Going back to basics build

[buggynutt]

Hey all, I have been off rcc for along while. I have been hiding from the addiction and it has found me once again. So I'm going back to basics on this rig. Im picking up my rtr scx10 deadbolt tomorrow afternoon and I have some plans for it. I have rigs that are built so much that the challenge has been lost and the fun was becoming just another battery to kill. So all that said, this is going to be a noob build on no budget. You all remember when you got started and had no idea what to do. Well this rig will be only run with what it comes with in the box. Only mods that will be done is stuff that can be done with the parts supplied. I will upgrade if something breaks and I dont have any parts to fix it. I have about 4 scx10 worth the stock parts around so it will be along time before I have to spend any cash. Im guessing that the first thing to go will probably be the electronics but time will tell. I haven't bought a new rig rtr since my ax10 scorpion that came with a fm radio and ran nickel packs. This should be a hlast. I will post pics of the unboxing tomorrow. Lol .. to be continued

[SCREAMER]

You made the right choice picking the Deadbolt. Just run 3s in it and you'll have fun and upgrade often.

[buggynutt]

So you all have seen the deadbolt scx10. I just got it and forgot how simple it is. A few things I dont like to start right out of the box. I need to change out the battery plug as everything I own is deans connectors. Second thing, not sure about the tactic controler, it seems cheap and feels like some kind of walmart toy. I will give it a go and it may be alot better than it feels. First change before I get to drive it will be the plug. Alsotnot happy about ttrying to get my fingers in the cage to pull out body pins. If they put them in a hard to get to place they could atleast give you a string or something to pull on. I will try to get the pics up tonight of the unboxing.

[buggynutt]

Ok so i just made me up a battery connector so i could go out and do a first impressions drive. All box stock and running a 2s 5000mah lipo. Why have they not moved the battery up front? Why do they over gear it? The 2 simplest things to do and they cant. There is know reason to have this much speed out of the box, especially for new drivers. It makes no sense to me why they haven't got this setup to its potential right out of the box. people have been changing a few things like battery placement and such for years and we haven't seen it changed. Axial need change with the times. I guess I just don't get there train of thought. I don't want to make this into a i hate axial post as that is not the case. I have alot of axial rigs and most are so built that i have to find crazy hard thing to crawl to have a good time. Im sticking to the plan. No mods except what came in the box and I'm going to drive it hard and see what it will do.

[TrailSnail]

You probably have some of those plasctic extensions in the extra parts for the body clips to make them easier to remove/install. The other items of frustration you mentioned have some of us scratching our head too...

[Big Bill]

Ok I had the same idea when I bought a RTR Deadbolt. But I knew right off that I would be using my Spekrum radio and receiver. And that I would change be changing out the plastic links for Alum. , Oh yeah and I had better change out the stock drive lines for the MIP shafts. This thing really worked pretty good right out of the box before I changed the things I mentioned, but you know how it goes I cant leave well enough alone. So I start changing things out SSD fromt bumper and winch, oh OK upgraded Trans gears, and OD gears in the front diff. oh yeah i had better upgrade to CVDs. SSD rims and Pit Bull Rock Beasts) really a great upgrade) So now shes getting heavy, stiffer, and not really working as well as it did out of the box. Anyway we have a GTG this weekend and I am going to see what is working and what is not and will be going back to basics during the week. Kind of wish I had done only a few things and just enjoyed this rig.

[buggynutt]

So i got this thing out and ran it abit.. Axial??? what the hell are you doing?? Im going to have to fix some mistakes you made. I guess making steering links and links out of rubber seems like a sure fire way to get people to spend money on new parts. Even with the stock servo, when i get into some rocks to steer everything just bends and flexes. I say you dropped the ball on this by changing your plastic. Good thing is it wont break..Why do they take a great rig and down grade it to a sub par toy. I think it actually has the same plastic that newbright uses. Come on.. WHY???? I have to say it does really great in the yard(grass) but I will be running the heck out of it today and will see what it can do in all its bendy/flexy glory.

[SCREAMER]

Axial put the battery in the front of the honcho and power wagon. They acknowledge that this is an alternative location for battery placement. The stock wild boar HD drivelines can stand up to 3s brushless power, I can attest to this, so for the stock motor on 2 or even 3s you're good. Gearing is a personal preference. My 4 year old daughter told me immediately that her G6 Wrangler was too slow. I had to explain to her why it's not a rocket and now she gets it. As for the links, you nailed it right on the head. They are soft so they won't break and give you a learning curve. When you get to the point that you need solid links, you're ready for solid links. These products have to appeal to a wide range of customers and when cost is a factor they will chose something that is cheaper, less prone to break, and is good enough, rather than add $60 to the price of said toy for the 20-30% of us that need these links from the start. This goes for every component on the RTRs. I'm actually surprised that the Deadbolt is by far the cheapest SCX10 RTR, yet still comes with the dual slipper clutch, 32p gears, HD shafts, ESC rated for 3s, etc. Look at it this way. Axial gives you a semi blank canvas with only what is needed for the best price they can. This means you only need to buy what YOU need to buy to make it your version of perfect. My Deabolt cost $700 to get it "perfect". Others cost $2000 to get it "perfect". How much will yours cost until it's "perfect", or at least good enough?

[buggynutt]

I do understand all the points to make it cheap. I also think that by not doing the stuff to the rig from the factory it causes people to really think its sub par and will move on. As i mentioned before Im not by any means against axial I just dont understand how making the parts almost a rubber compound is good for anything. I have to say all in all for the price of the deadbolt at around $280 its defiantly the best bang for the buck. I have about 3hrs of drive time on it and have tumbled it down some good falls on rock and flipped it back over and kept going. I have to say with all the stuff that i didn't care for it has actually surprised me a few times already. I haven't changed anything yet from the box and at this point Im thinking about just driving it as is to see what I can conquer. The good definitely out weighs the bad. I was told that all the stuff to change the battery location was included with it but i havent even opened the parts bag. I did notice that there are extra parts for the most common breaks, but i also noticed that it has no extra screws from what i could see. Thanks everyone for your input and info. Let me know what you think of your deadbolt and what your favorite mod for it has been. Thanks

[Big Bill]

There is a thread on here ..Dudley the Deadbolt that will get your attention. Check it out.