Scx10 king shocks 110mm side by side

[chitown4x4]

I'm new to the forum and been hunting for ways to get some more realistic flex from the scx10 chassis. I work with the real thing every day and the scx10 was not up to a built scale jeep flex wise. So I went and purchased a set of king 110mm scale shocks. I still need to get softer springs as these are great for the back to support the weight of the battery but the front is too firm. So here is the pictures. Both rigs are stock and have a battery pack in them. The stock shocks have had the bump stop cut off.

[DrDiff952]

You only need the top of your tire to be two tire heights worth of flex. Anything more is unusable in the real world.

You have enough right now.

[chitown4x4]

A couple of other benefits that I'm seeing as I drive it for the first time. The tires no longer make body contact. In fact I could lower the body another notch and it would still be good! Down sides.... Their is too much down travel and not enough up travel. If I could move the top mounting position up 10mm I think this mod would be perfect!

[gottorque]

Imagine a real JK, that runs big sticky Krawlers and coiliovers. Considering those tires, the driver likely set it up for crawling....and that is a little up travel/ but lots of down. So what you have now is plenty realistic. That is just in my opinion of course.

[chitown4x4]

Originally Posted by DrDiff952

You only need the top of your tire to be two tire heights worth of flex. Anything more is unusable in the real world.

You have enough right now.

I agree.. I think once the shock position is changed it will become more sorted. And it will loose a bit of flex which is fine.. The drive shafts are binding at full droop now

[new2rocks]

In case you haven't seen these...lowering is very easy:
http://www.amazon.com/AXIAL-SCX10-LO.../dp/B00CXQVR42

These lowering kits allow you to fine tune to get it the way you want it.

[chitown4x4]

So as I play with this set up more.. The extra articulation has made the truck more steady and less prone to rollover in crossed up situations. So having more than 2 tires height is helpful.. Almost feels like cheating!

[ScGRaceR]

Originally Posted by new2rocks

In case you haven't seen these...lowering is very easy:
Amazon.com: AXIAL SCX10 LIFT OR LOWER KIT FITS RUBICON, HONCHO, AND DINGO: Toys & Games

These lowering kits allow you to fine tune to get it the way you want it.

thanks for the tip!

[chitown4x4]

So as I putz around more with these set ups I came to a non popular.. And possibly ridiculous conclusion today... The stock shocks have 33mm of travel with the bump stop removed. The king 110mm shocks have 35mm of travel. The difference is the shock body length. So effectively. If you use the lift kit on the first notch or second.. I have yielded the same results as the king 110 shocks longer upper body.. Conclusion.. Spend the $15 before you spend the 90$... These will be going on my wraith now

EDIT: After much play time and testing against my stock truck, I have concluded this. In this picture, I never "pulled" the shock shaft out all the way. The stock springs were not long enough to push the rod out and in fact, they do have longer travel than the stock ones, but not a ton more. Further conclusions down below in post on second page, but they are infact staying on my scx10 for sure!

[chino]

"If you use the lift kit on the first notch or second.. "

What is this lift kit you speak of?

[OSRC]

The travel/length ratio is always something I look at when buying shocks. Most should post specs of extended/compressed length. The Axial units, despite some flaws, have a pretty decent ratio.

[nharkey85]

Originally Posted by OSRC

The travel/length ratio is always something I look at when buying shocks. Most should post specs of extended/compressed length. The Axial units, despite some flaws, have a pretty decent ratio.

Agreed. One thing ive noticed is the majority of shocks marketed by RC4WD (although far superior in scale appearence) have miserable specs regarding compressed, extended, and travel lengths.

I recently put axial icon shocks on my linked TF2 because the "numbers" just workout better.

[Eric0424]

Running the stock Axial SCX10 shocks without a bumper will allow the top of the shock shaft to bottom out on the shock cap at full compression. I recommend at least a 1/8" O-ring as a bumper. Or cut the stock Axial bumper down, 1/2 - 1/4 its current length.

