I'm confused need help please help me seriously not getting it

[kgb424]

can some one please help me figure out the length I need for front and rear upper links, and I did search on here didn't get a straight answer, my SCX10 is 12.3'' wheel base, with a Jeep Rubicon body. and the problem the rear axle is not centered in the wheel well, like in the picture, same with the front its not centered either. I'm using this link setup out what I got laying around

Front
upper 91mm
lower 98mm

rear
upper 98mm
lower 106mm

?????? do the rod ends size make that much difference in the link lengths
online at Axial the kits show AX8005 number #1 on the parts mold, which I don't have and if your search the part number it doesn't match or be found, so what rods are you supposed to use to get the right lengths eye to eye. ?????

Cause I don't get it I looked on line and in three of the SCx10 kits the use plastic links part number AX80043 part 3# on the mold piece for the rear and the front has the Y link thing

I don't have the plastic link or the Y link thing to figure out the length they are in MM's

so can some please tell what length of uppers I need, for the front and rear, using dinky 4 link axle trusses and traxxas rods with metal pivot balls.

[6sharky9]

theres some thread on here with the correct answer to lengths but its not really the best in terms of pinion angles...they can use some improvement..so basicly the length will be slightly longer than stock to raise the pinion angles alittle higher to get a better driveline angle...most make their own links on here as its really inexpensive and you can make your own lengths to gain more wheel base or shoreten it or just improve pinion angle..Someone with the stock length numbers will chime in if they see this im sure.

[kgb424]

don't have a problem making my own links need the lengths in mm's eye Got 8/32 all thread and 3/16'' tubing again need links lengths in MM's eye to so the axles are centered in wheel wells.

[kgb424]

so how do you lengthen or shorten a wheel base do you lengthen the uppers and shorten the lowers or vice versa or do you shorten or lengthen both, don't have links to get right setup need lengths to buy the right ones. can some please help me out

[k7zpj]

The lower links determines the wheelbase and position of axles. The upper links determine how far the axle is clocked.

Changing just the upper links won't fix the alignment of the axle.

From the picture the body looks shifted forward. Are you using the offset body port for the rear body mounts?


Stock Eye to Eye Measurements

Front Lower 122 mm
Front 4-liink Upper 104mm -- I am using 120mm

Rear Lower -- 130 mm
Rear 4-link Upper -- 119 mm -- I am using 130 mm

[kgb424]

No normal Scx10 body posts, didn't know there are rear off set body posts, the fronts are spaced wider cause of the GCM motor forward kit, here is a picture of my axle angles the front one is first then rear in the second

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by kgb424

?????? do the rod ends size make that much difference in the link lengths

absolutely !

the original link/rod ends are near about 10mm
measured from the eye to their opposing shank end.
That means 20mm in total is added to a single link rod length.

using other mfgr'd brand link ends will vary in that over-all length...
so that difference needs be taken into account along with the rod/link lengths.
In that case... if the rod ends are longer then the originals...
then the link rods themselves would need be shorter then original.

I think the Revo rod ends are nearer to 15mm, eye to shank end.
But I don't use those... so can't be sure... could be more.

The rear axle can be rotated up/rearward without issue...
meaning both upper and lower link length could technically be the same.
The proper D shaft pinion angle is what will dictate that.

Rotating the axle housing's up/forward (frnt) or up/rearward (Rr.)
can be helpful with D shaft's pinion angle...
The upper link rod lengths will control how far the axle housing is rotated forward.

But the front axle is different deal then the rear...
And tho' it may correct and better align the D shaft's pinion angle...
It can poorly affect steering response... if rotated too far up/forward.

The difference is... the front axle has steering C hubs and knuckles
that establish the amount of caster axis in the steering.
A certain amount of caster is required in the front... to offer good/responsive steering.
If the king pin or C hubs are nearly vertical...
then there will be too much scrub and the steering will be less defined.

In other words... some negative castor (King Pin/C hubs leaned rearward slightly)
needs remain at the front axle to offer good steering.
This becomes even more apparent with higher speeds.

Rotating the front axle forward, more then what is intended
will make the steering knuckles lose their preset caster settings.
It also tends to push the steering servo forward...
and that will interfere with the forward crossmember.

To fix those issues...
One will need purchase the aft. mkt. alloy C hubs and St. knuckles
that compensate with more caster built in. (8* more to be exact)

Once the upper links are lengthened properly...
that caster will not remain at the 8* setting designated by the Chubs...
But that doesn't matter...
As long as the King pin/C hub angle has some neg. caster... should be fine.

The fix for the servo hitting the forward crossmember...
is simply to re-establish the steering servo farther rearward.

I shaved off some material from the plastic servo mounts.
this allowed me to gain enough room to clear the forward crossmember.
Some others either removed the crossmember altogether...
Or notched it out a little where interference occurred.

I prefer the shaving of the servo mounts instead.

If you use the stock 12.3" designated rod lengths...
then you will also need take into account the lengths
of the link rod ends. And realizing that the originals were 10mm (X2) in length.

