$400 to start with

[Tontos_Touch]

I have 400 to drop a little over (by $10 is ok) I would like a scx10 jeep wrangler rubi rpp has them for $299.99 I also need a good steering servo to go along with it something waterproof I was thinking the standard wp savox for $43.99, the question is where should I spend the rest of the money for the truck? I would like to buy all in one spot (RPP Hobby), if this isn't the right spot please move

Thanks
Tonto

[Perkolator]

with a limited budget, i would say find a used SCX10 platform to build off of. classifieds section is a good place to look, you can usually find a decent rig for $250-300 that already has a few upgrades and sometimes electronics included. A $400 used rig might have many more upgrades and will likely just need a radio and battery (or not).

seriously speaking, if you don't have any money to put into your RC, this is possibly not the hobby for you. it adds up quick, and if you break something it sounds like you'll have an expensive paperweight on your hands for a while until you can afford to fix it.

[Tontos_Touch]

No no I have been in the hobby for 18 years I just thought a budget build wouldn't be a bad idea buying parts here and there building up my truck like we all do

[Tontos_Touch]

I am open to more ideas some times we get blocked

[alpine4x4]

Do you have batteries and a charger yet?

Like said above best bet is to get a used ready to run rig in the classifieds ($250-350 easy) then put the rest of the money into batteries and a charger.

[Natedog]

As stated above and I would step up to a stronger servo than that, you can waterproof it yourself if it's going to see that much water.

[Tontos_Touch]

18 years in the hobby... I hope I would have a charger, lipos, radio, soldering station, and anything needed. As far as the servo it offers 233oz at 6v and yes I also have a bec laying around the hv of the wp savox is only 111oz at 7.4

[Adams]

Its usually about 500 to get up and running with batteries and charger, thats buying at local hobby shops. Sounds like you might already have a charger and batts. I usually buy all my stuff used. My first upgrades would be added weight to wheels, tires, beadlock wheels, foams, steering/links, servo on an rtr rig. Not in that order. I build my rigs to crawl, a stock jk rtr doesnt crawl good. They really only need the battery moved, a bit of weight in the wheels, good foams, scrubbed in tires, tuned suspension, paired with some driving skills and they crawl pretty good. hope this helps

[Tontos_Touch]

Thanks, I am getting the kit I like to build what I drive and I'm not a fan of the rtr plastic links all around, I have a tekin rs pro esc and a tekin 13.5 I plan on running, as for radio I'm running a dx3r, maybe this might help what I'm looking for

[T I N Y]

I think maybe you should have started with. I've been in the hobby for 18+ years. That would have done away with all the simple questions. After the kit and servo you've got like $50 or so left. I say.....Call up a buddy, get a couple pizzas grab a case of "adult beverages"...lol And start building..Upgrade as you go. No need to spend it all if not absolutely nessasary...But that's just me and my 2 shinny pennies. And if you don't partake in "adult beverages" grab some soda.......

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by Tontos_Touch

Thanks, I am getting the kit I like to build what I drive and I'm not a fan of the rtr plastic links all around, I have a tekin rs pro esc and a tekin 13.5 I plan on running, as for radio I'm running a dx3r, maybe this might help what I'm looking for

If you have an 8-32 tap and die you can go get some all thread and traxxas rod ends and build your own aluminum links. About $20 total. Would be an easy upgrade to a RTR and you get the stock electronics. THe stock servo is so so, the ESC is castle and not bad. The radio and receiver are decent units (although you probably have your own).

Or you could go with the kit, a SV3 ESC, a HH 35t motor, a Solar d772 servo (400oz), your own rx and tx and be good to go for under $400.

[tech712]

I like the pizza and beverage idea. Not much is needed after the servo. The kit should come with aluminum links iirc. A lot of the mods you can do for free. I used a couple of the spare servo mounts and the battery plate and relocated my battery across the frame at an angle. If I can find the pictures ill post em for ya. You have a good esc and motor combo and radio so im assuming you have a hotwire so you can fiddle with your esc settings.

[Tontos_Touch]

Yes the esc is has the drag brake set to crawler and I have took the time to set the radio up to the esc you just have to breath on the trigger to get the motor to start to spin, I was thinking of throwing a overdrive in the front of the truck for that little extra and there is always cold beer in the fridge

[tech712]

Another setting would be fwd/rev rather than fwd/brk/rev. With a 13.5 id turn down the timing advance and can timing advance. And dial in some turbo for when you need the extra wheel speed. I usually run the turbo delay as minimal as possible. Full throttle is rarely used except hill climbs and traveling to rhe next obstacle.
As far as overdriving the front goes, id undeedrive the rear instead. Has the same effect but also helps mitigate torque twist.

[Tontos_Touch]

Thanks for the help! And I turned down the triming a little before maybe ill do a little more, I was going to 180 and mirror the tranny also to help the torque twist so if I underdrive the rear then I should have almost none, An what way should the spur gear face if I do the 180 and mirror? If looking at the back of the truck the motor should be on the right side with the spur facing the rear... tranny on the left correct?

[tech712]

I might be the wrong guy to ask about mirroring. I ended up with my tranny center motor on the right and spur facing fwd. It worked out well for me to access my motor mount screws with my ball drivers easier. Had my battery mounted fwd of the tranny with the plate across the frame rails . Im trying to find pictures. My old account is unacessable so finding them has been tough.

[Tontos_Touch]

Ok thanks from the reading I'm doing I think I'm on the right path, I plan on doing the batt up front for weight and a little weight in the tires, I was thinking of doing the xr knuckles/chubs with xr modded shafts but I don't know this over the axial cvds

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by Tontos_Touch

Thanks for the help! And I turned down the triming a little before maybe ill do a little more, I was going to 180 and mirror the tranny also to help the torque twist so if I underdrive the rear then I should have almost none, An what way should the spur gear face if I do the 180 and mirror? If looking at the back of the truck the motor should be on the right side with the spur facing the rear... tranny on the left correct?

Trans on left of skid.Spur facing the back.Motor on the right front of the trans....

[tech712]

Thanks for clearing that up TINY. I had my trans appart several times to get my motor setup properly for the ax10 axles. The redline series has a little bit of advanced timing running fwd so simply going into the programing and switching rotation only left me with a slightly retarded fwd timing and a advanced reverse timing. Once I got the trans rotation reversal figured out it fixed my motor timing issues.

[Tontos_Touch]

Originally Posted by T I N Y

Trans on left of skid.Spur facing the back.Motor on the right front of the trans....

Thank you for your help I'm getting a lot betting understanding in setting up my truck