I got a honcho a year ago and I have done a few things to it since then. This build will move very slowly so updates will come once every few months or so. Here is a list of the things that I have done to it so far:

Vanquish titanium link/ pan hard kit
Mytrick RC light kit for the body
Another Axial light controller for the light bar
Axial universal light bar
Axial Yeti fuel cell (painted and waterproofed)
Fuel hoses/ filler hose
Homemade fenders
2 Traxxas receiver boxes for waterproofing receiver and light controllers
Sideways mounted battery
Flipped transmission
3racing mirrors
Proline ridgeline bumper
Waterproofed servo and ESC

Here are some pictures:

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psmnzrr4bt.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...pslpcgxisk.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psid3gxqv6.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psk7ve1baf.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psjjby8lk5.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psc7iz6whu.jpg

All the lights on:

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psgktobudp.jpg

I removed the wheel wells and made a custom steel bracket painted black to lower the battery even farther then it was before. I also removed the wheel wells because the paint was chipping badly.


http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9wy0x3km.jpg

After I finished screwing in about 250 tiny screws into the bead locks to finish assembling them, I used boiling water to remove the glue off the stock tires so I could reuse them. It worked perfectly but took a long time (30+ minutes per wheel). Then I mounted them up to the bead locks.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psapi0n8kf.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psucqnwqiq.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psit0to91q.jpg

Had a nice bonfire over the weekend (didn't burn the truck luckily "thumbsup")

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psbuhgbz6i.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4nv9lz9s.jpg

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I hear ya on the degluing tires using the boiling method. I did that on a set of SCT wheels and my fingers hurt like hell. Looks like you did a good job and nice choice on the beadlocks.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I used some rubber gloves and for the most part it blocked out the heat. Also, I boiled them outside and I had a garden hose that I used to quickly spray off my hands if they ever got too hot.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

As I use the truck in water, and then wash it with water as well, I started to notice a lot of rust building up from the old stock screws. Also, I frequently find myself in need of various screws and nuts and have to improvise. So, I decided to kill two birds with one stone and bought myself the RC Screwz stainless steel screw kit for the SCX10 honcho:

axi011 - Axial SCX10 Honcho RTR Stainless Steel Screw

I installed most of the screws except the bed cage ones since I liked the black screws because they went with the black bed cage. Otherwise, the rest of the truck looks new and shiny!

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I wanted to start slowly upgrading the driveline, so I got some Locked Up RC OTVD steering driveshaft's. I greased them with some marine grease and then installed them. They fit perfectly and I had no issues there. I then removed the button head screws from the front of the c-hubs and replaced them with setscrews to gain a better steering angle. Eventually I hope to get some high-steer knuckles/c-hubs to max out on the steering angle. So far, these things look great, they will increase the steering angle a lot, and they should be way stronger than the stock ones.

OTVD - SCX10/AX10 steering axle shafts

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psi3cw6fbz.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psbkmpdx44.jpg

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

NEW SHOCKS!!!

Over the past few days when I had time, I have been assembling the new shocks that I got and they are finally complete. I wanted to go all out with the shocks like I did with the wheels and so I bought the new Proline Ultra Reservoir Shocks:https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...-shocks-105mm/

First, I disassembled them and lubricated all the seals with Team Associated green slime to make sure there are no leaks. Then I filled them with oil according to Proline's instructions. Since these shocks were about 15mm longer than the stock ones, I had to make a few changes to my shock mounting locations to prevent driveshaft binding (which was happening when I first tried to install them). I made some quick ghetto steel plates for the front, and for the rear I simply moved the shock mounts to the farther forward holes to make them be at an angle. Since I knew ahead of time that I would have to change the mounting locations since the new shocks are longer, I can't complain here.

PROS:

• Assembly was straightforward since Proline made a detailed video on how to assemble them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZpeS4NNK4k
• These shocks are EXTREMELY smooth and have way less friction than the stock ones do
• Everything about them is larger, thicker and very likely more stronger than the stock ones: The bodies, the reservoirs, and even the shafts which are 3.5 mm thick are all larger
• The anodized aluminum finish looks great
• The shocks are completely made of aluminum/steel except for a few plastic internal parts in the cartridge
• The reservoir system works great and you can actually adjust how far the pistons rebound without springs which is a cool feature. This is very similar to the air pressure in the reservoir on a 1:1 shock, except it uses a small spring instead of air
• The bleed screws allow you to bleed oil out and get the rebound adjusted as close as possible
• The shocks have a dual spring system and a collar that adjusts when it switches from single to dual spring, another cool feature

