Locked Up's SCX10 II Build

[Locked Up]

For the mirrors, we found the indentations for the holes to be a hair off making our mirrors to low. Not a big deal, but before you fully drill them out, we suggest double checking the locations so you do not need to make them oblong like we did.

[Locked Up]

We started to put stickers on this evening and...
Maybe I'm just "particular", but opted to cut the clear parts out of the windows because of bubbles.


Then I decided it looked a lot better so I cut all of them out, included the tinted ones.


This means I'll likely be grabbing some spray tint to go back in because yeah, I AM particular.
So for now, the masks stay in place....

[CarterFab]

I've been using that window cut technique for a while. Gives you all the trim without the funky sticker tint

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by CarterFab

I've been using that window cut technique for a while. Gives you all the trim without the funky sticker tint

Exactly!


I do wish I could have gotten the rear window to flatten out, because the defroster back there is a nice detail.
Probably could have poked holes and flattened them out but I also know once they get scratched I'd want to cut them out anyway.

[gsgraber92]

Has anyone ever tried a wet apply method with RC details? As a sign maker we always used a dawn and water solution on acrylic or glass surfaces to squeegee out any air. Funny thing is I've never thought to try it on my lexan bodies until just now. It takes a few drops of dawn to a bottle of water. Allows you to maneuver the decal around then squeegee out air.


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[Brandon]

Originally Posted by gsgraber92

Has anyone ever tried a wet apply method with RC details? As a sign maker we always used a dawn and water solution on acrylic or glass surfaces to squeegee out any air. Funny thing is I've never thought to try it on my lexan bodies until just now. It takes a few drops of dawn to a bottle of water. Allows you to maneuver the decal around then squeegee out air.


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Yes, it works great. Was just going to suggest that

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by gsgraber92

Has anyone ever tried a wet apply method with RC details? As a sign maker we always used a dawn and water solution on acrylic or glass surfaces to squeegee out any air. Funny thing is I've never thought to try it on my lexan bodies until just now. It takes a few drops of dawn to a bottle of water. Allows you to maneuver the decal around then squeegee out air.


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I remember doing that on "decals"...
I've never tried that with adhesive backed stickers though.


Dang.

Originally Posted by Brandon

Yes, it works great. Was just going to suggest that

Brandon.
How do I get extra stickers?

[ScaleFreak93]

I haven't heard of that with adhesive decals, how would you go about it to get the best results and have it stick?

[gsgraber92]

It just takes a little bit of dawn to a spray bottle of water. Test it on some extra decals. The dawn allows it to slide around while you position it. Then just use a soft cloth to rub out the air. It will stick better as the water evaporates. Just gently squeegee out air and excess water. Be sure to spray both the surface to adhere to and the decal before you try to apply the decal.


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[NitroDarwin]

As the rigs are made to hold up to be in water, I'm pretty sure water based adhesive decals would be falling off all the time

[CarterFab]

It does work well. Window tinters also use that method and works flawlessly.

[ScaleFreak93]

I ended up using the method and have never had an easier time stickering up a body honestly.

[Brandon]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

Brandon.
How do I get extra stickers?

I have nada. Still waiting on my extra clear bodies to show up!

[Locked Up]

Working on a few things....

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

The bigger stock ends might be more durable but without testing there is no way to know their merits at the moment.
I will mention, the shop H2 SCX10 trackbar has been on the same m3 rod ends for years, without issue. It weights 9lbs and we are not gentle with it.
We've trashed lots of link rod ends on it, but never the trackbar.

M3 rod ends are usually just fine, unless you start putting them on multiple angles. So as long as the trackbar threaded ends are co-linear, they hold up well.

What we will do is offer one that is a direct replacement and accepts the M4 rod ends ... and another that is for builders.

Bending is not all that complicated, but like I said, keep the ends co-linear so that the rods ends are in a 90* push/pull without side loading.

I like the option of M3 or M4, personally I'd prefer an M4 trackbar, keep up the good work.

I like where this build is headin so far.

Originally Posted by Locked Up

Our thought is that people will end up lowering the ride height, and the extra compression may become necessary.

Yes, lower ride height and little less flex wheels better, more stable and more predictable.

[khj94704]

This has been a great thread to read while going through my own build and waiting on some parts. I'd love to see a kit with the drag link and bent panhard in m3, the bulkier ends only seem to cause clearance issues and I'm not convinced these are parts that need the additional strength as you've already mentioned in the thread.

[Locked Up]

Got a production prototype of the Max Clearance Trackbar installed.



Much better!


And of course we put in some OT Shafts for rear end beef.

No diff covers ... yet ... but we did add in Black Link Mounts to clean up at least part of the axle housings.

[fr8cture]

Any way you could bend one like that and then bend it around the link mount aswell? Mines right over the link mount.

[TintedOut]

Originally Posted by CarterFab

It does work well. Window tinters also use that method and works flawlessly.

I cocur.

[ossipeecrawler]

Ill take a couple when will they be in stock?