SCX10 knuckles & C hubs

[tokdl]

Ok so I have a dingo kit that hasn't even hit the dirt yet and I noticed a hairline crack in both of the knuckles arms where the steering links mount. I know for a fact that I didn't over tighten these link ends as this can be a weak point and they will break and split, like what has just happened. Infact when I took them loose to inspect the screw was a bit loose for my taste.

Anyway, just wondering has this happened to anyone else before? So now that I'm forced to upgrade to new alloy knuckes, is there a preferance most of you use? I see so many diff. colors and designs, they all look like they would do the same thing except for the ones that may change caster I suppose. Same for the C hubs... any particular brand thats more "bad ass" than the others? I have my eye on the axial alloy replacement knuckels and C hubs.

Last question, what is a "lock out" that I keep reading about? I'm thinking this mounts on the rear axle housing and houses the axle shaft output shafts and bearings? I see this comes in alloy as well?

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by tokdl

Ok so I have a dingo kit that hasn't even hit the dirt yet and I noticed a hairline crack in both of the knuckles arms where the steering links mount. I know for a fact that I didn't over tighten these link ends as this can be a weak point and they will break and split, like what has just happened. Infact when I took them loose to inspect the screw was a bit loose for my taste.

Anyway, just wondering has this happened to anyone else before? So now that I'm forced to upgrade to new alloy knuckes, is there a preferance most of you use? I see so many diff. colors and designs, they all look like they would do the same thing except for the ones that may change caster I suppose. Same for the C hubs... any particular brand thats more "bad ass" than the others? I have my eye on the axial alloy replacement knuckels and C hubs.

Last question, what is a "lock out" that I keep reading about? I'm thinking this mounts on the rear axle housing and houses the axle shaft output shafts and bearings? I see this comes in alloy as well?

I just picked up some STRC knuckles and chubs. Color doesnt matter, just whatever fits your build. Vanquish makes some chubs that are designed to work with their 8 degree knuckles. Some knuckles are high steer, others are stock steering. The Axial units are as good as any

The lockout is on the rear axle. If you remove the lockout from the axle housing you can install chubs and knuckles to run 4 wheel steer. The lockout just replaces the knuckle and chub with an axle housing extender basically.

[tokdl]

Ah ok that sheds some light on things, thanks! I'm pretty much looking to keep the stock steering / suspension geometry so I think I'll just use the axial alloy stuff. Thanks for the response.

[marcb527]

Originally Posted by tokdl

Ok so I have a dingo kit that hasn't even hit the dirt yet and I noticed a hairline crack in both of the knuckles arms where the steering links mount. I know for a fact that I didn't over tighten these link ends as this can be a weak point and they will break and split, like what has just happened. Infact when I took them loose to inspect the screw was a bit loose for my taste.

Anyway, just wondering has this happened to anyone else before? So now that I'm forced to upgrade to new alloy knuckes, is there a preferance most of you use? I see so many diff. colors and designs, they all look like they would do the same thing except for the ones that may change caster I suppose. Same for the C hubs... any particular brand thats more "bad ass" than the others? I have my eye on the axial alloy replacement knuckels and C hubs.

Last question, what is a "lock out" that I keep reading about? I'm thinking this mounts on the rear axle housing and houses the axle shaft output shafts and bearings? I see this comes in alloy as well?

I've got a few sets of the HR Chubs and high steer they work awesome and were way cheaper than Axial at the time.

[tokdl]

I was really impressed by the options aftermarket suspension upgrades avail for the SCX10. Was a bit disappointed the factory ones failed so quickly, but I guess that's the reason for the overwhelming number of alloy replacement stuff

[TacoCrawler]

I broke several each plastic Chub/knuckles

finally changing those out to alloy.

I chose the factory original Axial 8* Chubs/knuckles.

Using these also allows me to rotate the front axle forward some
and still keep the King Pin angles positive.

There are plenty of other options regarding alloy Chubs/knuckles.
ie: hi-steer, ackerman type, etc.
But I'm fairly pleased as to how the Axial 8* Chubs/knuckles work.

I've been hammering on mine for quite some time now...
and they have proven themselves to be durable.

