What are the VERY FIRST things....

[SicJK]

.that need to be done with my new SCX-10 out of the box? or , better yet... What will break first?

[chevotafun]

Knuckles or c-hubs
driveshafts
Lockers
trans gears

It all depends on how rough you are with your truck and the power your running will have a huge factor in what will break.

[iFrog]

I will put link and steering servo on aluminum before nothing else

[alpine4x4]

The very first thing? I would put batteries in the radio and in the truck.

Honestly this topic has been absolutely beat to death. Search around to see your options and WHY you should do one before the other.

[Debonair]

Originally Posted by iFrog

I will put link and steering servo on aluminum before nothing else

1. Drive
2. I agree with iFrog - replace the plastic steering linkage right away.
3. Drive
4. Break
5. Upgrade
6. Repeat 3-6.

[Ohioskills]

get ride of the WIFE and clear your credit card

[WHITE-TRASH]

Big brushless power on 3s minimum. You'll find the weak points in short order.

[warren]

aftermarket lower suspension links and steering links. the scx10 is pretty tough out of the box other then those points.

[79SCX10]

First thing I would do is get links and MIP drive shafts or you can get a different brand as long as their metal. I think those are the only weak places on the scx10.

[Jus]

Bare minimum for me would be

Steering linkages
aluminum knuckles
3mm fine thread bolts on chubs, knuckles, and rear lockouts

Adjust slipper clutch to slip in a bind but not so much that it'll annoy you and just drive it.

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by 79SCX10

First thing I would do is get links and MIP drive shafts or you can get a different brand as long as their metal. I think those are the only weak places on the scx10.

Adding metal drive shafts only shifts the weak point to the outputs. Unless it has the stock steel outputs the metal shafts will snap the stock aluminum outputs like toothpicks. Once the outputs are OK you switch the weak point to the plastic trans gears which should be upgraded. If you're gonna do shafts you need:

1.)
MIP or Junfac Driveshafts

2a.)
Axial Steel Outputs
Hot Racing Hardened Steel Tranny Gears

or

2b.)
Robinson Solid Diff Gear with Outputs
Robinson Hardened Idler

Same thing with the metal links. Adding metal suspension links wont effect much in the way of rigidity. Add the metal steering links and you then lose the cushion the plastic parts provided the knuckles and C-hubs. You'll want to upgrade the knuckles and chubs as well as the servo horn to aluminum if you do the steering linkage. Once you do that you can start stressing the mounting holes on the chubs to the point beeftubes or a metal housing will be required to hold the chubs in place without stripping the screws out. Instead of going through all of this just do the XR-10 mod to gain more steering and skip the aluminum SCX10 stuff.

Or you can just run it as is and replace what you break, but this could mean very short runs when you do break stuff and long waits for the part to arrive only to do it all over again when you break the next weak link.

[79SCX10]

Originally Posted by alpine4x4

Adding metal drive shafts only shifts the weak point to the outputs. Unless it has the stock steel outputs the metal shafts will snap the stock aluminum outputs like toothpicks. Once the outputs are OK you switch the weak point to the plastic trans gears which should be upgraded. If you're gonna do shafts you need:

1.)
MIP or Junfac Driveshafts

2a.)
Axial Steel Outputs
Hot Racing Hardened Steel Tranny Gears

or

2b.)
Robinson Solid Diff Gear with Outputs
Robinson Hardened Idler

Same thing with the metal links. Adding metal suspension links wont effect much in the way of rigidity. Add the metal steering links and you then lose the cushion the plastic parts provided the knuckles and C-hubs. You'll want to upgrade the knuckles and chubs as well as the servo horn to aluminum if you do the steering linkage. Once you do that you can start stressing the mounting holes on the chubs to the point beeftubes or a metal housing will be required to hold the chubs in place without stripping the screws out. Instead of going through all of this just do the XR-10 mod to gain more steering and skip the aluminum SCX10 stuff.

Or you can just run it as is and replace what you break, but this could mean very short runs when you do break stuff and long waits for the part to arrive only to do it all over again when you break the next weak link.

I guess I never looked at it that way. Thanks for the information. Those were just the things I upgraded on my truck. I still have to replace the links, they bend under stress. Thanks

[Jus]

Originally Posted by alpine4x4

Adding metal drive shafts only shifts the weak point to the outputs. Unless it has the stock steel outputs the metal shafts will snap the stock aluminum outputs like toothpicks.

Going as far back as the Dingo kit, the outputs are steel.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by 79SCX10

First thing I would do is get links and MIP drive shafts or you can get a different brand as long as their metal. I think those are the only weak places on the scx10.

No. The transmission case and bearings along with the frame/crossmembers/shock towers are the only parts that probably won't need to be upgraded at some point. I actually am hesitant to include shock towers to that list since I just broke a stocker the other day.



My personal minimum upgrade list is a bit more extensive.

Metal gears in the trans and some sort of steel outputs.
steel drivelines, MIP's are damned tough.
XR mod with VP knuckles and c hubs.
Of course the pre requisite high torque servo (I dont run less than 400 oz ever)
metal links and tie rod/drag link

[79SCX10]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

No. The transmission case and bearings along with the frame/crossmembers/shock towers are the only parts that probably won't need to be upgraded at some point. I actually am hesitant to include shock towers to that list since I just broke a stocker the other day.



My personal minimum upgrade list is a bit more extensive.

Metal gears in the trans and some sort of steel outputs.
steel drivelines, MIP's are damned tough.
XR mod with VP knuckles and c hubs.
Of course the pre requisite high torque servo (I dont run less than 400 oz ever)
metal links and tie rod/drag link

Well sorry guys for my false information. I guess I didn't think it through. I never had anything break on my truck except the closest thing is the links because they bend. I started with MIP drive shafts because I heard that a lot of people were breaking the stock ones. So that's why I said links and driveshafts.
Thanks

[BuhBoombuh]

Beef tubes hands down

Knucks C-Hubs will gain more productive steering along with metal steering links.
Suspension links titanium or stainless steel ether way a huge upgrade.

Front axle CVD shafts, axle gears and lockers while your in there.

Beadlock wheel and weights and some good ol pitbull rubber.

Pick your poison

That's all I have done to my scx10 besides adding the products I design and make.

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by Jus

Going as far back as the Dingo kit, the outputs are steel.

If he buys a used rig he runs the risk of the crappy original outputs. Both of my used SCX10's had them. If he has a new kit or RTR he is good to go

[Jus]

Originally Posted by BuhBoombuh

Front axle CVD shafts, axle gears and lockers while your in there.

the stock diff gears and lockers will take a substantial amount of abuse with 1.9 tires on an scx. That is one of the last things I would worry about unless you're spending a lot of money and purposefully building a bulletproof truck from the start. That's been my experience anyway.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Jus

the stock diff gears and lockers will take a substantial amount of abuse with 1.9 tires on an scx. That is one of the last things I would worry about unless you're spending a lot of money and purposefully building a bulletproof truck from the start. That's been my experience anyway.

Same here. They certainly don't last forever but they will put up with some abuse for sure. The front axles on the other hand...

[SicJK]

WOW.. For a topic that has been "BEAT TO DEATH" I appreciate all the input...

So far I have only had the Bolt/Screw fall out of the Steering Linkage.... When I smashed it into the Hearth..hahaha

Thanks Again everyone.