[kgb424]

OK I switched out the rod ends, with some axial ones, So like k7zpj said, I made the rear using the right rods ends and a 106mm link there very close to 130mm's in length now, so the rear now has 130mm links upper and lower, the front I used the right rod ends and 98mm links so they are 120mm in length, and the upper I put a nut in there so its 122mm long. got a hard pan kit so only need one front upper, here are some pics it still looks a little off cause I need the rear offset body posts, too make it look right, before the wheel base was close 13'' before, now its closer 12 1/4'' wheel base then before. here are some pics of my changes looks better. need the rear offset posts cause the body needs to go back

but look how the axles are clocked the steer servo arm is now at weird angle so need fix that some how. so I still don't think its right.

[kgb424]

Some please tell me wtf why are the axles so clocked, need help cause I don't get it.

[kgb424]

here are the rods ends the first pic are Traxxas changed them out to the shorter Axial ones I had left over, you can see there shorter, so it must be the rod ends or some thing I'm just not getting.

[Stuck]

Your gonna have to shorten the top links to rotate that axle back. Rotate it just enough to point the pinion shaft at the trans. that should give you good angle and clearance

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by kgb424

Some please tell me wtf why are the axles so clocked, need help cause I don't get it.

You need to shorten up the upper links. I have the Axial plastic 4-link truss. The difference in link lengths is probably due to the truss you are using.

[kgb424]

I got the GCM motor forward kit, with there CMS and there hard pan bar kit, so the front is three link because of it, using a Dinky four link axle truss cause you still need mount the top link on the front axle, the rear is a Dinky four link axle truss also, so how much shorter of links do I need.

would it make it easier, if I put the stock plastic four link truss on the rear axle. the front axle I can't use it, cause the GCM hard pan bar mount wraps the axle in between the shock hangers.

I also have a extra HandBrothers axle truss but again the GCM hard pan bar mount is in the way.

and can't use the stock Y link thing cause it has to be three linked. and they tell you to remove it, in both the GCM kit and the Handbrothers Cms with hard pan bar, own both and have installed them both and they both say to use one upper link. making it a three link.

So I know the hard pan bar eliminates the bump steering, so its staying

got to figure out how much shorter cause I'm out of links got to go the hobby store and change them out until looks right.

so the Dinky axle truss has got to stay also

[GGA]

I had this problems before when I first changed to 4link set up. so, basically the upper links have to be shorter than lower links

here's my set up ...

rear upper link = 120mm center eye to eye
rear lower link = 130mm center eye to eye

front upper link = 115mm center eye to eye
front lower link = 120mm center eye to eye

well, the rear pretty good, diff/axles not clocked. I'm pretty happy with it. but the front because the length of upper link only 5mm shorter than the lower, the diff/axles still bit clocked



well, I'm thinking about changing the front upper and lower links as same as the rear set up but I worry that I'm gonna extend the wheel base by 10mm

will see what happen and I'll report back later (when I receive my new links)

cheers

[kgb424]

I hope I don't have to piece them together, cause Axial sells posts 10mm to 70mm increments of 5mm's then they sell links in 106,98,94,91,87.5,73 mm lengths so I don't know what length I need, unless somebody here knows what size I need

[Stuck]

Originally Posted by kgb424

I hope I don't have to piece them together, cause Axial sells posts 10mm to 70mm increments of 5mm's then they sell links in 106,98,94,91,87.5,73 mm lengths so I don't know what length I need, unless somebody here knows what size I need

just take off your front link.
rotate your axle to the location you want
measure the I to I length then minus the length of the rod ends your using and buy the length link closest to what you need. Chances are you will have to modify it a bit

[kgb424]

Hey GGA so you are using a 98mm link with axial rod ends for the upper rears, I got that length buy using a 98mm link and two axial rod ends, so the fronts need to be the 94mm with axle rod ends and maybe a 2mm spacer like in the instructions of a Scx10 Rubicon. need to buy 94mm links and some 2mm spacers and see

[kgb424]

hey Stuck don't have any calipers and suck at math and don't know how to convert inches to MM's only got a tape measure being pricing calipers going to pick some up soon.

[Stuck]

Originally Posted by kgb424

hey Stuck don't have any calipers and suck at math and don't know how to convert inches to MM's only got a tape measure being pricing calipers going to pick some up soon.

then use your tape measure and take it to the HS with you and measure the metric links. gotta do what you gotta do

[AX10wannabe]

i basically just wing my measurements.. i have to make some longer links for my crew cab, was supposed to have a 14" wheelbase but when i marked the holes for the body they seemed to move so it will be a tad shorter than that so i will take a ruler, flip the rig over, put a rod end on the end of a 12" length of 8/32" all thread (and its tight(and bolt it on to the spot where you need it. take another rod end and bolt it on the other side now hold all thread up between the rod ends, hold everything together and make a mark on the all thread with a marker, make sure you mark it so the rod end would be tight....... pull it apart so all thread is in your hand, now cut it at the mark, this will get you fairly close. assemble the link and put on rig, with body on, its better to cut the all thread a little too long then it is too short.. if you only need to lengthen or shorten it by like 3mm you can tighten or loosen the rod end. once you have the length where you want it, take link off the rig and measure for tubing, cut the tubing add it to link and put it back on the truck.. it sounds like a lot of work but it only takes a few minutes per link.

this method hasnt let me down yet, im terrible at math too but i hate the metric system so i use inches.. if you want to convert inches to mm's go to google and type in metric conversion chart or something along those lines and it will bring you to a chart where you can type in the inches you know and it will convert it to mm's for you or the other way around, mm's to inches.. its the way i do it because i've been through hell dinking around with math my whole life