SCX10 Essential Mods

[6sharky9]

Lets take a look at an RTR and vote on what mods you feel the RTR needs most to improve its stock performance.

List what you feel it NEEDS and a quick explanation on how it will improve its performance.

I will create a point system for each mod suggested and keep it updated.

This should help newcomers decide on what they should replace or "NEED" based on function and facts to get the most from their truck



Aluminum suspension links..+3
Aluminum Steering links..+2
Under drive rear diff..+2
Overdrive front diff..+1
Aluminum C hubs..+1
High steer Knuckles..+1
High torque servo..+1
Beadlock wheels..+1
Wheel weights..+1
Tires..+1
Motor Pinion..+1
Upgrade drive shafts..+1
Upgrade trans gears..+1
2s lipo..+1
3s lipo..+1
Front mounted battery (Rubicon specific )
BEC..+1
Lower Center of gravity (COG)..+2
Electronics relocation..+1

[forty2]

For my Honcho I think the single largest improvement has to be underdriving the rear diff. Helps with trail turning radius and it's propensity to roll over backwards on steep grades was cut significantly.

[Reaxion911]

Absolute essential: Relocate battery to the front of the chassis. Fine thread screws and locktight in the steering knuckles and where the c-hubs screw into the axle housing. Aluminum rear lower links. All others can be plastic but those just twist up like crazy under any load. Longer screws with backing nuts to go through the servo horn, into the tie bar, and at the ends of the tie bar to stop them from wiggling out every half hour Also a 15-16 tooth pinion to keep the motor alive. Those are essential up grades everything else can be improved as it breaks but these things must be done if you want to put hours on your truck.

Best performance improvement: high torque servo (0251mg savox is best budget choice by far) Adding a bec. Overdrive front or underdrive rear or both. Aluminum c-hubs and steering linkage and axial or vanquish high steer knuckles. Wheel weights. Mip drive shafts or sleeve the inside of you stock male ends with aluminum tubing. Good 2s or 3s lipo. Dual brushed motors( personal opinion but would never go back to a single brushed motor setup gains far outweigh minus's) robinson racing steel main and idler trans gears. 70% droop setup( low center of gravity with just as much clearance as high sprung setup), and tires best suited for your terrain. That should cover it. I purposely left out all "bling" upgrades

[rcpilotjr]

My personal list of ESSENTIAL upgrades/modifications: Battery forward, aluminum steering links, aluminum lower links, beadlocks. In my honest opinion, those are the only modifications and upgrades COMPLETELY necessary. In the 8-9 months I owned my Dingo I never had driveshaft problems and am having no problems out of my Honcho so far. If anything, I'd recommend modifying the stock shaft as described in many other threads.

[raceeng18]

Replacing the plastic tie rod and drag link. Allows rig to go where you point it.
Lowering the center of gravity. Relieves frustration and limits roll overs.
Getting rid of large heavy mah batteries that are mounted up high. Use smaller more powerful batteries. See #2 above.
When you do decide to upgrade, buy the good stuff, ONCE. Saves sanity and gets rid of having to do it twice. More time for running your rig.

[soundmaster]

My mods so far:

1) Place battery where esc was -> place esc above servo
2) stiffen up steering link with carbon rods
3) Install 4 Link in the front -> drive shaft is rubbing on 3-link

-> todo: Replace links with aluminium rods