servo horn+ steering linkage help???

[oliver67969]

ok so on my scx10 I'm runnin stock wraith 2.2 so they are fairly tall and I've installed I believe they are integy knuckles (I can't remember...) anyway, also I have aluminum link set for steering. Well I just got my axial servo horn in and its just a standard axial 25t horn for savox an futab servo's. Mine being a savox 1268sg if it matters but my issue is my upper steering link touches my lower link with the horn... I moved the lower on the under side of my knuckles and hits whatever I'm trying to traverse before my tires touch... It adds a whole new rule of picking your line of attack but I'm afraid of when I'm laying into it ultimately its gonna snap or bend then... But I would like it to be right... Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks
Troy

[Nix951980]

A pic would help, is your tie rod "lower link" mounted on top of your steer arms? if so try mounting them under the arms for better clearance.

[Nix951980]

Originally Posted by Nix951980

A pic would help, is your tie rod "lower link" mounted on top of your steer arms? if so try mounting them under the arms for better clearance.

Whoops, I see you have it under your knuckle arms, is your lower link straight or bent? in other words if you used the stock lower link would it still rub?

[Johnnysplits]

Yeah throw a pic up so we can see exactly what's happening.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by oliver67969

my issue is my upper steering link touches my lower link with the horn...

If I'm understanding correctly...

what I did was...

in the RTR kit there should be spare parts trees.
In those are some small plastic posts (maybe 2mm tall X 6mm dia. X 3mm ID)
^ they look more like plastic washers then posts.

I used those to space up the servo tray.
They were sandwiched between the tray's underside..
and the top of the post(s) rising off the axle.
The servo tray mounting screws were long enough to be reused.

I only added the post spacers to the two forward axle posts
because I have a 4 link front
and it has no built-in rearward post like the 3 link bracket has.

Installing those two little spacers raises the servo's tray...
it also raises the servo and it's horn,
thus reducing the chance of interference between the servo horn/drag link
and the primary steering link.

My primary link rod and drag link are still mounted
to the top side of the steering knuckle arms.
And horn/link clearance is no longer of issue.

The drag link also nets more angle when attached
from the servo horn's arm to the top of the steering knuckle arm.

* Raising the servo tray more then 2mm may be of issue. :dunno:
as the servo must clear the inner frame rails when
the suspension is compressed/articulated at angle.
The servo can be shifted slightly left to right.
centering the servo between the frame rails
(and on its mounting plate) may be critical
in eliminating or minimizing any servo - frame interference.

* note
there are notches in the lower portion of the frame rails
to allow for the servo ears to clear the frame better.
But raising the servo will make those tolerances even closer.
Grinding a little material off the servo's upper /outer corners
of the servo's mounting ears may be helpful.

Equal/full compression to both CO's is not an issue
even if the battery tray is mounted directly above the servo.
There will still be dead air space between the servo's body
and the battery's tray (plate).

If your battery tray is mounted at the rear...
then concern for battery tray clearance at the front
would be moot anyways.

If using the stock plastic steering link rods...
I would replace those with alloy links asap.
Mostly because the plastic crap is... crap.
And flexes way too much.

* edit: On 2nd thought...
prolly not a good idea ^ if still using the original AS2 servo (RTR).
that servo, tho' metal geared...
has plastic bushings (X2) supporting the output gear shaft.
Replace those plastic bushings with ball race bearings...
then it might survive a wee bit longer.



edit:

pics might better explain...

Detail of the added spacer(s)...



Over-all servo horn/link assembly view....

[oliver67969]

Awesome I really appreciate it guys. I would have thrown a pic up but I'm on here with mobile phone and it is temperamental... I got that issue squared away. Now... I got a new servo savox 1268sg and in an earlier thread I was have lack of and no power issues... Well EVERYONE said if no bec? Get bec! Well I got one cc 10amp bec. Watched a bunch of videos on install plus done what the instructions said (disconnect red wire from esc to receiver) and it just wants to beep over an over an over... No power to esc, ill unplug bec , plug it back and servo will shutter.... I'm at a loss and can't find anything to cover this. Please help �� if its not one thing its another...

[TacoCrawler]

Your BEC power is supplied directly from the primary battery (spliced in) ?

Your BEC is plugged into the RX's battery input slot ?

Is that plug positioned in the Batt. slot correctly ?

The batt. input +pos/-neg should be clearly marked.

The Batt. plug is inserted fully to the right. (all plug grounds are to the right)

Batt. slot pin order...
signal (left and unused) +pos (center) and -neg (right)

* The third pin on the left of the RX's batt. slot (signal input) is left unused.

Yes the "red" wire must be removed from the esc's input plug
going to the RX.

The RX can not operate properly if it were receiving power from both
the ESC and BEC.

[oliver67969]

I took out the pos. Pin from the esc to the receiver. I'm using the stock receiver and looking at it with the plug area on the left and the rest of the rectangle to the right its in the bottom slot. I plasti dippeped the receiver so I can't see the lables but its also the only slot that I get any response. I connected the the bec directly below my plug for the actual battery connection. I'm still running tamyia plug and couldn't get it apart so I spliced it right below the plug. The bec has a solid green light. When I connect the battery the receiver blinks red once the servo straightens the tires once and then that's all... No motor turn nothing...

[TacoCrawler]

I believe that for the RX's case to be viewed legibly...
the RX's upright position would locate the plug inputs
to the right on the RX's pc board.

Then all the grounds to those inserted plugs
should be on the farthest right side (pin).
This means the center pin is the +pos (red wire)

The BEC's plug should also be positioned to the right side.
Using those two pins. Center pin = +pos, right side pin = -neg.

The pin at the left should be "signal"

[oliver67969]

I just got it. Thanks TacoCrawler! You breaking it down for me helped alot. Ibhad to take all my plasti dip off the receiver and I dunno what i did different when I hooked it back up but it turned right on... Thanks guys an the forum for the info and place to find the info!!
Troy

[bigdogs21ford]

I will be doing this very set up soon with the BEC.
Do you know the default voltage for CC BEC right out of the package?
Or do I absolutely need the link before using the BEC?

[TacoCrawler]

glad you got it worked out

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by bigdogs21ford

I will be doing this very set up soon with the BEC.
Do you know the default voltage for CC BEC right out of the package?
Or do I absolutely need the link before using the BEC?

I believe the voltage default for the AR-3
is set to 4.8v

Unfortunately...
the link will be needed to make voltage adjustments...
unless you know of someone who has the link
and will assist in adjusting yours for you.

I adjusted mine to operate at 6v (but it can go higher)

* be sure your RX can handle the increased voltage.

I don't recollect offhand what the max allowable volts might be
for Axial's AR-3 RX. ( if that's what you're using ? )

but because my AR-3 hasn't fried set at 6v.... I know that works

I know some folk like to use 7.4v if they have a higher demand steering servo.
Some high torque servos will need 7.4v to operate at its max efficiency.
so be sure the RX will handle the increase in voltage, that you wish to use.