SCX10II Cherokee Kit Question

[Boogie]

Picked up a new kit from Tower with the handy $40 off coupon. I've been wanting to build a new kit for a while now and hand my trusty SCX10 Deadbolt over to my 5 year old. I'm also apparently in the minority who actually like the Cherokee body and I'll probably paint it white just like on the box, or maybe patriot blue, who knows. Anyhow, I am going to upgrade the links to a full set of Incisions and already have a set of steel SSD beadlocks in lieu of the glue on's that come with the kit.

I have one question though, I have noticed there were a few issues when the kit first came out with the top shaft of the transmission. Has that issue been fixed with the latest iterations of this kit, or am I going to have to tweak it? I did notice Vanquish makes a replacement top shaft, but I've been unable to find it anywhere in stock.

Also, part of the reason why I went with the kit is because of the multi piece AR44's versus the one piece design on the RBK, but I noticed a thread mention something about the splines stripping where the c-hubs meet the axle housing. Is that a chronic issue or fairly isolated? FWIW, this rig will be strictly going to be a scale trail hiking rig with a brushed setup, 27t Torquemaster on 3S for a little bit of oomph every now and then, so it's not going to be crazy powerful or be subjected to competition level use and abuse.

[hawks]

Definitely try and find the Vanquish top shaft. I had issues with my transmission and the Vanquish shaft smoothed it out a lot.

[lszomb]

You can diy a spacer with the spear tube part from kit part tree. Will still leave you some play for upper shaft, but should not any be a concern any more.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Ironhide13]

Originally Posted by Boogie

Picked up a new kit from Tower with the handy $40 off coupon. I've been wanting to build a new kit for a while now and hand my trusty SCX10 Deadbolt over to my 5 year old. I'm also apparently in the minority who actually like the Cherokee body and I'll probably paint it white just like on the box, or maybe patriot blue, who knows. Anyhow, I am going to upgrade the links to a full set of Incisions and already have a set of steel SSD beadlocks in lieu of the glue on's that come with the kit.

I have one question though, I have noticed there were a few issues when the kit first came out with the top shaft of the transmission. Has that issue been fixed with the latest iterations of this kit, or am I going to have to tweak it? I did notice Vanquish makes a replacement top shaft, but I've been unable to find it anywhere in stock.

Also, part of the reason why I went with the kit is because of the multi piece AR44's versus the one piece design on the RBK, but I noticed a thread mention something about the splines stripping where the c-hubs meet the axle housing. Is that a chronic issue or fairly isolated? FWIW, this rig will be strictly going to be a scale trail hiking rig with a brushed setup, 27t Torquemaster on 3S for a little bit of oomph every now and then, so it's not going to be crazy powerful or be subjected to competition level use and abuse.

I've had the XJ kit version for over a year now. I liked the XJ body, painted a flat tan and even added on the JCR style spare tire carrier, and ran it for a while, until a few rollovers started some tears in the body. The spare tire carrier added to the scale looks, but was too heavy for the plastic bumper and bumper mount, and you could see it bending down.

For your questions, I'm not an hardcore comp crawler, so take it FWIW:

For motors, I started with a 27t Axial, changed out to a 35t RC4WD, running 2S with both, offered plenty of speed (faster than I care to walk, anyway).

I never replaced the top shaft with a Vanquish shaft, and I've never had any issues. I'd suggest building it as is, and trying it.

Again, not a full comp rig, but I've done some pretty tough trails and some fun comps, and I've not stripped the C-hubs spline yet.

I will say, the only real issues I had are with the steering; it would turn the wheels farther one direction more than the other. Replacing the stock plastic servo arm with an aluminum one helped, but swapping out to SSD's double bent titanium steering/panhard links helped even more.

[cjhike]

I have not had any trouble with the top shaft on my kit. Also why the link upgrade so quick as the kit ones are pretty sweet...

The upgraded wheels however are a great choice!

[GrimmTheTourist]

I have to kit versions; in the newer one I replaced the top shaft in the old one I did nothing. Run it since 2016 with a brushless combo and have zero issues with the spur gear.

Agree with the links. Not needed. What you could do is replace the rod ends with the ssd ones plus their spacers. The Axial rod ends are too soft. You can still run them for a year or a half, but you will replace them at some point.

Regarding the incisions links. I also have them on one kit - the rod ends in the package are NOT the same length as the original Axial and the end balls are too small. Your links wont have the correct length without spacers. The links itself are good quality though. Together with the ssd rod ends and spacers, they are a good combo.

I never had any issues with the axle, but I replaced them with curries after a year and on the second kit I am using the SSD Pro44.
I would guess, with your combo, you wont have any issues. I never had with the bl system.

Have fun with your Cherokee.

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by cjhike

I have not had any trouble with the top shaft on my kit. Also why the link upgrade so quick as the kit ones are pretty sweet...

The upgraded wheels however are a great choice!

I've heard the axial link ends are pretty soft and wear out quick. Has this not been your experience?

