Honcho to Dingo chassis conversion

[Iakopa84]

Hey all, I'm new to the whole crawler scene and recently bought a Honcho RTR. It's really fun and I'm already in the process of doing upgrades (been reading through a lot of forum suggestions). I'm wanting to change the honcho style over to the Dingo body/setup, and was wondering what all I needed to change for it to work.

So far, I've read that just changing out the suspension links will work. Would doing only that give the tires enough clearance from the body? Any and all tips/advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Here's where im at so far. I got the body cut out and am in the process of masking it before paint

[TacoCrawler]

my input

the lower link's control/establish wheel base length
whereas
the upper link's control/establish caster axis and axle housing rotation (clocking)

over rotating the axle housing... ( ^ forward)
can reduce the necessary/wanted negative caster.
And could require 8* Sknuckles and Chubs to compensate for axle rotation.

Besides changing to the shorter links (11.04" WB)...
I believe the Dingo use a shorter rear drive shaft in the rear.
there should've been optional spares included, to shorten the rear drive shaft.
Basically ya want to use the same DS length that is on the front drive, at the rear.

[Iakopa84]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

my input

the lower link's control/establish wheel base length
whereas
the upper link's control/establish caster axis and axle housing rotation (clocking)

over rotating the axle housing... ( ^ forward)
can reduce the necessary/wanted negative caster.
And could require 8* Sknuckles and Chubs to compensate for axle rotation.

Besides changing to the shorter links (11.04" WB)...
I believe the Dingo use a shorter rear drive shaft in the rear.
there should've been optional spares included, to shorten the rear drive shaft.
Basically ya want to use the same DS length that is on the front drive, at the rear.

Thanks Taco! I was figuring I would change the DS because of the potential binding at the steeper angle. Thanks for the input

[DowntownScience]

I believe axles are same length. I just shortened mine to run the jeep cherokee body. Move rear shock brace forward to dingo holes so that you can still move shock forward. You can also place spacers between the rod end and link on uppers to give you proper axle angle. No caster worries there unless you run rear steer.

Are you shortening the front too? Not sure on the front differences for dingo. I only shortened rear.

[Iakopa84]

Originally Posted by DowntownScience

I believe axles are same length. I just shortened mine to run the jeep cherokee body. Move rear shock brace forward to dingo holes so that you can still move shock forward. You can also place spacers between the rod end and link on uppers to give you proper axle angle. No caster worries there unless you run rear steer.

Are you shortening the front too? Not sure on the front differences for dingo. I only shortened rear.

Thanks for the advice about the spacers. I saw the extra hole on the chassis for the dingo shock brace, so im gonna move to that once I get shorter lower links. I may move the front a bit to make it sit in the wheel well better... I tested it out as is and have some tire rubbing while making turns.

Here's how it currently looks with the Honcho wheelbase on a Dingo body:

[DowntownScience]

Front does need to go back some. Have you looked up dingo kit link lengths?

[DowntownScience]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GUkgC1QxD8U

[DowntownScience]

:-)

[TacoCrawler]

I'd four link the front of your Dingo...
screw that "Y" link single ball mount.
it's junk from the start.

And if ya wanted to install a CMS/panhard...
you could simply remove the opposing upper link.

this read may be helpful...

West Coast RC Crawlers