My first foray in the World of Axial.
This strange brown box showed up yesterday, so I decided to open it.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...4f1f5beac3.jpg



Great, an upside-down tiny truck. Must've been destined for Australia. I'm building it anyway.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...fc88fbccdd.jpg



The first thing that jumps out at me... those are, by far, the UGLIEST diff covers I have EVER seen.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...f60f04b4f5.jpg



So, from 4Pm to 9PM I tackled this thing. Here's where it stands now. I'm going to try and find a nice dark Metallic Grey for paint. I have a set of Boom Racing Bar-6 wheels coming along with a front battery mount from Toykid via Shapeways. I also got with this order a Reign RC D90 grill set. I don't expect wheels or mount for a couple weeks, so for now, it's bone stock. The tires aren't even glued.
From there, upgrades and scale enhancements as needed... or not needed.

Motivation for this rig is a DX3c, Sr300 rx, Spektrum S6040 (noisy SOB) Traxxas ET-3S turned MMP, CCBEC and an Integy 35t lathe motor w/stock gearing.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...1ee791077c.jpg
There are a few things in the manual that bug me. When building the driveshafts, they mention to align the marks on the male and female end when sliding them together, but fail to mention BEFORE that to align the outputs too while attaching them to said driveshafts.
While building the center "diff", the picture shows a spacer in between the outputs when you bolt them to the main gear. There is no way that spacer is fitting. Maybe it's because my outputs don't have the hollow center like shown in the picture. I missed it the first time and had to take it apart just to realize it wouldn't work anyway. Blue loctite gets sticky, fast.
I'm not sure if I got the little legs on the RX box into the holes in the frame, as you almost have to have 5 hands to hold it all in place to install the screws.
I really should get powered hex bits. Running the screws through the frame and skid for the upper links took forever. Speaking of, out of all the screws used, the 4 to attach the servo to the mount are Phillips head. Why?
I'm bitching, sorry. Can't wait to run it. :)

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Those aren't diff covers, they're gate markers.

No idea why they chose phillips head for the servo, but the Wraith uses hex drive screws in the same place.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Eric, look closely at his join date. I'm pretty darn sure he at least somewhat knows what he is doing, and Is aware that those are gate markers.

My guess, an attempt at humor. I laughed anyway!

Looks like an upside down truck that you will have some fun with!

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

I don't care, someone who doesn't actually know might be genuinely curious.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

I thought his joke was funny:)

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Wow, tough crowd, for a group of toy truck enthusiasts.
Someone who doesn't actually know would agree they're ugly diff covers.

I just walked out of the nearest LHS after they tried to charge me $19 for two cans of paint. Apparently, Duratrax is expensive, but holy crap. Now I remember why I hadn't gone in there in 3 years. The prices and lack of knowledge. Shame on me and all that. Too bad they're only a mile down the road. As I was leaving, they told another guy they didn't have an ESC for an SCX. Not any specific one, none. I guess the 3 or 4 I saw in the case were for Vaterra's. :)
BTW: I'm joking. :flipoff:

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Glad to see a Dingo build! There are too many JK's!

IMHO, Tamiya paint sprays better than the Duratrax. It is also a little less expensive.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Duratrax paints are 4.5-oz compared to Tamiya's 3-oz. Tamiya runs about $2.13/oz, Duratrax about $1.78/oz. These are Tower prices and local price will most likely be higher, so $19 local price for two cans with sales tax isn't bad. But Lexan paint has always been relatively expensive.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

I think it was sticker shock, plus past experience with this particular store. I'm still going to shop around, since I don't need two full cans anyway for what I'm planning.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

If it's been a while since you've bought paint, $9.50 a can is like getting slap in the face. The extra 1.5-oz in the Duratrax comes in handy with the large short course bodies, but most others really don't need more than the 3-oz Tamiya cans. I've used both brands recently and they seem to be holding up well.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

In all honesty, the Tamyia didn't seem to stick my past body to well. Maybe the crossing of two different brands was the culprit

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

One thing that will prevent adhesion and destroy a paint job is humidity. I recently wasted a great looking Pro-Line Flo-Tek body for my short course trucks because I forgot to check the weather before painting. Humidity was 100% that day and the paint just didn't stick.

