It's stopped working

[gtione]

I have an scx10 which is powered by a team tekin brushed set up comprising of a 35 pro motor and a FXR-R esc. I am running a 2s lipo.

I have had it now for 18 months and it must have covered maybe 10-15 miles over this time of which most would be trail running.

Today without notice I started to loose drive in that my inputs resulted in the motor not turning. At first it would come back on and off if I pushed it along but now it's completely dead. This what I can see so far.

- the esc still has power and still responding to my inputs via the led's
- the audible tones that are emitted when I turn the power on are no longer there. Not sure where these come from
- the receiver seems fine as all inputs both steering works and the throttle is being picked up by esc.
- I have tried two lipo's just in case.

So is my motor finished or my ESC?

Before complete failure the motor was working fine and as strongly as ever.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance guys!!

[Yellow Rocket]

The audible tone comes from the motor. I would check the connections going to the motor and to the esc.

[sic1to]

Take motor apart & clean it to see if some grit,dirt,rock,etc may be in the way? I have had this problem as described cleaned & run in clean water was good as new!

[Wraith913]

My scx just started doing the same thing and I have the same esc motor combo. So if you find out please post up.

[TacoCrawler]

did you check the motor's brushes and springs for wear ?

18 months use will do that.

[gtione]

Not checked the motor yet since new. I was convinced at first that it was the esc but now think that the motor is in need of replacement or rebuilding. If I choose to replace the motor do I have to go with a team tekin make given the esc is made by them?

[lonleycreeper]

That was my first thought to, check the brushes first, If it moves after it is rolling but won't start

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by gtione

If I choose to replace the motor do I have to go with a team tekin make given the esc is made by them?

No... but it needs to be a brushed motor of the appropriate winding.
You can purchase a inexpensive closed endbell motor...
Or purchase a high dollar custom wind.
It's all in what you want to spend.

27, 35, 45, 55 turn motors would be best for use in a crawler.

I prefer a 55T... but I run 3s and gear low.. maybe 4mph max

so your selection would be dependent on your use, wants and needs.

[509hooligan]

Mine dif the same thing... it sucked up a washer inside the motor and locked it up!

[professorcake]

you could always try the esc with a different motor, or the motor with a different esc. Could help you confirm what is working and what is not.

[gtione]

So I dismantled the motor. I cleaned the com and the brushes and put it back together again and hey presto it worked again. I then took it out again on Saturday and it worked perfectly for about 2 miles of trailing and then started playing up again.

Do the brushes ever wear out? I am unsure how that would look if they did. The springs that keep the brushes in place are still in place and strong

I have ordered some new brushes just to check if that's the problem.


Any thoughts?

[Postclanker]

it's your brushes....
while your at it clean your comm with a comm cleaner...anything that polishes it up a bit...if you have access to a laithe...turn the comm... that would be a good thing also

[b00st3d-vr6]

I usually clean up the com with a pencil eraser. Then take an exacto knife lightly in the slots on the com to get the dirt and eraser grit out of them


Sent from the drivers seat of scx10

[Johnnysplits]

You NEED a comm lathe. Any other method will have half-assed results.

[Postclanker]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

You NEED a comm lathe. Any other method will have half-assed results.

Agreed....I have an old school comm stick that I use...leaves no residue and works great. If you can find one, it might get you by without cutting the comm.
I'd start with the new brushes though...you got good use out of the original ones.

[gtione]

Cool thx guys for all the suggestions. The brush kit should be here in a few days. I have even ordered a spare motor just is case as I am going to Scotland on holiday next month and intend on doing a fair bit of trailing whilst geocaching.

[Sheepdawg23wm]

These guys are right about the comm lathe is the best thing but me being a stubborn redneck I came up with my own method thats worked perfectly for me for years. I just chuck the comm up in a drill, mark the entire comm surface with a black sharpie, then cut a 1/4" wide 5-6 in. Strip of 200 grit sandpaper and let it rip till all the sharpie is gone. Always worked like a champ.

[gtione]

Originally Posted by Sheepdawg23wm

These guys are right about the comm lathe is the best thing but me being a stubborn redneck I came up with my own method thats worked perfectly for me for years. I just chuck the comm up in a drill, mark the entire comm surface with a black sharpie, then cut a 1/4" wide 5-6 in. Strip of 200 grit sandpaper and let it rip till all the sharpie is gone. Always worked like a champ.

Haha I saw that video on YouTube and used it to great affect. Used. 600 grit paper though as advised in the video. Yes it worked out perfect. That's why I think it's the brushes and not the com at fault. I will only be able to tell when my brushes arrive from the USA.

[Johnnysplits]

Originally Posted by Sheepdawg23wm

These guys are right about the comm lathe is the best thing but me being a stubborn redneck I came up with my own method thats worked perfectly for me for years. I just chuck the comm up in a drill, mark the entire comm surface with a black sharpie, then cut a 1/4" wide 5-6 in. Strip of 200 grit sandpaper and let it rip till all the sharpie is gone. Always worked like a champ.

That's a great method for clean-up, however the comm will still have runout. But maybe for slow speed crawling it's not so critical.

[Postclanker]

what is "runout" splits???
never heard of that....