CONS:

• The one problem I had about them is for one of the steps for assembling them: They are designed in a way that to get the small piston with the x-ring on it into the reservoir, you have to force it into the reservoir, and the side that you force it into has a lot of threads on it, which as I found out tears the x-ring a lot quicker than you'd think. I tore part of one of the x-rings on one of the shocks, even though I had lubed it with green slime AND shock oil, and it still tore. Luckily, only part of it tore, and I left it hoping that it doesn't leak, but either way I'd expect a somewhat better design for about $90 a pair depending on where you get them. On the bright side though, if I do have to end up replacing it, Proline does make a rebuild kit for these shocks. Other than this problem, however, these shocks are great!

Here are some pictures:
http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psikwbcyu5.jpg
http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psnr02pdkb.jpg
http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1ndbgp0.jpg
http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psurmtyzpy.jpg

This picture is of the box that the shocks came in and it shows the internals:
http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psvxbbwnhv.jpg

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

So did you get a chance to run them yet? These do have me interested and although expensive I still want them.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I haven't gotten a chance yet but when I do (likely this weekend), I will post an update.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

Follow up on the shocks:

After driving the truck (which weighs about 7 lbs) through the snow and doing some light crawling, I found that the stiffness of the springs worked well, and in fact for the front I also had to preload them a lot to get them stiff enough. The extra travel in the rear was also nice because if I wanted to go faster, it absorbed bumps really well. Overall I love these shocks and even though they were probably not designed for the SCX10 (they are almost 15mm longer), they work well after moving some things around in the rear and lowering the front.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I have wanted a 2 speed transmission for a while, because I wanted to be able to go a wide range of speeds, and I also wanted to upgrade the transmission gears. Because of this, I recently got the SSD 2 Speed Transmission:

SSD RC 2 Speed Transmission Kit for Wraith

The transmission came half assembled, as it is a kit, and I took it apart to install the necessary parts from the stock transmission. The transmission also came pre-greased with some grease, however I completely took the gears apart and added a ton of marine grease to keep water out and to keep it well lubricated. *Note that if you do this, there are a lot of small washers and you will have to remember where each one goes because there are no instructions.* All the necessary stock parts went on easily and after adding some thread lock to all the screws, the inside was done. To shift the transmission, I added a micro waterproof servo to save space since this is going under a honcho body. There were no holes on the servo mounting plate that matched up with the size of the servo that I chose, so I had to drill a hole to mount the servo. Finally, I attached the shifting linkage, which came with the transmission.

Now that the transmission was built, I had to install it on the truck. Somehow, the transmission fit perfectly and barely cleared everything (chassis rails, links, etc), and I didn't have to shave off anything to get it to fit. However, since the rear drive shafts were now shorter, I had to replace those with shorter ones that I found in the parts bag to prevent them from binding. Also, I had to make some more brackets for the rear shocks to raise them to prevent binding as well. After that, I programmed my transmitter to set up the third channel for the shift servo and eventually, everything worked. The rearmost part of the transmission (the servo plate) even fit under the honcho body, so I didn't have to cut anything off the body (the hole in the body shown in the picture is so that the wires for the lights can go through).

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psafc9sfbi.jpg
Picture that shows how the servo plate barely cleared under the body

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psemil3q8u.jpg
Picture that shows the brackets for the rear shocks

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psvtrgihth.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psc0zcaghw.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1fep5zat.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psx9luvde6.jpg

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

Hey nice Honcho!

I seen a couple of SCX10's running the 2 speed transmission and i was really tempted myself but they're expensive!
I run mines in water as well and been having the same issues with rusty screws as yourself as well.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

Earlier in the build thread I show that I got the RCScrewz stainless steel screw set, but I ended up not having enough for the entire transmission, which is why some of the screws shown are the stock ones. The stainless steel ones work great in water and do not rust like the stock ones.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I've went a similar route myself and went through the manual and ordered almost all the screws, washers and nuts in stainless steel from ebay in individual sets. Works out a lot cheaper that way here in the UK

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

How are these holding up as far as leaking goes? I see in the Chit Chat thread about these that people are starting to say they leak. have you started to see this too?

