Steering servo arm rubbs draglink

[dmorrison]

I mounted a Hitec D956WP 32-Bit High Torque Waterproof Steel Gear Servo, HRC36956 and the servo arm screw will rubb on the draglink plastic mounting arm when the suspension is compressed. I took a dremel and removed a little bit of plastic from the arm end and it helped a bit. I also added the servo rubber mounts to raise the servo and that helped too. I was wondering if putting on an angled end would be the solution or would that mess up the geometry of the front end? See pics.

Other wise I think I will mount the electronics like I have in the picture.

[wcdfmt510]

I have the same issue. Except I'm using a Amazon special servo. And a rc4wd servo arm . Im thinking getting a front bumper mount that incorporates the servo so it mounts it farther forward and sideways. Maybe that will help?

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[altd896]

Minor technicality, thats the panhard rod/link it's hitting, the drag link is the one from the servo arm down to the knuckle.
Not trying to be the tech Nazi, but it may help in the future when your trying to find stuff.

If fitting the angled rod is the same length as the straight on then it won't cause any geometry issues...if it clears the servo arm fit it up & it should be fine.

[wcdfmt510]

I found this. Might be worth it.

http://www.lockeduprc.com/Pro-CMS--S...Kit_p_912.html

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[Panther6834]

I don't have an SCX10...but, have you considered trying an offset rod end?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[dmorrison]

Originally Posted by altd896

Minor technicality, thats the panhard rod/link it's hitting, the drag link is the one from the servo arm down to the knuckle.
Not trying to be the tech Nazi, but it may help in the future when your trying to find stuff.

If fitting the angled rod is the same length as the straight on then it won't cause any geometry issues...if it clears the servo arm fit it up & it should be fine.

Thanks for the clarification, I'm a total newbee with RC crawlers so appreciate the help. The aftermarket kit looks like a great solution, but I think i will run it as is for a little while and see how things hold up. I think it's ok with the mods I made for now as it only rubs when you get close to bottoming out the suspension. I can imagine after a while the plastic parts will wear and then I will be looking at some of the modification kits to replace them. Good thing about these forums is that I can come back to this and use the advice when stuff does break or wear out.

I might try the offset end also just for fun...

[Panther6834]

While my Axial Capra is my first crawler, I have several race vehicles, and a few Traxxas vehicles, I've used offset rod ends for steering & suspension turnbuckles, and I can tell you they are fantastic at "resolving" these types of problems. What I might suggest is ordering them, and holding onto them (ie. package unopened) until you decide whether, it not, you really want/needed them.

This way, when you realize that you truly need them...such as when the current ones "give out"...you'll already have them. And, after a certain period of time, if you discover that your 'solution' is holding up, and won't be giving out, then you can return the offset ends for a refund. An advantage of having them already on-hand is, if/when the current ones "give out", you won't be forced into not bring able to run your vehicle for days (weeks?) while waiting for the rod ends to arrive, as you'd already have them.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[dmorrison]

Plus, it probably doesn't hurt to have an inventory of spare parts as they dont cost too much. I know with airplanes it seems like you can never have to many parts laying around, especially after a crash...

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by dmorrison

Plus, it probably doesn't hurt to have an inventory of spare parts as they dont cost too much. I know with airplanes it seems like you can never have to many parts laying around, especially after a crash...

Or helos...ESPECIALLY helos...lol. After my last crash (about 8 years ago), I repaired the copter, and then sold all my helo stuff via CL. That was the day I decided to leave flying helos.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[smokinapankake]

I just used the angled rod end. Worked with my JX 6221 MG servo running the stock axial servo horn.

[dmorrison]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Or helos...ESPECIALLY helos...lol. After my last crash (about 8 years ago), I repaired the copter, and then sold all my helo stuff via CL. That was the day I decided to leave flying helos.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

I just crashed an Extra 300s that I spent a year building and I know how it feels. I think cars wont be as stressful as airplanes...lol.

The servo arm end with the nut and bolt clears everything just fine, it is the servo arm mount to the servo that was rubbing, but I think it's ok for now, with my minor mods. I will buy that kit posted earlier in the thread eventually, but for now I will run it and wear out the stock parts then replace as needed. I am pretty happy with the chassis build and finished it last night, mounted electronics and will bind and calibrate tonight.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

[braytonia]

Here is what you need. A longer servo arm just puts more strain on your servo and you actually lose some torque with a longer arm. This plate actually moves your servo up just enough to clear everything... It is a solid part and very affordable. Also look into a 20mm servo horn from Axial.

https://iercscaler.com/shop?olsPage=...y-brace&page=1

[dirtman71]

Had the same issue. Didn’t change the panhard link. I had a few stand offs and longer screws for the servo mount. 3mm washers will work too. Just raise it enough to clear panhard but not so much to hit the chassis

[dmorrison]

That plate looks sweet and strong. The rubber mounts seemed to raise it just enough to clear the panhard and so far it seems to work great, at least around the house...Probably should change the rubber to some washers though to make it last longer.

[dmorrison]

Got it running last night and dialed in the Castle ESC and Spektrum radio with AVC. Runs great around the house and crawls very slow with nice torque. I climbed over some stuff and really got it up on some good angles and the steering is working great so far. Time to get the body done and get it outside. I'm really liking the Castle sensored brushless setup, really smooth!

[dirtman71]

What motor are you running with the castle?

[dmorrison]

Mamba x, sensored, 25.2v wp esc and 1406-2850kv sensored combo

Kind of pricey, but I have learned from airplanes that I do not like brushed motor setups. Brushless has less to no maintenance, no brushes to wear out and maintains a constant power throughout the battery charge until the end...Worth the extra investment in the long run.

[dirtman71]

I know what you’re saying. I was flying almost 20 years ago brushed. Around 2004-05 brushless and Lipo got affordable. I never looked back. I have been crawling for 6years brushless 17.5, 25.5. But not waterproof. I just tried a brushed set up in this new rig. Hw 1080 and HH Crawlmaster sport 21t. I only got like 20 min of run time on it in the back yard. But I would say it’s just as smooth with great slow speed control as my brushless. Going out tomorrow morning for it’s first run. I will see how it does in the real world

You will definitely have some punch with a 2800kv

[dmorrison]

I have a 3s, 5000mah, 30c battery too and someone said I should get around 2 hours of run time with my setup. Hard to believe, but we will see. That is actually too much run time for me as my attention span is limited...

[indybama]

Ive got a castle mmp with a HH trailmaster sport 550 21 or 27t (cant remember which) n i run a ovonic 3300mah 50c 3s n get hr n half to 2 hrs run time on 1 batt.

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