aftermarket axles and housings

[pickled]

Hi just wanted to get some thoughts on axles and housings! I can't post pics yet so I'll post the pics of the axles when I've reached that ability.

[sally1800]

Stock axial work perfect

[pickled]

I'm talking about hop ups, Don't like the plastic housings and wanted to see how many people run aftermarket diffs and what brands

[allanon1965]

Quote: Stock axial work perfect




I have to disagree, Both of my stock axial plastic housings are warped, when put together the action is rough. I did not by any means overtighten them either, after 30 years as an ASE Certified Master Auto Technician I know not to overtighten things.

I may have gotten a bad set or something, but I replaced the rear first with a VP housing and its as smooth as butter. I know VP is expensive and I am not pushing them on anyone.

I also know that the 2 piece design is not a good design in my opinion. I know there will be many who say they have no problems with them, but that is not my experience. I went VP so I would only have to buy it once.

I am not a VP fanboy by any means, I simply compared different manufacturers and their products and decided VP was the best value for MY dollar...by the same token I wont buy VP CMS and Panhard for my SCX10 because its too high priced and I dont like the design as much as the one from RC4WD, again, compared several and decided the RC4WD design was better for MY needs on the CMS and Panhard...

[pickled]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

Quote: Stock axial work perfect




I have to disagree, Both of my stock axial plastic housings are warped, when put together the action is rough. I did not by any means overtighten them either, after 30 years as an ASE Certified Master Auto Technician I know not to overtighten things.

I may have gotten a bad set or something, but I replaced the rear first with a VP housing and its as smooth as butter. I know VP is expensive and I am not pushing them on anyone.

I also know that the 2 piece design is not a good design in my opinion. I know there will be many who say they have no problems with them, but that is not my experience. I went VP so I would only have to buy it once.

I am not a VP fanboy by any means, I simply compared different manufacturers and their products and decided VP was the best value for MY dollar...by the same token I wont buy VP CMS and Panhard for my SCX10 because its too high priced and I dont like the design as much as the one from RC4WD, again, compared several and decided the RC4WD design was better for MY needs on the CMS and Panhard...

Thanks allanon
that's also what I've been thinking and it would also help with unsprung weight adding to a lower CG. I've been looking on eBay and I'm tending towards the scale Taiwanese diffs that look like they have drum brakes on the ends I'll post some pics once I reach the post quota

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by pickled

Thanks allanon
that's also what I've been thinking and it would also help with unsprung weight adding to a lower CG. I've been looking on eBay and I'm tending towards the scale Taiwanese diffs that look like they have drum brakes on the ends I'll post some pics once I reach the post quota

Most just add weights on the inside of the wheels to gain weight below the chassis ...I have 14oz of weight total in my wheels.

If youre wanting the aluminum axles for looks that's fine but most will tell you unless you buy the expensive VP or currie sets youll be wasting your money.

Unless youre putting some serious serious power through your rig the stock housings should be more than enough...theirs plenty of upgrades to beef them up if that's what you are concerned about...They help you slide over rocks as well being plastic over the aluminum getting caught and gouged making it harder to get out of the situation.

Either way. do it how you want but just offering some options to consider.

If you do get the lower cost aluminum axles let us know how they hold up.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Most just add weights on the inside of the wheels to gain weight below the chassis ...I have 14oz of weight total in my wheels.

If youre wanting the aluminum axles for looks that's fine but most will tell you unless you buy the expensive VP or currie sets youll be wasting your money.

Unless youre putting some serious serious power through your rig the stock housings should be more than enough...theirs plenty of upgrades to beef them up if that's what you are concerned about...They help you slide over rocks as well being plastic over the aluminum getting caught and gouged making it harder to get out of the situation.

Either way. do it how you want but just offering some options to consider.

If you do get the lower cost aluminum axles let us know how they hold up.

I used to add weights to my wheels but it was harder on my drivetrain with the increase in rotating mass, both acceleration and braking. It takes more energy to get a heavier rotating mass going and also more to stop it..I am going with knuckle weights or a similar weight design as long as its not increasing my rotating mass..