Originally Posted by GrimmTheTourist

I have to kit versions; in the newer one I replaced the top shaft in the old one I did nothing. Run it since 2016 with a brushless combo and have zero issues with the spur gear.

Agree with the links. Not needed. What you could do is replace the rod ends with the ssd ones plus their spacers. The Axial rod ends are too soft. You can still run them for a year or a half, but you will replace them at some point.

Regarding the incisions links. I also have them on one kit - the rod ends in the package are NOT the same length as the original Axial and the end balls are too small. Your links wont have the correct length without spacers. The links itself are good quality though. Together with the ssd rod ends and spacers, they are a good combo.

I never had any issues with the axle, but I replaced them with curries after a year and on the second kit I am using the SSD Pro44.
I would guess, with your combo, you wont have any issues. I never had with the bl system.

Have fun with your Cherokee.

I got really excited about the SSD link end spacers, but can't find them in stock anywhere. I'm all about going the cheaper route of using revo rod ends with spacers, just gotta find the spacers somewhere.

Originally Posted by Ironhide13

I've had the XJ kit version for over a year now. I liked the XJ body, painted a flat tan and even added on the JCR style spare tire carrier, and ran it for a while, until a few rollovers started some tears in the body. The spare tire carrier added to the scale looks, but was too heavy for the plastic bumper and bumper mount, and you could see it bending down.

For your questions, I'm not an hardcore comp crawler, so take it FWIW:

For motors, I started with a 27t Axial, changed out to a 35t RC4WD, running 2S with both, offered plenty of speed (faster than I care to walk, anyway).

I never replaced the top shaft with a Vanquish shaft, and I've never had any issues. I'd suggest building it as is, and trying it.

Again, not a full comp rig, but I've done some pretty tough trails and some fun comps, and I've not stripped the C-hubs spline yet.

I will say, the only real issues I had are with the steering; it would turn the wheels farther one direction more than the other. Replacing the stock plastic servo arm with an aluminum one helped, but swapping out to SSD's double bent titanium steering/panhard links helped even more.

Yeah, I get the kit in a day or so and I'm going to build up the trans first to see if there's any play in it. I'm hoping Axial did some retooling and fixed the issue. I'm definitely going with an aluminum servo horn as I'm using a 400oz servo, hah. I'm going to attempt to find some SSD rod end spacers and switch to revo rod ends first, then look at upgrading links.

[JatoTheRipper]

Axial plastics suck and that includes their link ends. You can replace them to start (Traxxas makes the best) or you can just build it, run it and stop worrying.

People suggested the Vanquish top shaft which I bought, but the trans is still a gritty clunker.

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Axial plastics suck and that includes their link ends. You can replace them to start (Traxxas makes the best) or you can just build it, run it and stop worrying.

People suggested the Vanquish top shaft which I bought, but the trans is still a gritty clunker.

It's impossible to find a set of the SSD spacers to use with Traxxas rod ends. If I can't find the spacers soon, I'll just sell the links that come with the kit and order the Incisions. How long do the Axial rod ends last before they start getting worn out or sloppy?

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Boogie

It's impossible to find a set of the SSD spacers to use with Traxxas rod ends. If I can't find the spacers soon, I'll just sell the links that come with the kit and order the Incisions. How long do the Axial rod ends last before they start getting worn out or sloppy?

I'm not sure what spacers are sold by SSD, but spacers of various sizes can be easily found from other sources if you know the sizes you need.

Depending how hard you run the truck, the Axial rod ends will start stretching on your first run. Remember, the Axial rod ends also have plastic balls. There's nothing good about those ends.

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I'm not sure what spacers are sold by SSD, but spacers of various sizes can be easily found from other sources if you know the sizes you need.

Depending how hard you run the truck, the Axial rod ends will start stretching on your first run. Remember, the Axial rod ends also have plastic balls. There's nothing good about those ends.

Just ordered some M4x7mm .5mm thick stainless washers from Amazon, as well as some SSD RC rod ends with the Axial width balls, a HH Torquemaster 27t motor and SSD Aluminum servo horn from RPP.

I like the look of the Axial kit links and they look like they should hold up well, I just got a bit apprehensive about them after seeing Harley and a few others complain about the crappy axial link ends. It has been like the twilight zone trying to find a suitable solution to the link end issue without the alternative of spending $60 on a whole new set just because of the crappy Axial plastic. Axial link ends suck, Traxxas link ends are too short and the balls are too wide, SSD spacers are out of stock, the only washers/spacers I can find are on a slow boat from China, etc.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Boogie

Just ordered some M4x7mm .5mm thick stainless washers from Amazon, as well as some SSD RC rod ends with the Axial width balls, a HH Torquemaster 27t motor and SSD Aluminum servo horn from RPP.

I like the look of the Axial kit links and they look like they should hold up well, I just got a bit apprehensive about them after seeing Harley and a few others complain about the crappy axial link ends. It has been like the twilight zone trying to find a suitable solution to the link end issue without the alternative of spending $60 on a whole new set just because of the crappy Axial plastic. Axial link ends suck, Traxxas link ends are too short and the balls are too wide, SSD spacers are out of stock, the only washers/spacers I can find are on a slow boat from China, etc.