[meatmonkey]

The trick to keeping the stock plastic steering knuckles from breaking the steering arms off is to make a simple tie bar that goes from the upper kingpin bolt to the bolt through the steering arm. You need a bunch of washers/spacers, and to use a jam nut on the longer-than-stock upper kingpin bolt under the tie bar so you can keep the kingpin bolt snug without pinching the tie bar that needs to rotate with the knuckle.

I refuse to spend the money on stock AL replacements when I know the the XR conversion is so much better as I have it on one of three SCX's. Once the dogbones wear out I'll get the STRC Wraith knuckles/C-hubs, D-lux zero-slop kingpin bushings, and XR universal shafts to fix it all at once.

[tokdl]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

The trick to keeping the stock plastic steering knuckles from breaking the steering arms off is to make a simple tie bar that goes from the upper kingpin bolt to the bolt through the steering arm. You need a bunch of washers/spacers, and to use a jam nut on the longer-than-stock upper kingpin bolt under the tie bar so you can keep the kingpin bolt snug without pinching the tie bar that needs to rotate with the knuckle.

I refuse to spend the money on stock AL replacements when I know the the XR conversion is so much better as I have it on one of three SCX's. Once the dogbones wear out I'll get the STRC Wraith knuckles/C-hubs, D-lux zero-slop kingpin bushings, and XR universal shafts to fix it all at once.

I was sort of thinking this was my problem too, the stress put on the steering arm when steering force was concentrated directly on one point. I don't know much about this XR conversion you mention but I'll try and look it up. As I steer, the long bolt that ties both links together flexes and I think that's what broke my knuckles.

[tokdl]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I broke several each plastic Chub/knuckles

finally changing those out to alloy.

I chose the factory original Axial 8* Chubs/knuckles.

Using these also allows me to rotate the front axle forward some
and still keep the King Pin angles positive.

There are plenty of other options regarding alloy Chubs/knuckles.
ie: hi-steer, ackerman type, etc.
But I'm fairly pleased as to how the Axial 8* Chubs/knuckles work.

I've been hammering on mine for quite some time now...
and they have proven themselves to be durable.

Awesome! Really good to hear this, I plan on pounding on mine a bit and I'm trying to locate the weak points of the truck before I go on the trails and have to walk back with truck in hand due to a broken plastic part I "should" have replaced due to not reading up on it lol.

[alpine4x4]

I have beat the piss out of mine on the stock plastics. Links are metal. I have the alum units, but havent put them on yet.

[allanon1965]

do you have pics of these cracks? I have looked at both of mine and found there is mold marks and patterns in the plastic that look like cracks but really arent. You sure they are actual cracks? mine appear on the ends of the eye on the arm and the underside of the arms themselves..

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by alpine4x4

I have beat the piss out of mine on the stock plastics. Links are metal. I have the alum units, but havent put them on yet.

You haven't beat the piss out of it if you're still running stock plastic parts.

I have only ran plastic ax parts once and it ended badly for them. Axial stuff is nicely made. But considering they are the same price as VP yet just an alloy copy of the plastic crap they're replacing and not an improved design they are junk IMO.

The XR mod is the only good solution since it allows for better steering angles and stronger shafts than anything currently on the market for the ax/scx axles. When combined with VP wraith knuckles and whatever alloy wraith/xr compatible C hub you choose you have an extremely adjustable steering setup since the VP knuckles allow for steering arms on both sides of them.

[tokdl]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

do you have pics of these cracks? I have looked at both of mine and found there is mold marks and patterns in the plastic that look like cracks but really arent. You sure they are actual cracks? mine appear on the ends of the eye on the arm and the underside of the arms themselves..

Yes, I saw those too originally, these are fractures, I sent the worst one as it can be seen best. I'm almost wondering if I didn't tighten the link nuts enough, which stressed the steering arm to the point of which they split under stress of the king pin bolt moving back and forth.

[some87]

Since you are going to replace you everything you might as well go with the high steer c hubs since stock the scx10 doesn't have a good steering ratious. Also if you get any chubs and caster blocks get some cvd's so you can get the max out of any chubs you get.

