Modified w8 shafts vs MIP's...whats necessary

[jtessmer88]

Running a 35T on 3s right now with a set of MIP shafts. Every week I tear them down and clean/regrease them...but after two months they already have a good amount of play and need rebuilt. Two of the screws arent gonna come out so i'll end up needing a new set for another $45 bucks.

A couple of my local guys are running W8 shafts with two female ends and a male end filled with tubing and they swear theyre stronger. Not only are they lighter, but it would seem to reason that I could rebuild them much cheaper.

Anybody running modified w8 shafts and care to chip in, or am I stuck buying 3 sets of MIPs every year

[Meatwad]

Why are you tearing them down so often? Prepping for the elements goes quite a ways.

The only attraction to anything plastic is rotating mass.

[sam63]

Does the driveline slop really effect your driving a whole lot? I drive and beat on my 4 scalers pretty hard and often and know what you mean by the slop, it is annoying. I would rather have a little slop than trust the WBs though. I just recently replaced my MIPs a few months ago after about 2 years of use. I never tear mine down either, just shoot them with some WD40 every now and then. Are you in water a lot?

I am always more concerned more about slop in the other parts of the drive train like axles, tranny and Tcase. If those are nice and tight the drivelines don't bother me as much I guess.

[jtessmer88]

ya i was using this rig as a submarine frequently. I first had an issue with the pins slipping out..so im running a bit of electrical tape on them. I guess I just expected better quality for the price....and should i not be marine greasing them so frequently? does wd40 do the trick better?

[509hooligan]

I was told never to put grease on mips only wd40. Grease attracts dirt and sand which will act like sandpaper and wear all the pins and holes out.

[sam63]

Originally Posted by jtessmer88

ya i was using this rig as a submarine frequently. I first had an issue with the pins slipping out..so im running a bit of electrical tape on them. I guess I just expected better quality for the price....and should i not be marine greasing them so frequently? does wd40 do the trick better?

Try using red Loctite on the set screw that holds the pin in, should never let go. Get it good and tight using a quality allen driver too. I never use grease, just WD40. The grease will attract dirt and if you are around sand its even worse.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by jtessmer88

A couple of my local guys are running W8 shafts with two female ends and a male end filled with tubing and they swear theyre stronger. Not only are they lighter, but it would seem to reason that I could rebuild them much cheaper.

I believe the WB8 DS double bitch ends
with a centered male shaft, strengthened core
is the same as was designed by Axial, for the Deadbolt kit.

Originally Posted by jtessmer88

Anybody running modified w8 shafts and care to chip in, or am I stuck buying 3 sets of MIPs every year

I run the WB8 drive shaft(s), purdy much the original assembly...
I did however fill the male shaft(s) core/ID

a core/rod was made from my plastic spare parts tree.
^ 6mm OD abouts.

I like my WB8's...
I feel they're fairly durable and simple to rebuild.
reconstruction parts are easily found/purchased and not overly expensive.

I would not consider them a bomb proof drive shaft...
but if driven with some control/sanity... hold up fine.

I broke a universal pin once (misbehavior)
but that wasn't a big deal to fix.

proper adjustment of the slipper would offer some protection
or simply adjust your throttle inputs to engage more smoothly.

If your the hammer down kinda fella'
welp... "repair" will be your companion

I spray some white lithium in the uni's, upright
then invert the shaft n hold with paper towel as the drive train spins.
and the uni drains the dirty residue.
Not really a dirt collector that I see.

Dust is attracted to most lubricants
WD40 isn't dust/dirt resistant that I know of.
and I'd never buy it... as it's a lousy lubricant.

