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Thread: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

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Old 07-28-2016, 02:07 PM   #1
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Default Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Three years ago, I was only just discovering scale RC trucks through YouTube and Instagram, as my only experience was with bashing. One of the first models that grabbed my attention was the SCX10 Dingo, which is probably why the RC4WD Gelande II D90 also piqued my interest, a short while after. I was going to get the Dingo kit as my first scale rig, but I changed my mind, thinking that a longer wheelbase SCX10 would be better to start with. Whether it was, or wasn't, since then, I have had both long and short, and they're each fun, and I felt that it was finally time to do a Dingo, because my admiration for it has not faltered. I have an RC4WD G2 D90 kit, which I'm slowly working on, but I still wanted a Dingo!

Last December, I bought a pre-roller Deadbolt chassis off eBay, with the intention of doing a Tonka RC conversion, but that's been put on the back burner. Instead, I bought a Dingo body kit a few months ago, and started sourcing parts for the build. I was going to try and do a one-week challenge, this week, so that I could take it on a trail, Saturday, but it's not looking so good, as I'm still on the front axle (working from front to rear), and haven't even started painting the body.

If this is going to happen, I'm going to have to prioritize modifying/upgrading only that which is necessary to mount the Dingo body (suspension links), and enable the chassis to run (electronics). I have a box full of cool goodies to beef this thing up, but it's not essential for getting it running. Last night I tore down the front axle, but decided to leave the stock locker & axle gears in place, since they're brand new, though I did dremel the bearing tabs for Beef Tubes, as I feel those are important. I have a LockedUp FI Spool, hardened diff gears, and a set of SSD universals for it, but I'm likely going to save those for later, also. As a matter of fact, I'm going to have to skip the rest of the chassis internals, and just get the wheelbase right, then focus on electronics and getting the body painted, and cage built.









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Old 08-23-2016, 12:08 PM   #2
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Oy...slow progress. I meant to have this thing done already, but keep running into snags, and family life, of course, is often unpredictable.

I decided to try the Boom Racing gearbox, and was pleased with how all the gears & bearings fit, including the Robinson Racing HD gears.



Since I was building this off an SCX10 Deadbolt pre-roller chassis, I didn't consider that the drive shafts would be too long. I was prepared to trim them down, but realized that I had some nice steel shafts that I'd bought for my Gelande II D90, but didn't currently need. They fit the Dingo just right, and are nice and hefty.



Here's my painted body, almost complete. I used Tamiya PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue, with PS-23 Gunmetal, then backed with PS-12 Silver, and finally sealed with black plasti-dip.



I'm currently struggling with the chassis. I had chosen to use Traxxas 5318 Revo push rod links, for the wheelbase, but it put my front wheels into the wheel well. I made some custom links, which corrected that, but it pulled my front axle so far back that my servo will not clear that brace that the front shock towers bolt into. I'll have to cut out the little angular supports to correct that, but now my front shocks are almost leaning in the opposite direction. It seems like the 5318 pushrod links are too long in the rear, provoking me to use front links that are too short. I'm also thinking the problem is that the body mounts for the Deadbolt are different than where the Dingo would mount? Very frustrating.
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:26 AM   #3
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

In order to stop the servo from hitting the cross member and to get the tires centered in the wells I had to make my own links. What came with the kit was just too long.

If you don't mind a suggestion. Look into the front grill and light bezels for the dingo, it is a nice fining touch. I forget who makes them I think reign rc, but I know RPPhobbys has them.

I have a deadbolt and a dingo at home, if you need any pictures comparing the two let me know and I can do side by sides for you.

Last edited by Ditchrat; 08-24-2016 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:44 AM   #4
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Thanks for the response, Ditchrat. This was a custom setup to begin with, since I'm using a Deadbolt pre-roller. Another RCC member, DeweyCJ5, had posted in several threads about how he used Traxxas 5318 push rods for all his lower links, as well as the rear uppers, so I figured I'd follow that method, since it's a cheaper route, but I didn't end up with the appropriate wheelbase. I had already made my own upper links, but since my front wheels were pushing into the front of the wheel wells, I took my homemade front upper links, shortened them, and put them on the bottom, which corrected my wheelbase, but now I have to make new upper ones, but my axle is now so far back, that my servo is hitting the 2nd front brace. Not the one close to the bumper, but the one further back, which the shock hoops mount to. I don't believe it should be so far back, and I'm wondering if it has something to do with the links I used in the rear, and perhaps the default mounting positions of the shock hoop/body mounts.

My question is, then, for the stock SCX10 Dingo (RTR or KIT), are the shock hoop/body mounts on the same position of the frame rails as a Deadbolt? I'm just wondering if I should have moved my shock hoops before I fitted my body and reamed the mounting holes.
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Old 08-24-2016, 06:59 PM   #5
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight



Clearance compressed.



