SCX10ii build - my first rc car kit

[mcbartho]

Hello,


Today I picked up my scx10ii kit. It is my firts rc car kit and will leave it mostly stock for now. If something breaks I will replace it with an upgrade part ;)


Or are there parts that really need replaced from the beginning?


I am making a thread because I might need some help during the build


First picture is just the box.

[Jboucher]

The one thing i hear the most about for scx10.2 kits is the top shaft in the transmission.
It has to be changed for the VP top shaft or modified to prevent spur gear issues.

Other than that, it's the usual beadlocks wheels and rod ends.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Congrats on the purchase! I think you'll have a lot of fun building and driving this truck.

You'll need electronics. Do you have those?

I was also told to get the Vanquish top shaft for the transmission. I'm not sure it helped because my transmission is still loud and crunchy. Other than that I say build it stock.

If you want to add upgrades I'd suggest wheels and tires be the first thing you look at changing.

EDIT: jboucher beat me to it, but that reminds me of something. The kit comes with plastic hollow balls. Upgrade to metal or just upgrade to Traxxas rod ends and be done with it. I think you'll have to cut them to match the size of the Axial link ends though.

[Jboucher]

The RPM revo rod ends from VP have the axial width balls. You do need to add 1 M4 spacer to your link ends to keep the stock axial lenght.
SSD sells some nice black aluminum M4 spacers.

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[mcbartho]

I have searched a lot for electronics on the www and I came up with a mambax esc, a holmes puller pro stubby 2700kv and a holmes servo. For radio I bought futaba 4pls.

I will look into that top shaft. The plastic hollow balls I dont know what it is but I will use them and if they wear out I can replace them.

Thnx for the input.

[Jboucher]

They plastic balls and axial cheap rod ends will wear out very fast on brushless power...

Take the time right now to put some high quality rod ends. You already paid top dollar for electronics, spend a few bucks on the rest

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[mcbartho]

The top shaft I can find but what rod ends do i need and spacers?


Newbie in this rc car hobby

[Jboucher]

Vanquish RPM revo rod ends with axial width brass balls along with SSD M4 aluminium spacers
Or
Traxxas revo rod ends with steel balls

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[mcbartho]

Will these fit: https://www.toprc.nl/traxxas-trx-5347.html



It says Revo(large)

[Jboucher]

I think so, maybe others can confirm.
I bought the RPM revo rod ends on Amain Hobbies

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[mcbartho]

Ok thnx, I will wait for confirmation.

I have found the RPM kit but it has no spacers: https://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquis...s08321/p665205

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by mcbartho

Ok thnx, I will wait for confirmation.

I have found the RPM kit but it has no spacers: https://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquis...s08321/p665205

Yeah look for SSD M4 spacers, it's a separate item.

I found a picture from my build
Left if RPM rod end, middle is axial rod end and right is RPM with the SSD spacer.

[mcbartho]

thnx for the help. I might buy these https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-...d00116/p507505
with the 1.5mm spacers. It is cheap and seems to fit.

[Jboucher]

I don't know these, i think they are the same lenght as traxxas / Axial so they may not require the spacers.

Also RPM is about the toughest plastic available. They supply A-arms and many other plastic parts for 1/8 bashers like the Arrma kraton and these are almost impossible to break.

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[NitroDarwin]

I added pin thru extra hole in top shaft and plastic spacer to eliminate top shaft play

as far as pivot balls samix sells stainless steel ones and so far the rod ends have held up well with samix balls.

[mcbartho]

I have consulted the manual and for the steering link the rod ends are in an angle. Can i also replace them by the straight upgraded rod ends or do they need to stay curved ones. The steering link needs to clear the axle housing.

The upper links are also curved rod ends stock...

Thnx for the info.


So today I ordered the last things so i can put it together.
Ordered a vanquish top shaft and axial metal pivot balls that i will put into the kit end links. That will be it for now cause I have already spent a bit over budget :P

I also bought my first 2 lipo packs: 3s 2200 cheap one's




First step in the build:

First I degreased all metal parts of bag A with some break cleaner because there was oil on them from fabrication. Loctite dont hold on oil ;) I am using the loctite from the kit.

Then step 1 :



The whole assembly is slightly coated with grease.

The ball bearings used for this step have no seals on them and they were pretty dry so I lubed them with extra grease.

Because I have seen that the open bearings were dry I checked the sealed bearings for the axles and discovered they were pretty dry too.

So I opened them all up and greased them and then put the seal back on. This will extend there life. It is a bit messy and takes time but it is fun hobby time.









To grease them i push grease trhrough it from one side until it comes out the other side.

The pinion bearings are sealed with a metal ring so those I can't open without damaging the seal so I left them as there are.

I am using this grease:



to be continued...

Step 2 is done. The weak point in de diff's is pobably gonna be the three little screw that must hold the ringgear in place.









I dont really like the red covers, i might paint them later on

axles are done:



The end caps of the rear axle are wrong. I have put the left one right and the right one left and also made a mistake by threading the screws in from the wrong side . So now my screws go in from the top of the axle but I dont think that is going to give problems. It sure did learned me that I need to concentrate better
The positive side of the story is that looking from behind of the vehicle you dont see any clamping screw so it is more scale

The metal pivot balls for the rod ends are in backorder so the build is stopped for now until they come in. I might start on the body in the mean time...

great job. Only the rear bumper looks a bit big.

[Ironhide13]

This kit was my first crawler and first build, too.

I may not be as hard on my rig as others, but I built mine bone stock with the included transmission shafts and the plastic pivot balls, and I haven't had to replace any of those after a year yet.

[mcbartho]

Hi Ironhide, good to know it is a reliable truck. Where I live there are no rocks so it will be all trail riding so I hope mine will last too being mostly stock.

Started with the body. I trimmed it with a hobby knife. It went good until I did the grill opening. I slipped with my knife so I enden up cutting the small piece of lexan under the grill out. Like in this link: https://rppblog.com/axial-scx10-ii-build-part-7/







I painted the body this weekend. First some pics and then how I did it:









I used 3 tamiya PS paint cans. Black, white and silver.

First masked everything exept the flares and painted them with couple of coats black. Then removed all masking tape and used a whole can of white in multiple light coats. The result is a nice white body but the sun shines trough it. Then I used a few coats of silver silver to block the sun from shining through te wite. The silver blocks the light shining through the wite and it doesnt make the white any darker. After that I used up the black can for the final backing coloring. So if u see through the windows u cant see the silver but it is nice black inside.

I did not use the black directly on the white because it might darken the white color. Therefor is te silver paint between the white and the black...

[Jboucher]

Good job
I did that same technique for panels except with red.

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[Tufftf2]

Originally Posted by mcbartho

Step 2 is done. The weak point in de diff's is pobably gonna be the three little screw that must hold the ringgear in place.









I dont really like the red covers, i might paint them later on

if the red really bothers you look into using rit fabric dye instead of paint will last alot longer...lots of traxxas guys use it to dye their grey and blue plastic parts....

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