The only ways to assure a longer consumable life...
is to clean and re lube often.

yep... a drive shaft is a consumable item
ie: not forever - rebuild likely

[im gunna crawl]

I run the mip drive shafts in my 2 scale scx10 trucks. I have run those for about 3 years. One has a Novak 13.5 turn crawler motor w/ mmp speed control. The other holmes hobbies Brxl speed control started with a 35 turn holmes hobbies then went to a 27 turn motor. I remove my driveshafts every 6 months . They are the set screw style. They have held up great. I lube them with p b blaster and wipe them till the rust and dirt comes off the cloth that I wipe them with. Repeat until clean. Then I lube them with royal purple maxfilm. I them wipe off the excess. I pull the slip spline apart and wipe it down and clean until clean. I then wipe the slip splines with Mobil 1 grease.( the kind in a grease gun tube) Then I line up the splines and put them back in the truck. I use blue lock tight on the set screws and wipe off the excess when tight. I use dynamites drivers they seem to be a very tight fit. Let dry over night before use . Never replaced any parts yet on the driveshafts. But my angles are correct .

[GySgt Hartman]

Originally Posted by sam63

Try using red Loctite on the set screw that holds the pin in...

Bad advise, only use blue!

[Wraith1985]

I have not had any luck with MIP's. They are more of a load on the driveline and always have problems. I have made the 3 piece two female driveshafts and havnt had a single problem with them.

[dextan22]

i replaced my rear MIP driveshaft on my SCX10 with a Junfac ever since i installed the RULRs from JCAD coz of binding with the spur (them big joint sleeves or watchamakalit), i am actually liking how the Junfacs run, it seems smoother at least for me.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by GySgt Hartman

Bad advise, only use blue!

Red is the way to go. When you need to take them apart heat the set screw with a soldering iron to break the locktite free.

[666]

Originally Posted by GySgt Hartman

Bad advise, only use blue!

On high torque situations red is the way to go.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by GySgt Hartman

Bad advise, only use blue!

^ I prefer the use of Blue.
and tho' maybe not bad advice...
It's just not normally necessary for the average rc rig.

IMO Red loctite is intended for securing semi-permanently
and on components that rarely require maintenance.
And are rarely disassembled.

I use Blue loctite on all my screws threading into metal.
Nothing has ever come loose.

For 1:1 rigs...
knowing when/where to use Red or Blue...
would be a more critical exercise.

The trick with screws threading into plastic...
is to toss out those cork screws
and use the appropriately sized 3mm machined screws.
^ fits tighter and won't back out as easily.

an alternative to that ^
is to put a tiny drop of CA glue on the threads
before inserting.

Blue Loctite does not suit the plastics well...
so use CA instead.

[im gunna crawl]

Well put TacoCrawler.

[Jus]

You are wayyyyy too anal... I've got a set of MIPS that I assembled in 2008 that are still going strong. and yes they have been run A LOT.

I would NEVER take them apart. That is completely unnecessary. If you must, flush them with brake cleaner or other degreaser really good and use a good light oil. I give them a drop of Breakfree CLP before every run. it's the gun oil that keeps millions of ARs and M16s running smoothly so a $40 pair of drive shafts is nothing.

[sam63]

Originally Posted by 666

On high torque situations red is the way to go.

Totally...... torque always turned to 11

[Spiitz Travsky]

I use Moo-Slick from Cow-RC for most of my RC lubing needs. I find it works particularly well on bearings but can be used on most moving parts. It does a decent job of not attracting grime and lasts quite a while. I agree with others though about not needing to do much to maintain the MIP's. I use a small amount of blue loctite on the grubs and only tear the MIP's down when I need to get at something else. Red loctite is certainly not bad advice but has not proven necessary for my MIPs. I don't even reapply the blue loctite most times. Course I don't use my rig as a submarine though.

[Bmr4life]

So I just snapped my rear axle running an old Speed Gems 2 brushed motor on 2s for just 10 minutes. My truck is a Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. Would the WB8 HD drive shafts be strong enough to handle this motor or should I just go for all metal shafts?

[redsawacs]

Um, thats motor should break wind.....

But, while we are talking about what you want to talk about, yes, the WB8 drive shafts will work just fine. Even the old style. Stock shaft needs a 6mm bolt (cut off the treads and just use the smooth shaft) shoved down the male hollow end to fill the hollow shaft. I am running a Team Brood Specter 25t and have yet to damage my driveline.