Phildirt’s SCX10 mud and trail truck

[Phildirt]

Faux pinion brake mounted to servo horn. Just a fender washer drilled. Figured might as well make these huge ass pumpkins look like fake Rockwells lol. Will look just right with a little mud on it.

[Phildirt]

I think my next project will be to fab up some dummy headers. Not real impressed with what I’ve seen online for the prices and I think I can bend up some solid aluminum rod/tack them to a bracket and bolt somehow to the battery tray. May try with styrene first but it doesn’t hold its shape well when you bend it. Maybe a combo of the 2, aluminum rod for the header and styrene tube for the collector. Kind of need to wait for the body to see how much room I will have to work with. Thinking of mounting the body on the high side though to show off some of the fab work. Also daydreaming of a tilt body, hinged in the rear with Velcro in the front. I looked at scale engines in hopes of doing a mid engine mount setup a la monster truck peaking through the bed but they are way out of my budget.

[Phildirt]

Made a little cover for the rear to give it a more finished look. Just sheet styrene painted silver.

[Phildirt]

Body should be here Tuesday. After doing a ton of reading my plan is something like this: inside of windows black since I’m not doing an interior. I will airbrush dust/wiper impression on the front shield so it doesn’t look like a toy. Rest of body interior will be a mix of silver, brown, and black so scratches look weathered in different ages. Outside will be a silver base, color coat (have not decided between blue, red, or orange) with a very light patina wet sanding after it cures. Then a matte clear coat to finish it off but that’s still in the air. Goal is resto-mod mud truck, detailed chassis but purposely weathered body. I may hand pain a shop logo on the doors later, we will see. Then I am going to wire some tail/head lights. Then figure out bumpers, not going to use the ones that come with it.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

I am running these and I really like them. I know you said scale, but they aren’t glued so you can use your beadlocks. Figured I’d share cuz they’re pretty decently priced for a set of 5. Right at 5” tall


https://www.amazon.com/hobbysoul-5pc...1870982&sr=8-2


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[Phildirt]

Right on...I saw those but my bead locks are 1.9, not 2.2. I'd pay around the same for the 1.9 ProLine boggers on Amazon, they are 2 for $32 or so right now so $64 all in with free shipping, not a bad deal. I probably won't spring for tires until December so I have a while to debate with myself lol.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

Right on...I saw those but my bead locks are 1.9, not 2.2. I'd pay around the same for the 1.9 ProLine boggers on Amazon, they are 2 for $32 or so right now so $64 all in with free shipping, not a bad deal. I probably won't spring for tires until December so I have a while to debate with myself lol.

Yeah, I’d go with ProLines for sure.


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[Phildirt]

Added some scale styrene diamond plate sheet behind the lift brackets to hide the motor and tranny.

[Phildirt]

So I am kicking around the idea of doing 2 bodies, a show/shelf queen one with the 67 Chevy and a basher. Haven’t decided what I’ll use for body #2, thinking maybe a Honcho. Whatever I can find that is somewhat realistic looking...I’d go hard body but this thing is already going to be top heavy. Plus I have to stick to the 12.3 wheelbase because I don’t feel like fiddling with the links right now. Would just grab another 67 but not at $60, I think I can grab something else in the $40ish range. Open to thoughts/suggestions. I just know once I paint the Chevy I will be too scared to roll it.

[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

So I am kicking around the idea of doing 2 bodies, a show/shelf queen one with the 67 Chevy and a basher. Haven’t decided what I’ll use for body #2, thinking maybe a Honcho. Whatever I can find that is somewhat realistic looking...I’d go hard body but this thing is already going to be top heavy. Plus I have to stick to the 12.3 wheelbase because I don’t feel like fiddling with the links right now. Would just grab another 67 but not at $60, I think I can grab something else in the $40ish range. Open to thoughts/suggestions. I just know once I paint the Chevy I will be too scared to roll it.

Check out "J-concepts" trail truck series bodies...

They have a 80's Chevy, Ford and 90's Ford...

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

Check out "J-concepts" trail truck series bodies...

They have a 80's Chevy, Ford and 90's Ford...

Yeah the 80s Ford caught my eye a while back, may go that route. Would you happen to know if it is a true 1:10/will work with the 12.3? I don’t care if the axles arent perfectly centered. As long as it’s not too narrow, that was the issue I saw with some of the Proline bodies.

[lonleycreeper]

I have the 80's Ford body... 12.3 is perfect imo. It is also wide compared to some bodies. 8.5" or so at the doors....

Standard offset rims and tires get covered by the body, Only the wider rims and tires stick out.

Here is how I originally had mine setup.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

I think this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...35-00/p1145094

I personally think it would look great for a more realistic build. Hopefully it’s not too narrow.

Stats from AMain:

Length: 18.1" (460mm)
Width at doors: 5.9" (150mm)
Width at fenders: 7.4" (188mm)
Height: 5.3" (135mm)
Wheelbase: 12.3" (313mm)

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[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

I have the 80's Ford body... 12.3 is perfect imo. It is also wide compared to some bodies. 8.5" or so at the doors....

Standard offset rims and tires get covered by the body, Only the wider rims and tires stick out.

Here is how I originally had mine setup.

Awesome thanks. I’ll do some measuring but that might be the ticket. Is it just me or does the rocker look a little low? Seems like if it was a hair shorter there the cab might not look small. It’s going to be a beater so I have nothing to lose if I trim it off trying to find out lol.

[Phildirt]

Ehhh never mind I think that is a slider and not all rocker.

[Phildirt]

Excuse the gnarly servo. Will replace it with something nicer when it breaks. But: black vinyl tubing + cable bracket + silver paint + wire/connector/heat shrink tubing = “hydraulic steering”. 100% ‘pop on/pop off’ except where the wire attaches to the servo. I’ve noticed mud truck front ends tend to be very busy so replicating that. The wire just passes through the bracket nail hole so it moves with the link/won’t snap off. As with most of my tinkering this is prototype 1, may try something more scale on the ram end if it bugs me, that bracket is kind of large.

[Phildirt]

Ehhh I just realized there's a return line too...stand by lol

[Phildirt]

Well looks like Express Hobby (Ebay seller) thinks I should build a UMG instead of a Chevy because that's what they sent me. Checked the listing and now showing out of stock so I may be out of luck. Sucks because I really really liked that Chevy body. If they can't get another I'm going to ask for a refund on the difference, keep this cab, and start looking for another Chevy. Now I remember why I quit using Ebay years ago. So hard to contact anyone and get a straight answer these days.

[Phildirt]

I mean the UMG cab is cool and all but I don't feel like scratch building a rear cage/tire carrier/fuel cans lol. Plus it doesn't exactly scream "mud truck".

[Phildirt]

Much more betterer. Fluid in, fluid out.