First scx10 ii

[Rjz dad]

Ok guys so my first 1.9" scx 2 kit should be here today
I'm normally a 2.2" guy but I wanted to get into somthing
Well scale my intent was to built it and replace as break
And maybe upgrade if I'm in the area if that makes sense
I am super stoked but is there any thing I should know before
Hand you know the 2am omg now I have to wait till tomorrw
Things ?
Im going to use a mamba x 1900 kv
And my tried and true futaba 9157
For starters also axial bead locks cause I hate glueing tires
I just feel like it's a waste of tires and time and energy and glue and
Perfectly good swear words any words of wisdom on the scx10 2 kit would be appreciated

[blkbart00]

I just built mine a few weeks ago. All straight forward as can be. Just build it and drive it. Don't over tighten the screws. I did glue the wheels and don't mind them. I believe that less rotational mass the better.

I did use SS hardware when building mine and AVID bearings. Not needed just my preference. I also used the Vanquish topshaft in the trans and Locked up RC panhard to gain clearance. Once I finished the build I then moved the bumpers in closer to gain clearance.

Enjoy the build

[NitroDarwin]

I had to shim rear axial input to get gear mesh good, front is good because it is pushed but rear gets pulled in. And I had in/out play in spur gear in transmission, a pin thru the plastic spacer and exrta hole in shaft removed the play

[MattySlimz1987]

2 things only that should be done to the kit version where I personally believe they are manufacturing and/or design flaws, and they have to do with play/slop. Play in moving mechanical parts really get to me maybe not as much to others.

1. I and many others highly reccomend the transmission top shaft from Vanquish USA. This is to iradicate the slop/play in the output shaft (spur gear shaft).
http://www.vanquishproducts.com/scx1...ion-top-shaft/

2. 2 5×11×4 bearings where Axial omissed for reasons I'd rather not even mention. These are to be put on the rear axle shaft towards the middle where the clamping lockout's screws are to be tightened up (off topic but NEVER over tighten those), position it in the cut-out in the plastic housing. This will keep the rear end having play inside the axle housing, which IS noticable. You may have them in your parts bag and they may have updated the manual since the latest release of the new batches of this model since it was on hold for months, I considerably doubt it though.
http://www.fasteddybearings.com/trax...-2rs-10-units/
This is where the bearings should be installed, I used Traxxas style blue sealed bearings.

[allanon1965]

I cant see how that bearing not being there would allow the axle to slide around, the hex, pin and wheel will keep the axle where its supposed to be. I think the bearing will allow for more support of the axle shaft and also give the housing more solid support for the clamping lockout to clamp on but thats it.

mine were missing and I had zero slop in my axles...

[MattySlimz1987]

There is quite a bit of slop from left to right without the bearings. I can't think of anthing else it could be. After I put in bearings my play was gone. Everything remained the same including the torque on the wheel nuts. I think there might even be a YT video on this particular "not so big issue". If there isn't, there should be.. heck, I'll do one if theres none. Something to do tommorow with the free time on my hands..

[Rjz dad]

So the bumpers looked a little well plastic so I threw so bed liner on and looks a ton better


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[Rjz dad]

Next on the list figure out the stereo system
I'm thinking maybe somthing like this what you guys think ?


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[Rjz dad]

Body's done still waiting on interior





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[Rjz dad]

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[MeanTT]

You may be disappointed with 1900KV. I run 3550 in mine on 3S - sensored of course!

[Rjz dad]

I have a 3800 in my bomber
And also a 2850 lying around
I've been hearing that a lots about the
Lower kv just not enough wheel speed
I'll probably use the 2850 for now
I'm going to order some Holmes hobby
Motors I heard they are outstanding
What's the difference in the stubby and reg cans ?

[MeanTT]

Originally Posted by Rjz dad

I have a 3800 in my bomber
And also a 2850 lying around
I've been hearing that a lots about the
Lower kv just not enough wheel speed
I'll probably use the 2850 for now
I'm going to order some Holmes hobby
Motors I heard they are outstanding
What's the difference in the stubby and reg cans ?

Greater length means more magnets and more power. Stubby means it fits in tighter places. I can get a Castle 3800 in my Twin Hammers of course, but a true 550 can won't git since I have done some mods to the steering. Some folks use stubbies for tighter places, like trucks with built interiors, etc.

Best of luck!

[Rjz dad]

I kinda figured that but I don't want to assume anything
ThNks for your input