Originally Posted by chino

"If you use the lift kit on the first notch or second.. "

What is this lift kit you speak of?

Amazon link in post number's 6 and 8.

Gear Head has one for the SCX10 also, it's a lift/lower kit.
Gear Head RC SCX10 Lift Kit

[Eric0424]

Originally Posted by chino

"If you use the lift kit on the first notch or second.. "

What is this lift kit you speak of?

If you search e-Bay for "SCX10 lift kit" you'll see several from different manufactures, Hot Racing, Level 3, Integy, etc..

[(redbeard)]

I run the 100mm King Shocks on my Powerwagon....The real benefit when it comes to those King shocks, or any dual spring shock at that matter, is you can fine tune them to your rig. I have swapped out the upper springs for a much softer spring in the rear because it is lighter (battery in the front). This allows the rear to flex and not throw the body left and right by over powering the front springs. With the Gear Head shock brackets you really get the benefit of the longer shocks, this is due to the ability to mount the upper holes inboard allowing a set up where you will maintain a smaller amount of up travel but getting the most out of your down travel. I have mine set where the static ride height of the shock is about 70% compressed which gives me a lower COG and gobbs of down travel. The rears are mounted on the furthest inboard hole and the fronts on the second inboard hole....certainly makes a huge difference over the stock shocks mounted in stock locations.

[(redbeard)]

My before the shocks pic



My after the shocks pic


That's one whole inch over the stock on the super mini super ghetto RTI ramp

[Reddog95]

Mine with 100mm King shocks

[Eric0424]

Originally Posted by (redbeard)

I run the 100mm King Shocks on my Powerwagon....The real benefit when it comes to those King shocks, or any dual spring shock at that matter, is you can fine tune them to your rig. I have swapped out the upper springs for a much softer spring in the rear because it is lighter (battery in the front).

Axial has the dual springs for their SCX10 shocks, they came with the Dingo kit, were included with some of the RtR's and can be purchased as an option. Removing or cutting the shock bumper yields up to 3mm more travel than the 100mm King shocks and the AX30117 bodies really help smooth them out and seal better. The shock bumper is just over 9mm long and restricts travel a lot.

With the longer King shocks you're getting more drop from your axles and more articulation. However, you can get the same amount of drop/articulation with a lift kit and the stock Axial shocks. Just mount the SCX10 shocks lower on the lift/lower brackets and cut or remove the shock bumper. If replacing the bumper with the 1/8" O-ring you get right at 30mm travel from the stock SCX10 shocks.

[savageasflux]

I have 100mm King shocks on my scx10. For my driving style i like them much better than stock scx10 shocks, even with dual springs. I tried softer springs, many different oils, cut rubber bumper on shaft and even removed the rubber. I tried many different shocks, sizes, brands, springs before i bought the expensive kings because i have 10 other RCs and tried most their shocks and found 100mm give me the best performance, over stock 90mm shocks. I found 110mm to be too long and made me roll over a lot more than 100s or 90s.

[Brake Weight]

I run a set of 100mm Wraith shocks for my Honcho. I ordered Axial springs for it in 2.07#, 1.43#, and 1.04# rates. All one piece and not the dual springs like the original shocks. I've got the 2.07# in the front under the battery and the 1.04# in the back. The travel is almost 50/50 like this. I originally got a lift/droop kit, but it became top heavy when lifted and drooping with the springs preloaded was too stiff. They're not as scale as the fancy ones, leak, and many don't like them. But overall I think they are a good setup for what I want as a budget beat around crawler.

(C&Ped from my phone's notepad)
•••14x70 springs•••
-Red-2.07 lbs/in
Orange-1.75
-Purple-1.43
-Black-1.04

The one is topped out, the other is bottomed out, the bump stops are removed, and it's on 2.2 Mud Slingers.


On my Wroncho I put the 90mm Honcho shocks on it due to the mounting position on the axles being higher and run some slightly shorter, but single Yeti springs on them. I don't have those spring specs on hand, but they're almost, or are identical to the Wraith springs. They are almost center of the shock's stroke as well.