ok I give up can some please help me

[kgb424]

I got a 12.3'' wheel base honcho, and I having a problem, I got a hand Brothers Custom Servo Mount with the hard pan bar, and the Hand Brothers Axle Truss, and you need make the front, 3 link I get that, the problem is I need a link that goes from the skid plate to the axle truss, I got Axial AX8005 Rod Ends, the short ones part number #1 and a 87.5mm, 91 mm, 94mm, and they are not the right length cause the bind the driveshaft and don't clock the axle, can some one please tell what size length link you used, to make a three link in the front and clock the axle is the axle truss supposed to rest on the shock, like in the pictures if does its a bad drive shaft angle. if not touching the angle gets better but don't have the right link length. confused on how to clock the axle. and if open the gap between the shock and truss it changes the drive shaft angle, so I'm not getting it.

[kgb424]

still can't get the right link length, can some please help me out and tell what length of link you used for upper front one, I just read thru 6 pages of the Handbrothers CMS installation directions and no mention of upper front link length, so please help me out.

[FATBOYrs10]

man, don't take this statement wrong, just clock the axle to where you want it/or works best, measure from mount hole to mount hole, then make a link that length.

[FATBOYrs10]

and it looks like once you do get the axle clocked where you want it, you're gonna need to swap sides with your C's so that your knuck's are back parallel with the ground.

[srt6]

are you talking about how you knuckles aren't straight, looks like your c-hubs are on the wrong side. put the left on the right and the right o the left

[kgb424]

no I'm talking about on the Hand Brothers axle truss there a circular groove where the shock is, my comment was with the shock touching the truss it is a bad angle on the front drive shaft, it will not spin freely, and there is drag and it is binding, but if you put a small gap between the shock and the truss, it changes the angle of the drive shaft and it spins freely, no drag, its not binding.


That's what I meant by clocking the axle, it changes the angle of the drive shaft correct ???? so by clocking it or creating a gap, I unbound the front drive shaft, that's all I was trying to do,is get the front drive shaft to spinning freely and use the right link length for the third upper front link to get it at the right angle.

[TacoCrawler]

^ yeah yer C-hubs look to be mounted to the wrong sides.
and look as if they need to be swapped.

But I'm guessing, that still won't correct fully,
if the axle is rotated forward slightly.
8* C-hubs would help a bunch after the axle is clocked (rotated forward).
The 8* C-hubs would help re-establish the caster nearer to it's original specifications/settings.

Think of it in this way...

The lower link lengths control (set) the wheel base. (ie: 12.3")
The upper links control (set) the axle's castor angles (frt or Rr rotation).
The C-hubs set the King Pin angles (caster)
But if the axle is rotated forward 2mm... that can be lost.
And that's where 8* C-hubs come in handy.
Ideally the top of the King pin/C-hub should be angled rearward slightly
This will offer better steering response and the least amount of tire scrub.

Try inserting a 2mm L X 6mm Dia. spacer on the upper links
^ (between the link rod and end/use 3mm thread-all of appropriate lengths)
Adding this 2mm should rotate the axle forward enough
that the drive shaft's pinion angles are more inline.

This forward rotation of the front axle...
tends to push the servo forward some too...
this can cause an interference at the forward
cross member.
The easiest fix is... to shift the servo rearward
just a little to clear that cross member.

I shaved a little material off the servo horn mounts..
Thus allowing the servo to mount a little farther rearward.
Was just enough to obtain that needed clearance.

Don't forget to swap C-hubs left-right... first

[srt6]

when u located....minden la?

[kgb424]

Minden Nevada south of Reno

[Arnel]

Like fatboyrs10 said, measure the length when the axle is clocked where you want it and make your own link with some aluminum tube and the rod ends

[kgb424]

I got 98mm lower fronts, lower rear are 106mm, upper rear are 98mm with Axial AX80005 number #1 rod ends, the wheel base 12.3'' like it should be, once I figure out the upper front link length, My other Scx10 is 12.3'' wheel base with the same links and rod ends setup but has the GCM motor forward kit with transfer case, and their CMS and with hard pan, and the upper front link is a 94 mm with the same rod ends and the axles are clocked front and rear, with no drive shaft binding, trying to do the same with the second one but they are different Cms and the hard pan bars and mounts are different. I'll figure it out when I got more time.

[kgb424]

I made my own third upper link, out some 8/32 all thread and some 3/16 aluminum tubing and a new hard pan bar out of the all thread and tubing. I was able to clock the front axle a little more than it was.