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03-15-2014, 09:32 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: nrh
Posts: 6
| scx10 rubicon rock bouncer
If anyone has any good tips on things to do or try let me know I want to get good weight distribution I have.a 5300 lipo battery in back And I was thinking since I have.a smaller 1800 lipo had pack strapping it to the front and lowering my lift level Ive got aluminum beedlocks already Im just looking for adding better weight and not flip as much Im looking.to take this a scale rockbouncer Help if you can thanks |
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03-15-2014, 10:08 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Staten Island
Posts: 114
| Re: scx10 rubicon rock bouncer
You have to take some time to reread what you write Mrmouse. Spell checks and all, just a little bit more of a coherent message would help you get the right answers. I don't know what a rock bouncer is but if you want better weight distribution you want the heavy stuff low in the center ideally. Adding weight toward the front helps climbing as well. There is a wealth of specific answers on this topic on this site as well as across the internet just takes some searching but the basic principles are what i said before.
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03-15-2014, 10:21 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Charleston South Carolina
Posts: 1,792
| Re: scx10 rubicon rock bouncer
A rockbouncer is what we call a rock buggy down here in the South. Although, it has become a common term. Anyway, For you to set up a "rockbouncer" correctly, it'll need to be bulletproof. - A 5300mah battery is just WAYYY too big. You'll have the run time, but you wont have the punch. - I would suggest a small 3S or 4S lipo with a high punch rating and a quality (Not Novak) sensored brushless system. - Hardened steel transmission gears and diff gears (Overdrive in the front), heavy duty lockers, and driveshafts will be able to keep up with the high power of the brushless system. - The key to keep it from tipping over is to have all of the weight as close to the ground as possible, or below the chassis natural centerline. Steel Beef Tubes, High quality Aluminum knuckles and chubs, High quality axle shafts, knuckle weights, etc., will all help you achieve that low Center of Gravity. Are you going to build some type of roll cage or are you just going to keep the Rubicon body and call it a rockbouncer....? |
03-15-2014, 10:33 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Central WA
Posts: 354
| Re: scx10 rubicon rock bouncer
A rock bouncer equals high power, big tires, beefy axles, and a reckless use of the skinny pedal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Nu...e&noredirect=1 A lot of them are sporting cages very similar to Tim Camerons designs. Get your weight down low, go brushless (Mamaba Max PRo with a Tekin or Novak sensored motor), build the ever living shit out of the drivetrain and lay on the throttle. |
03-15-2014, 10:42 PM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: nrh
Posts: 6
| Re: scx10 rubicon rock bouncer
Lentsnh2012 Ill keep alot of that in mind As if right now my budget is extremely cut to nothing but I did get to upgrade some key parts when I got the kit.Aluminum Trans metal gears aluminum hubs knuckles lockout all done. Im.trying to do some findings and videos on shocks but no luck on that so far. I was thinking I should go with a longer shock and replace all links What do you think about hub extenders |
03-15-2014, 10:52 PM | #6 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Charleston South Carolina
Posts: 1,792
| Re: scx10 rubicon rock bouncer Quote:
Actually, That's where you will be making your first mistake. Longer shocks can actually hurt you f they're in the stock mounting position. You want a shock that is mounted higher above the centerline of the frame so that you'll still have the travel but you'll also keep a low CoG. The links you can make with 8-32 all thread, Traxxas Revo rodends and brakeline to slide over the all thread. I would stay away from hub extenders. I personally don't care for them. If you want a little extra width, your best bet is to go with the Beef Tubes and the Wraith/XR10 chub and knuckle conversion. That'll give you about 3/4 wider stance. | |
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