Cherokee kit or Raw Builders Kit? Can’t decide!

[twentyniner]

Hi guys, I want to buy either a Cherokee kit or the new raw builders kit. Hope you can help me decide.

Does the Cherokee kit trans still have the top shaft play issue? I haven’t seen any recent posts about it. I know there is a Vanquish top shaft upgrade but can’t find it in stock anywhere.

I eventually want to add a truck or SUV hard body and maybe build an interior. From what I’ve read, people are flipping the trans when they do this. Is that really necessary? Would the smaller AX10 trans work better?

I like the idea of starting basic with the RBK, but the Cherokee kit seems like a better deal at the moment after adding tires/wheels and shocks. I also don’t need all the links that come with the RBK. There are so many Cherokees out there, but I do like them and used to own a 1:1 version, so I’m okay with it for now.

Sorry for rambling, what would you choose? Thanks for your help.

[soze]

Maybe just choose the one with the axles that you like better. one-piece or multi-piece.

[Axial Rose]

I got one of each - these are my first SCX10-II's

From a design/engineering point of view, the changes from the old version seem fairly impressive but I'm not the expert

I believe Harley's review of the RBK mentioned the link ends are too soft and the shocks are . . . pretty much only good for target practice (not his exact words - ha) . . . these are both easy upgrades (not a deal breaker for me) so, other than that I'm lookin forward to getting the first one out there on the rocks (my Cherokee kit is still in the box)

[twentyniner]

Originally Posted by soze

Maybe just choose the one with the axles that you like better. one-piece or multi-piece.

I don’t have much of a preference there, as long as the internals are the same. Is one stronger than the other?

[svt923]

There are tradeoffs between both axle designs. The one piece housings look better and are less bulky but break a c hub and you need a new housing. The multi piece axles can have more aluminum parts bolted to them for strength but the splines holding the c hubs can strip and they have more potential hang up points.

As far as internal differences between the SBK and Cherokee kit, the axle gears in the SBK are a sintered one piece gear/locker while the Cherokee kit uses a machined gear bolted to a sintered locker. The machined gear is stronger but the 3 M2 bolts holding it on to the locker can shear off, the one piece gear/locker eliminates the potential for breaking those bolts but the sintered material isn't as strong. Again, there is a trade-off but both hold up fine with proper assembly and shimming.

With the Cherokee kit being on sale, the price difference is $90. Unless you want to run the Cherokee body with decent tires on glue on wheels, I would save the cash with the SBK and put the money towards some good tires and wheels.

[twentyniner]

Originally Posted by svt923

There are tradeoffs between both axle designs...

Thank you, some great info there! Do you by chance know if the stock c-hubs and knuckles can be used with an SSD pro44 axle housing?

[svt923]

Originally Posted by twentyniner

Thank you, some great info there! Do you by chance know if the stock c-hubs and knuckles can be used with an SSD pro44 axle housing?

All the stock parts from the Cherokee kit axles needed to complete the Pro44s will work. The SBK will require new c hubs and link mounts to install the Pro44s but everything else will work.

[twentyniner]

Originally Posted by svt923

All the stock parts from the Cherokee kit axles needed to complete the Pro44s will work. The SBK will require new c hubs and link mounts to install the Pro44s but everything else will work.

Thank you! Have you had any experience or issues with the top shaft on a Cherokee kit style trans?

I like the simplicity of the AX trans, and it is smaller...

[svt923]

Originally Posted by twentyniner

Thank you! Have you had any experience or issues with the top shaft on a Cherokee kit style trans?

I like the simplicity of the AX trans, and it is smaller...

I got a SCXII Cherokee kit shortly after they were released and the top shaft definitely had more play than it should. My fix was to grind a groove in the shaft and installed an e-clip to hold the gear tight against the pin.



There were no more issues with excess play after the e-clip was installed but I have since replaced the shaft with a Vanquish one in the most current rebuild.

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by twentyniner

Thank you! Have you had any experience or issues with the top shaft on a Cherokee kit style trans?

I like the simplicity of the AX trans, and it is smaller...

Bent two of them.. The rigs has seen lots of use so I wasn't upset or disappointed. It was difficult to track down a replacement. Not impossible just not overly common.

[twentyniner]

Thanks guys, very helpful. I think I’m going to hold off and get the RBK at some point. Hard to turn down a discount, but I’d just end up with an extra body and wheels collecting dust eventually. Shocks too. I’d just run the one piece axles until something breaks and then look at the SSD options. But I’m easy on my stuff so it may take a while.

[ussprinceton2004]

I prefer the older OG AX10 3 gear transmission

[NitroDarwin]

As far as top shaft play you can also run a pin thru the extra hole in the shaft and well as plastic spacer to eliminate the play