Gmade RSD Suspension?

[quark]

Originally Posted by monster 550

^^^Step 6 shows the piggybacks piston and the pistons o-rings which seat inside the plastic cap. The o-ring seals stay in the aluminum housings.

Awesome, just the info I was looking for. Thanks!



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[MattySlimz1987]

Originally Posted by quark

Awesome, just the info I was looking for. Thanks!



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Glad I was able to point out what it was you were talking about for monster550 to clarify even though I was wrong. A large portion of the p/b aluminum housing is bare, only really a hole to stick a screwdriver in to adjust.

[monster 550]

Originally Posted by chopan84

What top mount bushings fit these?? Bought some used and need these

What bushings do you mean? Like the pivot ball thing the screw goes through? If so the stock gmade sawback aluminum ones are the same design as the plastic ones these shocks come with.

Originally Posted by quark

Awesome, just the info I was looking for. Thanks!
No problem, glad you got the answer you were looking for.


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[chopan84]

Yep..thats all i needed to know....thanks

[MattySlimz1987]

Originally Posted by monster 550

The beef tips will work, but need to be slightly drilled out for the shaft, and you'll need to use the axial rod ends.

I too am using the 0.4 and 0.8 spring rates from the Krawler tuning set.

Not sure if the Bomber/Wraith beef tips were available as of that post, but I picked those up because the dimensions were close enough.

They did end up working with a little effort. No need for drilling and retained the Gmade rod ends which seem high quality. Couldn't resist getting the AR44 brass link mounts for front and rear when I picked up the beef tips.

Now for a re-dial in before this truck enters in a 1.9 class 2 scale comp this Saturday.

[Megalodon]

Originally Posted by MattySlimz1987

I too am using the 0.4 and 0.8 spring rates from the Krawler tuning set.

Not sure if the Bomber/Wraith beef tips were available as of that post, but I picked those up because the dimensions were close enough.

They did end up working with a little effort. No need for drilling and retained the Gmade rod ends which seem high quality. Couldn't resist getting the AR44 brass link mounts for front and rear when I picked up the beef tips.

Now for a re-dial in before this truck enters in a 1.9 class 2 scale comp this Saturday.

Are those a nice improvement over the stockers? How well are they holding your oil?

[MattySlimz1987]

Originally Posted by Megalodon

Are those a nice improvement over the stockers? How well are they holding your oil?

So far so good, after putting on the beef tips its shortened the travel slightly and stiffened it up a bit. I'm still using same spring rates, but I did adjust the dampening by loosening it up (main reservoir lock nut) almost to the end of the threads on the front. Adjustments to the piggyback reservoir are the hardest to tune. I did get dialed in after quite a bit of time on the rocks/trail. I found that the rear should be a stiffer by tuning the piggyback as opposed to the main top lock nut.

As far as leaking, again on these like I did the stockers, I only used greenslime on the seals and they barely leak at all, especially compared to the the originals. I've yet to come across someone who actually crawls and trails their truck and says that their shocks do not leak. If you actually use your truck and are crawling around tackling big lines, it will put the shocks to the test and they are going to leak, but when I say that these do, I mean very little as in slight residual. These have been on for a while now with many packs and I still do not feel the need to pull them off to be topped off with oil.
Yes there are other options that you might not find leaking, but do they have that scale look? Is it going to work like it should for this special application? Even the $90 (for 2!) PL Ultra's leak, accounts from my own eyes, not sure if they were assembled correctly or not but there was oil on all 4 corners of the axles.

If your looking at getting these for your truck, I say go for it. It was fun putting them together (no sarcasm intended) and the price is where they should be. Definitley buy them new so you can start from scratch on where to tune and so that you can use the piston count you want, I put in the 4 piston option on all 4. I hope this helps whomever has these on their shock option list in the future.

[fr8cture]

Originally Posted by redemon

I have a set of 80mm RSD's non reservoir for sale.

You are breaking forum rules

[Traulus]

Want to get a set of these,wonder what springs are soft enough for a scx10?

[Dbx]

Originally Posted by redemon

No one will buy my brand new 80mm Non reservoir ones.

Advertise them for Twin Hammers. People who buy the Scorched Parts suspension set up will want those shocks.

[Honcho907]

I like these RsD piggy backs alot, im usin them with my RTR springs. I felt the springs they came with were a little stiff f or my liking. Also,They have no droop so I made a drop shackle type set up to help remedy that

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[michaellawhorn21]

Originally Posted by Honcho907

I like these RsD piggy backs alot, im usin them with my RTR springs. I felt the springs they came with were a little stiff f or my liking. Also,They have no droop so I made a drop shackle type set up to help remedy that

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Are you running 93mm or 103mm


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[MattySlimz1987]

Originally Posted by michaellawhorn21

Are you running 93mm or 103mm


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These RSD piggybacks only come in 80,90 and 100mm.
Mine have held up great so far with very minimal leakage utilizing AE greenslime and Teflon taping the threads. The Beeftubes “Beeftips” for Wraith/Bomber shocks fit these and help out with weight down low.

[ljl23]

So to clarify this: To get these shocks you will need:
1) The RC4WD Springs

Do you need to get new pistons? Or do you need to get new spring perches to run the RC4wd springs?>

[ppcsurfr]

After reading through this thread numerous times, and doing further research on spring options, I got myself a set of 100mm RSD Piggybacks for my SCX10-1 Deadbolt. Some of you might ask why the 100mm and not the 90mm version? Because the compressed length of the 100mm RSDs are similar to the compressed length of the stock shocks with bumps stops. This puts the rear axle (at full compression) almost hitting the chassis rails. Furthermore it also adds 10mm of down travel for the suspension.


These are the test cuts I did with a yellow 60mm spring.

With the target of having the springs compress under the rigs weight at 2/3 the suspension travel (with 1/3 remaining up-travel), it didn't take me long to find the right springs for it. I used the rear springs off of an SCX10-2 kit (Cherokee) which uses the white springs rated at 1.13lbs/inch. I cut off one full coil and formed the open end to have a flat end and close it. This ended up at around 56mm long, about 2mm longer than the G Made springs, but it has given me good results. At ride height the shocks/springs are compressed at 18mm with 12mm of remaining upward travel.