[tokdl]

Originally Posted by some87

Since you are going to replace you everything you might as well go with the high steer c hubs since stock the scx10 doesn't have a good steering ratious. Also if you get any chubs and caster blocks get some cvd's so you can get the max out of any chubs you get.

LOL! Looking at CVD's and Hot racing Chubs as we type now!

[Odd-M]

I've got a set of HR chubs an knuckles. Problem seems to be the steering arms are too short. Tied rod hits the diff well before maximum steering angle. Will have to make a custom bent tie rod to make them work.

[tokdl]

Originally Posted by Odd-M

I've got a set of HR chubs an knuckles. Problem seems to be the steering arms are too short. Tied rod hits the diff well before maximum steering angle. Will have to make a custom bent tie rod to make them work.

Damn good to know this. I have a set of axial alloy chubs and knuckles on the way, but I'm looking at Vanquish 8 deg. set too.

[Cr00zah]

I prefer the Axial aluminum hubs and knuckles - the c-hub has 4 holes tapped so you can really fiddle with mounting and angles (in this case it's nice to have more options). But really all of them will do the trick.

[TacoCrawler]

hi-steer does not preclude that it's design
will offer more steering then others.

hi-steer simply relocates the primary steering link rod up higher.
This will raise the steering rod link higher
and should offer better clearance at the axles center chunk
thus allowing for less interference and more steering throw capability.
An additional benefit is...
that it re-positions the primary link rod up higher
and out of harms way from trail impacts.

But one cannot just bolt any alloy Chubs/knuckles on
and instantly net more steering.
There is a little more involved.

What I did to obtain more steering...

Axial 8* Chubs/knuckles

Primary center link rod ends were mounted to the outer holes
of the knuckle's arm.
(Axial 8* steering knuckles have longer St. arms then some others)

My primary link rod is bent to clear the axle's center chunk at max steering.
(I used a pre-bent Gelande steering link/rod)

Universal axles replaced the original front axle shaft assemblies.
(These will bind less at angle then the original designed axle shafts)

My axle housing was rotated forward about 4 mm at the upper link rods.
(the Axial 8* Chubs/knuckles can compensate for this altercation)

My steering servo was moved rearward slightly
to clear the interference at the forward cross member.
(alternatively that cross member could be trimmed slightly)
* (I don't recommend removing that unless the frame is boxed forward of that)

And lastly... (and extremely helpful)

I replaced the stock 2 ch Axial TX
for a FlySky GT3-C
and this TX allows for more adjustment of the steering/throw capabilities.

ie: endpoints, throw, etc.



* fyi for those contemplating hi-steer knuckles.

if one wishes to roll 2.2 wheels in combination...
there may be some tire interference issues associated.
Most 1.9 wheels will fit without any or with little tire interference.

The hi-steer arms (on the knuckles) seem to be a little short for my likes.
Shorter steering arms could reduce the steering's throw capability.

I have not over geared the front axle as of yet.
primarily because I want the same wheel speed at both axles
for the best climbing/crawling capability.

But if I wished to go faster or bash the trail and rocks...
then I would either over gear the front or under gear the rear axle.

^ edited... for correction (oops)

This altercation would be helpful to improving steering at speed.
But it won't improve the rig's climbing capability nor it's precision.

My modifications have netted me
with about a 3ft turning radius (circle).
This is on a high traction surface (concrete/asphalt)
in the dirt... that turning radius may be less or more.
And varies somewhat dependent on speed and tire traction/scrub.

The XR steering mod is nice... fairly easy...
but it also makes the axle's track width slightly wider.
I didn't want that so I ignored that mod.

Just realize...
it's going to cost some money and time...
regardless of which alloy Chubs/knuckles are selected.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I have not under geared the front axle as of yet.
primarily because I want the same wheel speed at both axles
for the best climbing/crawling capability.

But if I wished to go faster or bash the trail and rocks...
then I would either under gear the front or over gear the rear axle.

This altercation would be helpful to improving steering at speed.
But it won't improve the rig's climbing capability nor it's precision.

100% false information.

The rear axle under driven and/or the front being overdriven improves the crawling/climbing abilities as proven by everyone that has actually done it including myself and every comp rig I've seen with the capability to do so.

Underdriving the front and overdriving the rear is a drifting setup.