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

In short, yes, I have started to notice oil leakage. These do leak slightly around the reservoirs, in fact, on 3 out of 4 of them, oil would start bubbling out of the reservoirs when fully compressed. I think this might be because of the way you have to put the piston into the reservoir, it passes a ton of threads and the x rings get caught up in the threads which tears them, leading to oil leakage. I did put a generous amount of green slime on all the shocks when I built them, and that has prevented leakage on the rest of the shocks except for the reservoirs. I have ordered and received a rebuild kit and I plan to rebuild them asap. I think the important thing is to be very careful when putting the reservoir pistons in. I think I might try to put even more green slime on them when I reassemble them.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I began to rebuild the shocks, and when I opened them up, the damage was way worse than I initially thought. There were two major areas that had problems: On every shock, the shock cartridge o ring (shown in the first picture) is torn if you look closely. Although this part was not leaking, after more use I think that they would eventually leak. The second problem was the x rings for the pistons. All of them for every shock were ripped in one way or another. In the picture you can see the ripped blue strands that came off the x rings. I thought that most of the x rings and all of the o rings were intact, but after opening the shocks, I realized that this was not the case. Also, I can assure you that I took care when assembling them to not rip anything, but I guess that they ripped anyway, thanks to Proline's poor design.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psccqpzxhl.jpg
Picture showing the damage to the cartridge o-rings (hard to see but all are torn in some way believe me)

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psstmgzsg2.jpg
Picture showing the damage to the piston x rings and strands of the x rings that were also in the piston

Honestly, for shocks that cost this much, this is completely ridiculous. Proline better damn well send me a lot of free rebuild kits for these things or I will not be happy.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

I think I may have a solution for the leaky Proline Ultra Reservoir Shocks:

Honestly, the amount of money that I paid for the Proline Ultra Reservoir Shocks is not worth their problems. However, now that I'm stuck with them, I just had to find a fix for them that prevents farther oil leakage. I figured out the root of the problem for me personally while attempting to rebuild them: No matter how you insert the x-ring piston into the reservoir, the x-ring ALWAYS tears. No matter what. I tried everything to get the damn thing in, but every time, I ended up with more x-ring strands and a torn x-ring.

Now that I knew the x-rings were not going to cut it, I decided to try something else for the seals instead of the x-rings. I went to my local hardware store and bought some o-rings that are similar in size to the x-rings (actual sizes shown in the picture). I then put the o-rings on the pistons instead of the x-rings, and they fit. Next, I put the pistons into the reservoirs. Unlike the x-rings, it barely took any force to get them in and they went in smoothly. Even better, so far I have not noticed any leakage, and I will continue to post updates on this. So, for now, I think I may have found a solution."thumbsup"

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...pswdv6q3k1.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psnsj3oeoc.jpg

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

Update on the Proline Ultra Reservoir Shocks

I installed them on the truck and left them there, and after a few days, there is noticeable amounts of oil still leaking out of 3 out of the 4 reservoirs.:evil: And Proline still hasn't responded to my complaint email.:roll: Now, it could be that the oil that is leaking out was just in there before, and is now flowing downward because the shocks are installed upright, but since its coming out of 3 out of the 4 shocks I think otherwise. I cleaned off the oil and I will continue to post updates on this.

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

Another Proline Ultra Reservoir Shocks Update

The thing about the Proline Ultra Reservoir Shocks is that they use silicone o rings. After doing some quick research, I found the following information about silicone o-rings: They have the worst tear resistance/abrasion resistance, and they are not even well suited for silicone oils. I found this information here:

http://www.marcorubber.com/userAsset...iles/S1000.pdf


What I'd like to do is replace each o ring with a new one made from a more durable material. After doing some more research, I found that urethane o rings have the best abrasion resistance and are even suited for shock absorber applications according to this site:

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...&cPath=367_454

Could someone with more knowledge about o ring materials possibly correct me if I'm wrong about any of this or tell me about a different material that is even better? Thank You!

Re: My SCX10 Honcho Build Thread
 

Well, I ended up ordering the o rings in Viton. I ordered a full set to replace all the o rings (except the shock shaft X rings and preload collar o rings):

• 9mm x 1mm o-ring x 4
• 7.5mm x 1mm o-ring x 4
• 6mm x 1mm o-ring x 8
• 2.5mm x 1mm o-ring x 4
• 3mm x 2mm o-ring x 4

I installed all of them on the shocks, and after a few weeks of testing, the reservoir piston (internal floating piston or IFP) o rings still ripped and leak, but the rest of the o rings are intact and do not leak anymore. I hope to next try Buna-N o rings or Urethane o rings for the IFP.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...pscoo9ikox.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psr6sf5v9h.jpg

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...psuhhsaq5v.jpg