McMaster-Carr, Tamiya, Team KNK, Yeah Racing, etc also have spacers. They are all over eBay and in the US.

Outside of the links and top shaft, if you choose, just run the Axial until it breaks. It'll be pretty durable. You'll just find their flexible plastic isn't great especially when used in spots like the links.

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

McMaster-Carr, Tamiya, Team KNK, Yeah Racing, etc also have spacers. They are all over eBay and in the US.

Outside of the links and top shaft, if you choose, just run the Axial until it breaks. It'll be pretty durable. You'll just find their flexible plastic isn't great especially when used in spots like the links.

I've only found one source for M4x7MM .5mm thick spacers. There is a ton of M3 out there, but not a lot of M4x7mm, most are at least 9mm in diameter. The SSD rod ends are 7mm in diameter so if I put on the common 9mm diameter washers, it would stick out and create a potential snag point on the links. Can be remedied with a dremel and some patience, but I'd rather just go with the correct fit from the get go. I'm going to keep looking though.

[Ironhide13]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Depending how hard you run the truck, the Axial rod ends will start stretching on your first run. Remember, the Axial rod ends also have plastic balls. There's nothing good about those ends.

Interesting, the plastic rod ends may explain why switching to the SSD double bent panhard/steering links with their rod ends helped my early steering issues.
I guess I just haven't put the hours/miles on my SCX10ii to notice the rod ends stretching or wearing out the plastic balls quick being an issue. Granted, I'm still relatively new to the hobby, and didn't have anything prior experience to use to compare it.

@Boogie, best I can tell you is build it stock, see what you like and don't like about it, and replace things as they break or pick up parts as you catch a good deal on hop ups.

[twentyniner]

Originally Posted by Boogie

Just ordered some M4x7mm .5mm thick stainless washers from Amazon, as well as some SSD RC rod ends with the Axial width balls, a HH Torquemaster 27t motor and SSD Aluminum servo horn from RPP.

I got an email from SSD saying they discontinued their link spacers, unfortunately. Do you mind sharing a link to the spacers you found on Amazon? I’m also looking for some for a builder’s kit, didn’t see anything there. Congrats, and good luck with your kit.

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by twentyniner

I got an email from SSD saying they discontinued their link spacers, unfortunately. Do you mind sharing a link to the spacers you found on Amazon? I’m also looking for some for a builder’s kit, didn’t see anything there. Congrats, and good luck with your kit.

That's unfortunate and a little bit confusing, but I guess they are looking to sell more of their own links versus retrofitting their link ends. Oh well.
See the link below, one thing to note though is that they come from China I believe, so it may take a couple weeks. I've done several builds in the past including a few scalers and a 2.2 competition crawler from the ground up, I'm still trying to process the fact that this build is being hung up by oddball washers/spacers being shipped from China. I guess I'll just run them as is with the Axial rod ends, then swap out with the SSD's when the spacers get here. I'm going to be taking my time on this build to customize a bunch of the scale details, so it's not a huge deal, just a little annoying.

M4x7mm 0.5mm thick stainless washers on Amazon

[Capt J-rod]

I have the same kit... Go with the vanquish topshaft and ball bearing to replace the cheesy plastic bushing in the slipper clutch. Be very careful screwing the cover on the transmission as the ears like to crack. As for the body I used flex seal (yes the as seen on TV crap) as a backer on the paint job. It seems to help re-inforce the body. Be sure to pull the window masks before it dries out and hardens. As far as the rod ends go they are pretty soft but I haven't snapped one yet and you will have spares on the parts trees. Get it together and start running it, then mod it as you see fit. It is very capable right out of the box!

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by Capt J-rod

I have the same kit... Go with the vanquish topshaft and ball bearing to replace the cheesy plastic bushing in the slipper clutch. Be very careful screwing the cover on the transmission as the ears like to crack. As for the body I used flex seal (yes the as seen on TV crap) as a backer on the paint job. It seems to help re-inforce the body. Be sure to pull the window masks before it dries out and hardens. As far as the rod ends go they are pretty soft but I haven't snapped one yet and you will have spares on the parts trees. Get it together and start running it, then mod it as you see fit. It is very capable right out of the box!

I'm going to pick up the Vanquish top shaft as soon as they come back in stock. I contacted Vanquish and they said they would be producing more soon. I use a thin coat of shoe goo on most of my bodies to help reinforce some of the thin or contact areas. Do you recall the size bearing needed to replace that bushing?

[JDM74]

If you knew somebody with a 3D printer you could print spacers for the link ends. That's a pretty easy job and PLA should hold up fine in that application.

[lonleycreeper]

Hey Boogie..... Just run the stock links....

They changed them dramatically compared to previous rigs... I have 45+ miles on my honcho, and the(plastic) links are still tight as new...