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Thread: Honcho body questions

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Old 01-30-2015, 05:08 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: NNJ in the sticks
Posts: 210
Default Honcho body questions

I've relegated the dingo body for bashing and picked up a honcho bed and a proline F-250 cab. I want to make it my "good" body and make it as scale as possible.

I've seen the wire tie method of mounting the rear. I'll probably go that way but I'm torn on the mount for the front. I have both rare earth magnets and velcro in the house. In my experience the velcro works until the paint peels away from the body. Sometimes it takes a while, my RC-18T has never had an issue but with larger bodies I've seen it happen. I have a feeling the magnets would be even worse because of the weight of them compared to velcro.

What do people do about the antenna? I originally didn't drill a hole in the dingo but was getting some glitching. It seems to be a lit less since I drilled a hole for the antenna (I like my 3PK). I was thinking of using a scrap piece of lexan and wrap it so it fits under the body (old school RCCA tip I remember) but may have to find something else if it starts glitching again.

I've painted the bed with a light coat of Tamiya gunmetal, followed by duratrax silver. Not sure if I didn't wait long enough for it to try (45-60min) or maybe the different paints reacted but it looks a bit mottled. Not horrible, in fact it gives a little bit of a weathered look. Because of that I'm a little worried about a two tone scheme I was planning for the cab. Should I stick to the same paint manufacturer or give a full night to let it dry? I was quite cold today but I did do it inside at my job. Could the cold be a factor? I cleaned it with dish soap and warm water and let it dry overnight. Should I use isopropyl alcohol as well for the cab?

Also, should the body be fully trimmed before painting? I've heard differing opinions on this.
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