Akumu - SCX10 II build

[v33]

been running my SCX10 for a few months and hafe been enjoying that rig tremendously. I think i more or less see the potential in the SCX10 II on how it will benefit my driving in the trail so i got one.

All i can say is that the chassis plastic parts on this kit are soft, so i opted to upgrade some parts without hesitation (i've had a fair amount of breakage on the version 1 kit).

here are some of the pics from my build, more parts are in oder...











I moved some of the old parts from the SCX10, my old SR5 body for some reason does not fit properly so I am painting a new SR5 body today.





I plan to hit the local park trail tomorrow to test this. more to come...

Thanks for viewing!

[MattySlimz1987]

You will enjoy the ii just as much as your og version. The latest addition of the ii has some slight differences than when the first 10ii was released but this still is the only kit available. You will still notice the what I call “Laffy Taffy” like plastic it has just like your original. It’s a good thing for most because it leaves room on the table for what your intentions are, most people prefer a lighter rig for competing and only upgrade the parts that are vulnerable to breakage I.e panhard link mount thats integrated in the front left shock hoop.

On my kit I didn’t even want to install the included plastic plastic servo horn, it was the first and only real breakage I’ve had on my kit besides a spun ring in and locker in the front. This was something new for me coming from the basher/MT world where every servo for steering has a saver, I myself am still a newbie to crawling though my first crawler before the ii was a OG scx CRC Jeep and loved it before I sold it. Swapping your SR5 body onto your ii will benefit you greatly as you will notice the larger Cherokee body is heavier and with the included roof rack, it only makes things worse as far as your cog situation is concerned.

The newly designed axles are far better than the originals, though much lighter, upgrades for weight can be had for cheap and the final drive ratio has been reduced from 2.92 to a 3.75 for a more subtle and controlled crawl in the tough stuff. The new front universals allow almost a 45 degree steering rate! Way better than the old xvds. I’m running a brushless motor totally designed for crawling from the highly acclaimed company Holmes Hobbies. With the new axles and kit version trans it equals out to a pretty good crawl ratio, with that comes the 2-speed option and in my opinion was an excellent option for Axial to include. Its great for users that do trailing and than jump into some technical stuff, allowing a higher turn cheaper brushed motor to become a better/budget friendly option all around if going brushless with its expensive sensor port esc isn’t your thing. The ii’s battery placement from factory was really taken into consideration over the the original. I think you’ll also find the kits aluminum links a nice upgrade in stock form as well with the new chassis mounted servo, that functions and looks great. I’ve done some upgrades myself to the the iis plastic parts including aluminum mid-rear chassis braces and mid-front frame braces along with aluminum shock hoops.

I like the unpainted Cherokee body that came in the kit and painted her up but found she was too top heavy and figured it was time to change it up. I painted up some Yota Sr5 bodies also and kept one as a basher shell and a BTTF tribute rig with functioning leds throughout and small details like wipers, handles front grille.

[Crawler Cads]

Do I see a hobbywing 1080? Such a popular ESC now
Nice build, how's she running?

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[v33]

Originally Posted by Crawler Cads

Do I see a hobbywing 1080? Such a popular ESC now
Nice build, how's she running?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Yes 1080, i moved most of my old electronics from the SCX10 to the SCX10 II... just left the motor since i have been using that since June.

I wasn't thinking i would be blown away by the current setup I opted to go with... happy to report she is way better than what i expected. I have less weight on this rig and it climbs better.

did the first test run today at a local park trail... photos below.

Originally Posted by MattySlimz1987

>8 snip 8<
I like the unpainted Cherokee body that came in the kit and painted her up but found she was too top heavy and figured it was time to change it up. I painted up some Yota Sr5 bodies also and kept one as a basher shell and a BTTF tribute rig with functioning leds throughout and small details like wipers, handles front grille.

Thanks for the info MattySlimz1987.

A friend drives the cherokee stock body on his v2, I noticed it was top heavy just from eyeballin it and decided not to use it when i decided to get this kit. I have an old dingo which i pinched front and rear... still found it heavy. The SR5 gives me room to lower the body and get better performance, imho. I have an old SR5 for bashing and will be painting another one tomorrow (they are not proline and have the bed and cab integrated), I also have an unpainted Proline SR5 which is waiting for a honcho bed. I think i will be using SR5's for a while.

I am quite happy with the current setup and she performed way better than expected. here are some photos of my test run today at a local park trail...









the only thing i want for this rig are alloy tranny plate ans some alloy braces... the flex is making my OC go gaga!

Thanks for viewing!

[Teng]

I like the look of the extra speed shocks and wonder how these shocks perform? I've never used scale shocks in my life though.

[v33]

Originally Posted by Teng

I like the look of the extra speed shocks and wonder how these shocks perform? I've never used scale shocks in my life though.

this is the first time i have used droop style shocks... and they went through the rocks solidly. i am not an expert at gauging the real performance from a technical stand point, but i really like the way this rig performes with this configuration.

the way i have the shock built is with only a few drops of oil to lube the internals. i noticed some shaft binding when i have the rig sitting idle for quite some time, but i just lift the rig up and all is good. my other shock on the SCX10 v1 also displays this issue but this has worst binding that that one.

hth

[v33]

I wanted to use a honcho bed on this rig since i got it but could not find a brand new one locally and didn't want to import one this past holiday since the postal service was at full capacity.