Note sure if this helps.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:02 AM   #6
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyluv View Post
...My question is, then, for the stock SCX10 Dingo (RTR or KIT), are the shock hoop/body mounts on the same position of the frame rails as a Deadbolt? I'm just wondering if I should have moved my shock hoops before I fitted my body and reamed the mounting holes.
The RTR Green Deadbolt body does not use the same rear shock hoop position. The rear shock hoops will need to be moved to the forward holes in the frame to fit the RTR Green Deadbolt body. I tested the fit of one on my Dingo last weekend, and converted a Dingo to a Deadbolt a year or so ago.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:26 PM   #7
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Well, I guess I'll go ahead and press on with getting the front axle w/servo to fit, because I don't feel like redoing all my links and reaming more holes in my already painted body. As long as I can get it to run effectively, I'll be content.

I really need to get the Dingo finished soon, because the extended weather forecast for the Pacific NW is showing a regime change, of clouds and rain (almost like an early fall), extending into mid-September. This severely diminishes my ability to get any more bodies painted, and I have several that I planned to get done before summer was over. I lack a decent indoor space for painting, so summer is my best option. In haste, I pulled my clear Jeep G6 out of the attic, last night, since it was next on the list, and started trimming and prepping it. I realized though, that I'm going to be putting it on a TSS SCX-HR chassis, which means I need to have that built, and the wheelbase set, before I start painting, or else I'll have the same problem as with the Dingo! Arrgggh!
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:09 PM   #8
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyluv View Post
Well, I guess I'll go ahead and press on with getting the front axle w/servo to fit, because I don't feel like redoing all my links and reaming more holes in my already painted body. As long as I can get it to run effectively, I'll be content.

I really need to get the Dingo finished soon, because the extended weather forecast for the Pacific NW is showing a regime change,!

Ok before you step back from getting it where you want them, try a little more, I dealt with this building my kit, but I did get it settled.

I'll bet that you length are just a little off causing the axle to be clocked. All you need to do is unscrew the rod ends a little bit until you get your clearance, after that you can figure out shims, difference rod ends or new links.

Post up a picture of it fully compressed so we can see where its hitting, and maybe a picture showing the position of the axle, where is the seam between the two half?
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:51 PM   #9
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

I'll try and post a good perspective pic, this evening, which will hopefully provide clarification.
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Old 08-26-2016, 11:31 AM   #10
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Here are some pics that might shed some light on the problem I ran into, which I think was a combination of using non-standard links and not setting the wheelbase before mounting the body. Last night I went ahead and trimmed my mid-frame cross brace so the servo would clear it under full compression, then I made some new upper links with all-thread. I'll probably take my brake line tube up to my in-laws this weekend, so I can cut some sleeves. My father-in-law has a machine shop, making it easier to do messy work like that.



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Old 08-28-2016, 06:02 PM   #11
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Ah, I just cut those corner supports out. Had that problem with the dingo kit too.

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Old 09-12-2016, 11:37 AM   #12
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Here's where I am, currently. There's some tweaking that remains to be done, like adjusting the wheelbase from the front lower links, adjusting the front bumper, mounting the windshield, and adding LED's, but it's just about done.

Notable parts:
  • Castle SV3 esc
  • Yeah Racing Hackmoto 35T brushed motor
  • Flysky receiver
  • PowerHD 1236TG servo
  • Boom Racing aluminum gearbox
  • Robinson Racing HD transmission gears
  • Front Axle - Beeftubes, STRC chubs/knuckles, BlueMonkey Titanium steering links
  • Rear Axle - LockedUpRC locker, HD Beveled 43T (underdrive) gears, Beeftubes, and STRC aluminum lockouts
  • ChoiceRC steel cvd drive shafts
  • RC Rock Armor "Slayer" front bumper
  • RC Rock Armor SCX10 rear bumper with LED light holes
  • eBay Heavy duty beadlock rims
  • RC4WD Rock Crusher II X/T 1.9" Tires
  • eBay 90mm blue aluminum shocks (Getting replaced by Traxxas Big Bores)




Last edited by johnnyluv; 09-12-2016 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:46 PM   #13
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Update:

I got burned out from messing with the Dingo and took a break from it. My custom front links ended up an utter failure, and I tried to get a full set from R2j, but he's been unresponsive. For the past couple of months I've distracted myself with some less stressful Traxxas rigs, but I recently pulled the Dingo off the shelf and was reminded of how good the truck was going to be, so I have just ordered a full 8-link kit from RC4x4 Stainless (off Facebook).
I'd like to get the Dingo up & running, even though our prime trailing season is mostly gone. There'll still be opportunities to get out, from time to time, and it'd be nice to have it ready to go.
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:20 AM   #14
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Default Re: Dabbler's Dingo Delight

Got the links, and they seem really decent! My Traxxas Stampede 4x4 is currently occupying my bench, so it'll probably be a couple of weeks before I get to it.

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