I've had good results with Pactra (out of business now) Tamiya and Duratrax.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

:lmao:

Derpy derpy.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Might it be a Hobby Clown store? My local one has a new deadbolt for a measley $347

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

No, not a chain or franchise.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Have you used the Traxxas ET-3S turned MMP before? I am really considering doing this but am unsure about reflashing it to the MMP.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

This is the first time I'm using it after the reflash, which took all of 10 minutes to do. I drove it around in the house last night and it works fine.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Ok, more progress. One reason I didn't order a whole bunch of aftermarket parts, other than the cost, is that this is my first SCX10, and it's not the usual 12.3" wheelbase version. After looking at pics of other cars, most of what I want to do should be doable with what's out there, it just might need some modification. Converting to 3-link w/panhard and CMS is a prime example. I'll have to custom make the 3rd link. I'll just have to ensure the panhard mount is more or less perpendicular to the axle. JCAD makes an adjustable chassis mount, I'll probably try that, along with a VP 3-link/panhard axle mount.
And pics.... the paint isn't exactly how I imagined it, but I think it came out pretty good. It's the same Duratrax paint, but from a different shop, and almost $2 cheaper. It's a very light coat of Silver Streak, backed with basic black. This shop didn't have metallic, but as you can see, it certainly didn't need it.
Since Axial doesn't include any guidance for stickering, it's all up to me to figure out what goes where. So eagle eyes might notice the oopsies in the interior... if I had bothered to take any pics. :) I also effed up one of the seat backs, so just left them both off.
Still waiting for wheels and Toykid's battery mount. Then I'll probably do a steering conversion w/brass burly tubes and VP chubs and knucks. Undecided on what axles to use. Suggestions?

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56908.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56907.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56906.jpg

ReignRC D90 grill and headlight bezels w/Axial light pods.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56902.jpg

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

Some more goodies showed up yesterday from RPP, and my wheels finally arrived too. Here we go...
The loot. Beef Tubes, STRC chubs, knuckles and axles and VP brass bushings for the front axle, Beef Tubes and STRC lockouts for the rear axle, HR metal gears, STRC shock hoops. All the STRC stuff is Gunmetal to compliment the body color.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56938.jpg

Front axle done up.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56939.jpg

I haven't see these mentioned around here yet. They are Boom Racing aluminum beadlocks from AsiaTee's. These particular wheels are called Bar-6B's. Back ring weighs 37g, clamping rig is a whopping 75g and the front ring is 44g, for a total weight of 156g ea. They're hefty. I didn't bother adding any more weight. I also forgot to measure the width.
They come with a cheesy 2mm socket that lasted about a wheel and a half. Luckily each set of two came with one, so being careful, I was able to finish the rest. I'll have to hit up a vendor here for a new tool if I need to take these back apart. I may be able to use a 2.5mm screw as well, but it might be a tight fit.
Fit and finish is excellent, based on my limited exposure to beadlocks (these and a set of RC4WD on my Highlift). The locking comes from the 6 hub screws. The 6 screws around the outside are removable, but serve no other function than to fill a hole.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56941.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56940.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56942.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56945.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56943.jpg

Done for this round.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-56946.jpg

I also built upper links to convert to 4-link from the plastic 3-link it came with. Completely spaced on pics, but it's been done before, so I don't feel too bad. They're made with Traxxas 5347 (Revo) ends, 8-32 stainless all-thread and sleeved with 3/16, .014 wall aluminum tubing. I drove to 3 different hardware stores and 2 hobby shops and no one sells stainless tubing. The all-thread was cut to 89mm, and the sleeves are 74mm to give a decent pinion angle but leave a little caster in the front axle.
I used 2mm spacers so that the Revo ends wouldn't rub the bottom of the servo plate. I used the 4-link trusses that came in the kit.

Re: I have no idea what I'm doing
 

More things done...
First, a 3d printed battery mount from Toykid, via Shapeways. See this thread for details: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial...l-parts-9.html It goes in place of the receiver box, which was first moved to the back, but then put on plates on the rockers. The stock battery mount and plate bolts to this. Fairly solid, though I did split one of the top mounting holes. I think it was a combination of the hole not being quite round and me tightening it a little too much. The picture I took makes it look a lot worse than it really is, so I'm not going to post it, but ignore the left side of the picture in the next section. :)
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57024.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57023.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57016.jpg

Next, I modified the servo, mount and brace so that the servo wouldn't hit anything in its travel. Other people have removed the entire left side of the brace and flipped the shock mount screw, but what I did was a little different, with the same result.
First, the stock brace...
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57022.jpg
Not only does the servo hit that angled corer, but also the top (as it's on its side) servo tab hits the frame as well. In the kit was a short mount with one hole, so that was swapped in, and the top tab of servo dremeled off.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57019.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57018.jpg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57017.jpg
An unintended, but welcome side affect is that the wire no longer hits either.

New plates on the left and right side. I found some plastic dividers that had come with my Stanley FatMax rolling toolbox. Using a straight edge and razor knife, I cut two squares out, 50x50mm. Marked 'em 10mm from an edge and clamped in a vice. Using a heat gun, I heated the joint and bent them 90° using a scraper. The holes are 38mm apart and use the screws holding in the skid. Cleaned up with some rubbing alcohol and the Rx is on one side, and the ESC on the other.
Finally, I cut and flipped the stock rockers.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4057-57020.jpg

Waiting on a 3Racing winch, some servo extensions and a couple bypass adapters and I'll be back in business. The ESC wire is only a half an inch short!