Dingo front upper link/hardware clearance problem (motor in the way)

[professorcake]

Any suggestions? Dremeled the front upper link but I would like a better solution as its pretty thin. You can see where the stock hardware scratched up my motor a bit, had to use a shorter one. FYI its a 17.5 MMM speed passion motor using the stock gearing. Looking at it right now I see my rock guard is not straight lol I will get right on that hahaha.

[Calderwood]

Just replace the bolt with a button head and run the head on the inside and the nut on the outside of the frame. Simple problem = simple solution.

[1967Typhoon]

I had a similar issue when I mirrored my trans. I ended up doing what the above poster mentioned. I don't see anything wrong with how you have in now though. There is no flex in that area, so further scratching will not happen.

[professorcake]

oh man why didnt I think of that haha, I am going to get some aluminum uppers so I will wait till they arrive and rework it.

Thanks Calderwood and 1967Typhoon

[TacoCrawler]

I think the screw/nut hits with closed end bell brushed motors.
but on open end bell brushed motors clears better.
I haven't looked into that...
but would think someone here knows.

I use a stock cheapo ceb motor..
and I think I used a shorter screw.
Still very close... but gets it done.

If a smaller pinion gear is utilized (lower gearing)
the problem could be worsened.

an alternative (including the shorter screw)
would be to lose the high profile nylock nut
in favor of a lower profile std nut and use blue locktite on that.

reversing the direction of the bolt/nut assembly works...
but then it is likely the motor need be removed
if wanting to remove the link end from it's frame mount.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

...an alternative (including the shorter screw)
would be to lose the high profile nylock nut
in favor of a lower profile std nut and use blue locktite on that.

reversing the direction of the bolt/nut assembly works...
but then it is likely the motor need be removed
if wanting to remove the link end from it's frame mount.

Yes. I used shorter screw with thin locknut from my Wraith kit, but you could also use plain flat nut with Loctite as stated.

Reversing the screw would be a last resort because it makes trail maintenance more of a pita.

If the nut/screw barely touches the motor I'm not worried about scratching the motor, just don't want to put side load on it with too long screw.

[axial 4x4 crawler]

Try to flip that screw to where the nut is on the outside and the screw head is on the inside, I had to do this on my JK until I mirrored the tranny. This is an easy fix.

[crawlhog]

get rid of the plastic links which suck anyways, put on aluminum links with traxxas rod ends and your problem is solved. with as much as you ground off don't see them lasting very long the way they are.