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I used to add weights to my wheels but it was harder on my drivetrain with the increase in rotating mass, both acceleration and braking. It takes more energy to get a heavier rotating mass going and also more to stop it..I am going with knuckle weights or a similar weight design as long as its not increasing my rotating mass..

I totally agree with that..Just not much room on the axles and when you go mudding you have more in the way of getting through the mud..Sort of like pushing your way through the snow with a plow on your truck vs no plow...just makes it harder to push through with more sticking up on the axles in my opinion...Most over power anyway and upgrade so its not such a strain on anything for most to just add the weight in the wheels.

Im only using a 2s with an all stock drivetrain and its held up pretty well so far with almost one pound added to the rotating mass.

[Norton]

How do you figure there is more in the way? The axle weights sit inside the wheel hubs. They do not stick out in any way to give you a snow plow effect.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Norton

How do you figure there is more in the way? The axle weights sit inside the wheel hubs. They do not stick out in any way to give you a snow plow effect.

I mustve been thinking about the cheaper way with like adding wheel weights to the top of the stock housing.

Out of curiosity what set is that on the stock axles?...how much weight can your get there with that?

[Norton]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

I mustve been thinking about the cheaper way with like adding wheel weights to the top of the stock housing.

Out of curiosity what set is that on the stock axles?...how much weight can your get there with that?

Kind of depends on your wheel off-set but here you go: Axial SCX10, Blue Monkey RC

They make them for high steer and stock axles.

[6sharky9]

I checked it out...They are 2 oz weights each at 45 dollars a pair...To get the weight I have now of 3.5oz in each wheel id have to buy 2 sets of fronts and rears..and at $45 a set it would run me $180 dollars for 8 weights..Not something that would interest me personally..Thanks for the link though

[pickled]

cool great info! I have plastic phobia comes from my drift chassis! I will be building my kit stock to start with to check out performance with a 21.5T BL motor and the stock 4 links!

just out of curiosity how many posts till I can link pics

[6sharky9]

get yourself a photobucket account..can post through that..just copy and paste your link...the pic will show on the screen

[pickled]

I have an ImageShack account that I used for my pics on Driftmission's forum etc so I know about posting pics just wondering what the post count needs to be before you can post pics as at the moment I can't post attachments

[pickled]

these are the diffs I was mentioning earlier



Ok looks like I reached the quota

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by pickled

cool great info! I have plastic phobia comes from my drift chassis! I will be building my kit stock to start with to check out performance with a 21.5T BL motor and the stock 4 links!

just out of curiosity how many posts till I can link pics

I would highly recommend replacing the plastic links and especially the steering links...youll see what I mean when you get it.

Not hard to make some if you have at least a hacksaw, an 8-32 thread tap and some material.

I used 8-32 steel all thread and aluminum1/4" tubes with traxxas 5347 ends..but if I could do it over again I would use steel brake line as sleeves and not the aluminum...They bend up pretty easily...I have some links that look bent and they aren't really..just the tubes crushed on the all thread.

[6sharky9]

well nevermind...use the links in the pics..they look better..lol

That is really a sharp set up...whats that going for price wise?

[6sharky9]

You can post pics with 1st post...just through photobucket

[pickled]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

I would highly recommend replacing the plastic links and especially the steering links...youll see what I mean when you get it.

Not hard to make some if you have at least a hacksaw, an 8-32 thread tap and some material.

I used 8-32 steel all thread and aluminum1/4" tubes with traxxas 5347 ends..but if I could do it over again I would use steel brake line as sleeves and not the aluminum...They bend up pretty easily...I have some links that look bent and they aren't really..just the tubes crushed on the all thread.

I bought the Dingo Kit doesn't that come with the alloy steering and lower links as the instructions infer that?

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

well nevermind...use the links in the pics..they look better..lol

That is really a sharp set up...whats that going for price wise?

US$265

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

You can post pics with 1st post...just through photobucket

I tried to post pics of my drifters in the misc section last night and couldn't till a mod approved them?