SCX10 II Toe

[jpedersm]

Im just putting the builders kit together and noticed on the front axial there will be a little toe in. Is this normal on this vehicle or should there be no toe in?

[lonleycreeper]

I will have to look at mine. But I don't remember any noticeable toe in or out.

[soze]

Yeah it does have a little of that depending on how tight you thread the rods in. I usually just adjust the rod ends until the toe is even and throw in spacer if there are threads showing.

[zane!]

At the speeds you'll drive an SCX10ii, there is zero need for toe-in. The only benefits are high speed stability and faster turn-out traction, neither of which apply to a slow solid axle truck.

Now some toe-out will actually give you a bit more steering in very tight turns as it will mimic some Ackerman in the steering, which the AR44 axles lack.

Just adjust it until you have zero toe. That's what I've always ran on RC crawlers and 1:1 Crawlers and it's recommended by most.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by hobbyjumper

One thing I don't do is second guess the designers at Axial.

So that grinding in my tranny shouldn't be questioned, got it

Nothing wrong with asking questions when something seems odd.

I set my steering links to have 0 toe, and as Zane pointed out the only "good" toe is toe out as at least that get you something with it.

[GA Dawg]

Originally Posted by hobbyjumper

One thing I don't do is second guess the designers at Axial.

Isn't this entire forum dedicated to second guessing the designers at Axial?

[HumboldtEF]

Sorry Hobbyjumper I was a bit grumpy, already fixed my tranny issue with a VP topshaft.

[jpedersm]

So If I go backward on the links so there is threads showing do you guys recommend to take the coupling off all the way and put spacers in there or just run it with the threads showing? Also how much grease are you guys using in the axial casings, it never really says to use a drop or a glob.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by jpedersm

So If I go backward on the links so there is threads showing do you guys recommend to take the coupling off all the way and put spacers in there or just run it with the threads showing? Also how much grease are you guys using in the axial casings, it never really says to use a drop or a glob.

You can get by without a spacer but putting one in may prevent the rod end from twisting around since with it you can really tighten it.


Grease for the axle, I coat the pinion and ring gear filling the gaps between the teeth. You dont need to go crazy but its definitely more than a drop.

[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by jpedersm

So If I go backward on the links so there is threads showing do you guys recommend to take the coupling off all the way and put spacers in there or just run it with the threads showing? Also how much grease are you guys using in the axial casings, it never really says to use a drop or a glob.

I liberally coat the gears...

I run the tube fairly flat over the voids in the teeth filling the teeth with the grease, but not going above the top of the teeth. I have done this with all of my rigs and have never had a problem.

[DRTMI]

Originally Posted by zane!

At the speeds you'll drive an SCX10ii, there is zero need for toe-in. The only benefits are high speed stability and faster turn-out traction, neither of which apply to a slow solid axle truck.

Now some toe-out will actually give you a bit more steering in very tight turns as it will mimic some Ackerman in the steering, which the AR44 axles lack.

Just adjust it until you have zero toe. That's what I've always ran on RC crawlers and 1:1 Crawlers and it's recommended by most.

Toe in gives the outside tire more steering. 1:1 and RC hardly ever correlate with each other.

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

Isn't this entire forum dedicated to second guessing the designers at Axial?

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Sorry Hobbyjumper I was a bit grumpy, already fixed my tranny issue with a VP topshaft.

Didn't need a VP shaft to keep your gear from grinding. You just had the 36t gear, AX31416, flipped around the way. Both sides have a slot for the pin, only one is right and the other is a few thousandths too deep and lets the gears hit each other.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by DRTMI

Didn't need a VP shaft to keep your gear from grinding. You just had the 36t gear, AX31416, flipped around the way. Both sides have a slot for the pin, only one is right and the other is a few thousandths too deep and lets the gears hit each other.

I had that sorted, double checked anyway.


Really I think the pinion set screw was likely grazing the spur gear as the sloppy stock top shaft moved in and out. It was fine for a few months which is why I was thrown off I guess.

[zane!]

Originally Posted by DRTMI

Toe in gives the outside tire more steering. 1:1 and RC hardly ever correlate with each other.








Didn't need a VP shaft to keep your gear from grinding. You just had the 36t gear, AX31416, flipped around the way. Both sides have a slot for the pin, only one is right and the other is a few thousandths too deep and lets the gears hit each other.

So you're saying that a solid axle 4x4 truck and an RC solid axle 4x4 scale truck meant to emulate a real truck don't share any setup techniques? I beg to differ.

For an RC comp buggy, I agree that common truck knowledge is out the window.

But on scale rigs, a lot of setup carries over. Notice how almost everyone is trying to get away from reverse Ackerman knuckles? It's because steering is worse with reverse Ackerman, your outside tire wants to turn more but the inside tire is pushing the truck straight. Adding toe-in does the same thing, whereas toe-out emulates some much-needed Ackerman. Or if you have correct Ackerman knuckles... Zero toe is perfect.

[DRTMI]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I had that sorted, double checked anyway.


Really I think the pinion set screw was likely grazing the spur gear as the sloppy stock top shaft moved in and out. It was fine for a few months which is why I was thrown off I guess.

I cobbled my top shaft up to eliminate the front to back movement. A couple aluminum spacers and an inner bearing race did the trick. I could see the pinion set screw hitting the spur with as much slop the shaft has.

[DRTMI]

Originally Posted by zane!

So you're saying that a solid axle 4x4 truck and an RC solid axle 4x4 scale truck meant to emulate a real truck don't share any setup techniques? I beg to differ.

For an RC comp buggy, I agree that common truck knowledge is out the window.

But on scale rigs, a lot of setup carries over. Notice how almost everyone is trying to get away from reverse Ackerman knuckles? It's because steering is worse with reverse Ackerman, your outside tire wants to turn more but the inside tire is pushing the truck straight. Adding toe-in does the same thing, whereas toe-out emulates some much-needed Ackerman. Or if you have correct Ackerman knuckles... Zero toe is perfect.

On RC trucks with 8° knuckles, the weight is transferred to the outside tire, and weight is taken off the inside tire.

[zane!]

Originally Posted by DRTMI

On RC trucks with 8° knuckles, the weight is transferred to the outside tire, and weight is taken off the inside tire.

At speed, yes. On a slow scale crawler... Not really.

Just to add, I'm enjoying this technical discussion.