Was lucky to chance upon a used but in great condition honcho cab with bed, the cab is a little scratched but i dont really care much for it since a Proline SR5 is waiting to be grafted to this.






found out that i need to flip the tranny so i can avoid hacking up a perfectly good honcho bed.






The servo was moved up front to the bumper area using a Vanquish bumper/cms mount.

I had to DIY an electronics plate to fit the battery, esc and radio. There was only 2 screws holding the tranny to the skid plate, had to make a temporary alloy support for the tranny and plan to make a better one in the near future.




Thanks for viewing!

[v33]

My local dristro had a surprise for me today, hope you know what this is



Pls dont ask me what brand it is, i have no idea. If you have an idea about the manufacturer, share it pls.

Installation was flawless, hope to test it tomorrow.

Thanks for viewing!

[v33]

hmm... cant find info on that

update:
found it on RCMart... just a slight OD compared to stock.

[v33]

been testing this rig for a few weeks now, from none OD gear to the newly installed gears. the climbing power has definitely improved specially with the weight transferred to the front due to battery and electronics placement.

took it out for a fun competition we had earlier, instead of a SORCCA type comp we opted to go for a time attack type. it was a first for us here in our community. i was choosen to do the 1st trial run, i was using my scx10.2 with the proline hyrax installed which had vanquish 475 wheel hubs (gave me a 9.5 inch track width) and 40 grams weights on each front tire and boom racing 2 stage foams ... i had a hard time climbing loose soil (around 35 to 40º), the hyrax just kept digging into the soil, so my run took 17++ minutes inclusive of the point added for hitting gates and stuff. on my final run, i opted to use my swampers which had stock wheel hub and no weights, oh and ci closed cell foams... this made the runner a lot easier. if not for some errors on my part (got distracted) i could have made better time, ended getting 14+ minutes and taking 3rd place.



thanks for viewing!

[Johan_Eriksson]

Originally Posted by v33

My local dristro had a surprise for me today, hope you know what this is







Pls dont ask me what brand it is, i have no idea. If you have an idea about the manufacturer, share it pls.



Installation was flawless, hope to test it tomorrow.



Thanks for viewing!

I am sorry to tell you but those are junk. These gears are to small so pot metal don’t work. Although there is hot racing gears and they give like 10% overdrive. I tried these pot metal crap and striped after a few minutes if you put some power to them..
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263076904578



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[v33]

Originally Posted by Johan_Eriksson

I am sorry to tell you but those are junk. These gears are to small so pot metal don’t work. Although there is hot racing gears and they give like 10% overdrive. I tried these pot metal crap and striped after a few minutes if you put some power to them..
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263076904578
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wow, thanks for the headsup... will get those. so far with my brushed motor it is working quite well, but will definitely get one to replace this with.

[Johan_Eriksson]

Originally Posted by v33

wow, thanks for the headsup... will get those. so far with my brushed motor it is working quite well, but will definitely get one to replace this with.

There is thread here on rc crawler showing how bad they are if search for them.


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[Teng]

Sometimes We can’t blame them, but maybe we just don’t shims the gears properly.


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[Johan_Eriksson]

Originally Posted by Teng

Sometimes We can’t blame them, but maybe we just don’t shims the gears properly.


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Not always but pot metal when gears are these small don’t work. I did shim mine and did not help.


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[v33]

I spoke with my supplier, the gears coems from Singapore or Malaysia (sorry forgot). He told me he was aware of the issues spreading on the net, the thing is the gears are supplied with warranty so any issues can be addressed in case of failure. anyways, just to have peace of mind i'll get a pair from ebay and have them on hand as backups.

btw, there is no slop... tested it to make sure when i installed them.

[v33]

these arrived 2 days ago, parts for the scx10.2 and scx10.1. installed and them to get ready for the trail this coming sunday. will post pics soon, really love that bike trail we visit. we use the edge of that park for crawling...







not sure why Vanquish still uses the old Metric system for some parts of their products and then the English system on other areas like this axel link mount . Axial uses the English system and makes it compatible in the international market. I really hate the metric system specially coming from a graphic design background where the English measurement system is norm.

thanks for viewing!

[Johan_Eriksson]

Originally Posted by v33

I spoke with my supplier, the gears coems from Singapore or Malaysia (sorry forgot). He told me he was aware of the issues spreading on the net, the thing is the gears are supplied with warranty so any issues can be addressed in case of failure. anyways, just to have peace of mind i'll get a pair from ebay and have them on hand as backups.

btw, there is no slop... tested it to make sure when i installed them.

So I can take my gears and get new ones?


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[v33]

Originally Posted by Johan_Eriksson

So I can take my gears and get new ones?


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what do you mean... you have a set of OD gears that broke?

i have not spoken with my supplier regarding replacement proceedures... but he is pretty keen on stuf like these, are really good person loved by many and into the hobby not just the business side of it.

[Johan_Eriksson]

Originally Posted by v33

what do you mean... you have a set of OD gears that broke?



i have not spoken with my supplier regarding replacement proceedures... but he is pretty keen on stuf like these, are really good person loved by many and into the hobby not just the business side of it.

You can say they broke yeah. Not gonna replace them though I run a toyzuki with od now anyways





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