First SCX-10 Build (Guidance Appreciated!)

[sdhsbaseball]

First off I want to say I have been reading a lot of great info on the forums and most of my questions have been answered just by searching!

Just want to run the build by you guys here since im a noob to crawling and still a noob to RC's in general.. (Got an Durtrax Evader ST a long time ago ran/run the heck out of it) So this is what I have on order right now:
SCX10 Rubicon Kit
HH BRXL
HH TorqueMaster Pro 540 30T
Hyperion 720i
Hyperion 3S Cx 4000 Mah
Hitec 7950TH
FlySky GT3C (Planning on hacking) Sent Overkill RC an email to see when the Flashing Kit will be back in stock
FlySky 6CH Rx
Hitec HPP-21 Servo Programmer
CC BEC & Link
ProLine Cherokee Body (Need to get extended posts from what I understand)

I have heard things like stronger trans gears and driveshafts might be needed with the 3S power, still need to read about those things, but is there anything else I might be missing? I know there probably is since there is still a bunch that I haven't read, so be gentle.

[4door5speed]

Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. The extended body post kit is listed in the notes on any site that sells the cherokee body. It's a axial part number and pretty widely available. I know someone will jump in with a number, I'm on my phone and can't search really well. Good luck with the build.

[optimusjoe]

Beadlock wheels!

[509hooligan]

I have ran my stock wb8 drive shafts on a 3 battery and a 35t pro tekin for a while now. I have broken one rear in a comp cause it was all bound up and I got trigger Happy (dumb move on my part) but other than that they hold up pretty well! Like Optimus said beadlock would be a good investment!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[sdhsbaseball]

Originally Posted by 4door5speed

Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. The extended body post kit is listed in the notes on any site that sells the cherokee body. It's a axial part number and pretty widely available. I know someone will jump in with a number, I'm on my phone and can't search really well. Good luck with the build.

Thanks much appreciated! The local hobby store had the Cherokee body and I have a 94 Grand Cherokee so its the closest I could find to my Jeep. Plus I wanted to have a body that I wouldn't mind "beating" up a little while the Rubicon body would be more of a show style scale body.

Originally Posted by optimusjoe

Beadlock wheels!

Good call, I will add that to the list! Thanks!

[CBR74]

The 4000 mah 3S will give you crazy run time but at the cost of a lot of added weight. Hyperion is also a little too proud of themselves in my opinion but buy whatever you are comfy with.

The servo programmer isn't a necessity and neither is the BEC for a high voltage servo like the 7950 (I think you meant 7950, not 7650?). You can run a separate 2S wired direct to a HV steering servo, no BEC required.

The Savox 1270 will give you comparable performance to the Hitec at 2/3 the price btw.

I'll third the beadlock wheels.

[sdhsbaseball]

Your right I did mean the 7950 not 7650 good catch, battery size wise would you recommend something in the 2000mah range or 3000mah?

Also if I understand you correct you are saying have a second battery just for the servo?

I will definitely look at that Savox servo thanks for the heads up!

[CBR74]

I run a 3S 2200 and it will give me 90 minutes of run time on mixed terrain. Yes, I am saying a dedicated battery for just the steering servo. I use a 2S 850 mounted on the rear cross brace just for my steering servo and lights:

[Hulldiver]

I run a 3s 3300mah SkyLipo with a Castle Creations BEC for the servo and reciever. I get about 3-4 hours run time normal crawling around but i drive pretty easy. I also have a stock driveshaft up front. No worries there. Just pay attention to what your doing. If a wheel gets bound up, dont put the hammer down. Thats when things go south, and start clicking or you get that revving noise with no movement.

[tech712]

Don't forget the locktite on the screw holding the driveline to the universals of the wb8's.

[dwblue00]

Don't forget aluminum c-hubs, knuckles, cvds, and beef tubes.

[cody426]

This will be a good build, but I noticed you had the proline Cherokee body. Just a FYI, I think the Cherokee body wheelbase is shorter than the honcho\rubicon (they are 12.3") and the G6 (which is 12"). You may need to get shorter links for the back, but I am not positive. I have a Cherokee body in my garage and if I remember correctly it was around 11.5" wheelbase. I did some quick searching, here is a link.

Proline Jeep Bodies?