More-scale C1 Rubicon

[Greatscott]

Here is my SCX10 built from the Rubicon kit. I have put smaller tires on it to get it into the C1 class, now I am trying to maximize my scale points:









My overall goal is to get this truck as close to 60 points as possible. By my prognostication, it is sitting at 40 scale points, I would like to get that into the mid-50s, if not max out. There are a few easy things right off the bat to get more points, metal sliders, a roof-rack, fenders, and light bar, but all of those would give me a grand total of eight more points. A hard body would be 8 points all by itself (full), but there do not seem to be that many out there specifically for the SCX10. I am willing to get a little radical with it, but the cost and effort might just equal selling it and getting a TF2.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

[svt923]

The Jeep XJ hard body, Killerbody LC70, and 4 door Yota are 12.3 inch wheelbase hard bodies. They aren't drop on fits but do have matching wheelbases to your current setup.

My plan would be:

Forward motor with t-case = 4 points
Hard body = 8 points
Simple full depth interior (dash, seats, and floor) = 4-5 points
Full size driver + passenger = 8 points
Metal sliders = 3 points
Front inner fenders = 1 point

That would get you into the mid to upper 50s for points while keeping your current chassis.

[Jeepy84]

I ran into the same issue with my Dingo, the revised rules, especially regarding cage design just totally eliminated it from contention, and I DO already have a forward motor, t case, and two seat interior. I'm going to make a custom hard body when I finish my C3 rebuild which also gained point deficiencies.

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[Greatscott]

Originally Posted by svt923

The Jeep XJ hard body, Killerbody LC70, and 4 door Yota are 12.3 inch wheelbase hard bodies. They aren't drop on fits but do have matching wheelbases to your current setup.

My plan would be:

Forward motor with t-case = 4 points
Hard body = 8 points
Simple full depth interior (dash, seats, and floor) = 4-5 points
Full size driver + passenger = 8 points
Metal sliders = 3 points
Front inner fenders = 1 point

That would get you into the mid to upper 50s for points while keeping your current chassis.

Thanks for the input!!!

I think I am going to go with the RC4WD 4-door Yota body. It is spendy, but I think it will work. I might have to put fender flares on to get it in spec.

The biggest challenge to get this body on the SCX10 chassis is the interference between the drop bed and and the shocks. My solution last time was to make custom mounts and use shorter back shocks, it worked, and actually crawled pretty well, but I think this time I might modify the bed.