Rubicon steering help.

[Satheddal]

I have been working on installing a lvl 3 cms kit and making some metal links on my rig. My problem is that my steering link from the servo to the knuckle is hitting the frame rail at full flex. I believe this is due to the fact that I had to install a spacer under the steering tie link to get it high enough to not hit the pumpkin at full steer. Does anyone have any clever ways of making the tie link not interfere with the pumpkin? I saw that my wraith came with some extra off center tie rod ends so y'all think that I might be able to modify those to work? I am using revo rod ends on 8-32 all thread with brake line skipped over for my links. Also I'm running a inverted servo with the lvl 3 kit utilizing the stock servo mounts.

I will try to get some pictures uploaded tonight after work.

[blknslvr]

When I was running a cms I found a servo horn from a hpi Baja I had and it worked great. It was longer then any of the normal servo horns for the 1/10 scales. I also put a little bend in the link just enough to clear the frame rail when the left side was full up. Here is a pic of the servo horn. I still use it to date if that halps any. I also put a little curve in the relay rod (idk the name that connects the 2 knuckles) to help clear the punkin if you can get away with that verses using the spacer to save clearance

[Satheddal]

Didn't the bends effect your overall length?

[blknslvr]

It did a little but was able to compensate with longer rod ends but if your making your own just make it a few mm longer. Also you can use a nut in between the rod end and linkage to get the little bit more length if you look mine has a nut behind the ballend. And you could use offset ball ends to space the rod away from the pumpkin also instead of a bend for the relay rod. But for the rod from the servo to the knuckle I only came up with a slight bend to clear. Maybe someone can chime in with a different approach?

I'll look tonight if I still have the links or a pic.