ToyZuki's SCX10.2

[Jeepy84]

Originally Posted by AngelowDoom

I have one more question though. Since I bought the beeftubes scx10 2 axles and used the Toyzuki kit. The original kit is almost entirely intact. So with a bearing kit, new locker and axle gears, and stub axles. I am only missing the gears in the t-case/transmission and spur assembly. And most of this is easy to get hold of. But can't seem to find the gears for the t-case/transmission. Do anyone know where to get them, or do anyone offer a kit? Want to build up the rest of all leftover kit parts.

I got mine from Deadlock Racing

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[fr8cture]

Originally Posted by AngelowDoom

Had to use SDI propellershaft for clearance in the front, would not work with stock or MIP. Also had to make a S bend on the panhard to get full compression.

Why did you have to use a SDI shaft? MIP clears fine for me.

[AngelowDoom]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

Why did you have to use a SDI shaft? MIP clears fine for me.

Cus I built it pretty low. I reduced the length of the shocks by 6mm and mounted them lower than stock.

[AngelowDoom]

Built this scx10 2 from the leftovers from the Toyzuki build. Put in a OG transmission and bought new axle internals.
This will be sold to bring the build cost of the Toyzuki down
Cool that the Toyzuki kit includes so much that most of the scx10 2 kit is not used, which allows things like this to be done.
The original kit body was sold long ago, so I put on this honcho style thing.

[AngelowDoom]

Got the body for my Toyzuki build today. Thinking about a flatbed in balsa wood, and a seatbench/battery box in the hole where the foam block is. And maybe cut of the shock hoops in the back and put on some more realistic ones.

[ToyZuki]

Now that's a Build I cant wait to see finished!


I updated the thread with pics hosted by imgur instead of photobucket. Sorry for the gap in time with no pics guys.

[ThrashingDragon]

Originally Posted by AngelowDoom

Got the body for my Toyzuki build today. Thinking about a flatbed in balsa wood, and a seatbench/battery box in the hole where the foam block is. And maybe cut of the shock hoops in the back and put on some more realistic ones.

What body is that?


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[AngelowDoom]

Originally Posted by ThrashingDragon

What body is that?

It's a Parma old school Ford.

[DGUNSMITH]

My V2. I've been putting it through hell testing & tuning it this week. So much for the pretty truck bed liner on the ScarerFab armor. Can some one recommend a good light weight 3S. I run some long 20+ minute comps (SORRCA) G6 & long club trail rides. I see some guys running what looks like flight packs. I'm currently running SMC 4400 2S shorties 227g.

[bryner250]

Dude your v2 looks insane! I might have to pick up one of those frames and build myself one!


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[Jeepy84]

Got my V2 up and running in C1 for King of the Gurus, at King of the Gurus, lol.

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[nmiller]

Can anyone post pics of their panhard bar? I could use some help with materials used and specs. Thanks!

[Waitwhatsthat?]

Just finished building my V2 rig, and can't decide on whether or not to run the overdrive front. Just driving it in the house, it feels kind of jittery and the motor does seam to heat up pretty quickly. Kind of concerned about how it's going to handle a 3-4 hour crawl. I did drop the motor pinion down 2 teeth from stock.

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[Col_Sanders]

The overdrive definitely makes it tougher on your motor and you will use more battery but IMO the performance is worth it. You have to gear a bit lower than normal but once you get that figured out, it should be fine...I have done several long trail runs with mine running in the overdrive configuration.

BTW If you're driving on carpet, that has far more traction than rocks/dirt will so it is going to be harder on it than if you were trailing.

[Waitwhatsthat?]

Well I took it on it's first run and it was working well for about 30 minutes then I started to notice a loss of torque and the motor was stalling out very easily. I didn't have a temp gun on me but, using the finger method I could tell it was too hot. The other thing I noticed was that my battery life was extremely short. I usually get about 1.5 hours out of a 2200 3s pack and I was lucky this time to get 45min. Im fairly positive that it's due to the me switching from a savox 1256 to a Holmes hv 500 servo. I figure that running the Holmes on 8.4v vs. the savox on 6v, was really draining my small batteries. Now I'm not sure if this extra draw in power had any effect on the motor or not. I'm going to take the motor out and inspect it. If it appears to be ok, then I'll put the savox back in and gear it down some more and take it on another test run.

The good thing is that the chassis performed great and even with the issues I was having, it out performed everyone in our group.

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[whitrzac]

I get a minimum of 2hrs of runtime from a 2200 3s. Usually after a 2hr run they are only at 3.8v/cell.


Is your battery FUBAR?


Brushed setup?

[Col_Sanders]

What are you running for gearing? I'm running 10/56 and it does great with my Castle brushless setup. I ran 11/56 for a little bit and the motor got pretty warm, but outside temps were higher at the time.

Originally Posted by whitrzac

I get a minimum of 2hrs of runtime from a 2200 3s. Usually after a 2hr run they are only at 3.8v/cell.


Is your battery FUBAR?


Brushed setup?

I get ~45 minutes out of my 2200 packs on this truck. Those same packs last at least twice as long on my non overdriven trucks. I have used 3 different motors and 2 different ESCs on this truck and the run times are all pretty similar.

[Waitwhatsthat?]

My batteries appear to be in good shape. They still balance well and show no signs of puffyness. That said I have 2 new batteries on their way, so I'll see how the new ones compare to the old ones.

For gearing I was running 15/56 with the stock chassis and a 35t torquemaster motor. No heat issues at all. I dropped it down to a 13/56 for the toyzuki chassis.

So I've removed the motor and made sure there was no binding in the drive train. It rolled smoothly. I opened up the motor and it is for sure burnt. Brushes are still good but the windings look charred and it smells bad.

I have an event coming up so I bit the bullet and finally decided to go brushless. I currently have a castle 1900kv setup sitting on the bench. So what gearing would be a good starting point for this new setup. I've never ran brushless in a Crawler so I have no idea where to start with gearing.

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[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by Waitwhatsthat?

My batteries appear to be in good shape. They still balance well and show no signs of puffyness. That said I have 2 new batteries on their way, so I'll see how the new ones compare to the old ones.

For gearing I was running 15/56 with the stock chassis and a 35t torquemaster motor. No heat issues at all. I dropped it down to a 13/56 for the toyzuki chassis.

So I've removed the motor and made sure there was no binding in the drive train. It rolled smoothly. I opened up the motor and it is for sure burnt. Brushes are still good but the windings look charred and it smells bad.

I have an event coming up so I bit the bullet and finally decided to go brushless. I currently have a castle 1900kv setup sitting on the bench. So what gearing would be a good starting point for this new setup. I've never ran brushless in a Crawler so I have no idea where to start with gearing.

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13/56 is probably a good place to start with the 1900kv on 3s.

[Col_Sanders]

Its cooling off so you might be ok with 12/56. I'd keep an 11t on hand though.