trx4 locking axels on a axial scx 10 ii jeep

[bret palser]

I was wondering if trx4 locking axels would work on my axial scx10 ii 2000 jeep

[Nick821]

I happened to be looking this up myself tonight closest information i can find is a harley designs video. he used a vs4 chassis though and a 3 gear transmission . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1F-wfq4d44&t=161s

[kingothecave]

I have the alloy trx4 axles on my 10ii and I'm having some issues with front suspension bind/stiffness I believe its something to do with panhard bar it started out being off center but a little grinding on panhard and steering link solved that but it just doesnt flex like it should I have currently went to 4 link with my servo still on chassis but am afraid I'll have too much bump steer been hunting for tips or even just ideas but seems like we are some of the first to try this or at least admit it I have front scale engine setup on route so I want to keep my servo on the chassis looking for hard squarebody I can make a quad cab stepside with functional hood and possibly doors thinking about clodbuster body but it a little pricey for 2 just to cut them up

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[Ninomaniac]

Dunno what your goal is but it would probably be simpler and maybe more cost effective to sell the scx and get a trx4.

[TheLetterJ]

You can't run a triangulated 4 link AND a panhard bar on the same axle. The triangulated links keep the axle moving straight up and down through its travel, the panhard forces the axle to swing to the passenger side on compression and driver on droop. The only reason you have any travel at all right now is due to loose tolerances in the links. Try pulling just one of your upper links and report back.

[twade984]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

You can't run a triangulated 4 link AND a panhard bar

I don’t think there is a panhard bar on there still.

Hard to tell much from pictures, and this isn’t a swap I’ve really seen done, so I can’t offer too much insight.

I would definitely try to run 3 link and panhard since that is what the axle is made for. I’m wondering if that 4th upper link is actually mounted further offset to one side of the axle, causing your binding issue.

That being said, you’re getting into custom suspension and it’s pretty much a given you will need custom length links here and there. One thing to remember is seemingly little changes in link length, shock length, etc make big differences in how things function. I’m talking 1 or 2 mm.


Also, I’m all sorts of confused after looking at the pictures again. It looks like you have pretty long shocks, scx10.1 shock hoops, mismatched links, and it definitely looks like your chassis rails are backwards….

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by twade984

I don’t think there is a panhard bar on there still.

Hard to tell much from pictures, and this isn’t a swap I’ve really seen done, so I can’t offer too much insight.

I would definitely try to run 3 link and panhard since that is what the axle is made for. I’m wondering if that 4th upper link is actually mounted further offset to one side of the axle, causing your binding issue.

That being said, you’re getting into custom suspension and it’s pretty much a given you will need custom length links here and there. One thing to remember is seemingly little changes in link length, shock length, etc make big differences in how things function. I’m talking 1 or 2 mm.


Also, I’m all sorts of confused after looking at the pictures again. It looks like you have pretty long shocks, scx10.1 shock hoops, mismatched links, and it definitely looks like your chassis rails are backwards….

I agree to all of this above.

An axle can be just barely, and I mean barely, off and it will cause binding. I learned this when I put AR60 axles on a VS410 chassis. Also just moving a link up/down left/right can cause binding or bad lifting, weight transfer, etc.

Making links can be a lot easier than trying to track down the right ones premade with the right bends in them. Also it might be easier to do a 4 link/SOA. I tried a 3 link/panhard with the AR60s and it just didn't work. It was too janky and bump steer central. 4 link also preforms better than a 3 link IMO.

As far as the chassis, it looks like it might be one of those china chassis that have the battery tray in the rear-but also if possible I'd still flip it, It just looks wrong lol.

[kingothecave]

Chassis is flipped it was my very first chassis and didnt come with axles or trans when I got matching trans and transfer that's the way it went in according to the holes in frame rails didnt come with instructions either of course I had injora axles under it and had servo on chassis hense the real shock hangers and had drilled my own holes to Flip chassis the right direction and worked well for couple years during which time I figured out my trans setup was supposed to be in it backwards but I wanted portals and liked the locking/unlocking option as well as under over gearing option of the trx4 so I got em and thought maybe the issue was from having it direction I drilled holes for it to fit so I went back to factory holes I've also tried it with the 3link and panhard both ways and have tried the links originally purchased for it as well as vattera link sets with several different length spacer kits for the links it works decent the way it sits with monster truck tires with only moderate bump steer front engine setup will be here the 8th will decide between now and then if I'm going to get trx4 shock towers and links to try and fix issue or say **** it and go with a leaf spring kit I only know one other person onto the hobby and he basically just buys and sells we've crawled twice in the going on 5 years I've been into it yeah I could've bought a trx4 but I've also amassed quite a large collection in the little time I've been in so this one has been a here and there project that's a total guessing game since you never get instructions when you buy parts and the guys at the rc shop act like you have the plague if you didnt buy your stuff from them and are ass hats in a group setting so comps are out of the question. That's how I ended up here. looking for solutions and finding the same questions I have and similar reactions as the ones in the shop I'll figure it out by the time the scx10v comes out lmfao

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[kingothecave]

Btw the binding was caused by panhard bs during and in the up down travel of the axle but only on one side all that is gone with 4 link with a spacer to offset the off center upper link mounting place bump steer is only issue currently which will probably change. Once front engine gets here so I'm just waiting for it and news flash everything comes from China lmao but it is all same brand. kyx the custom links are option and agree 4 is better than 3 but would like my servo to stay on chassis. Need a steering link that's actually a shock to eliminate the bumpsteer issue or a nice set of soft leaves in front and back

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[BrainBucket]

I too am building something similar, TRX4 axles on SCX10ii chassis. Will try posting some pictures later.

[BrainBucket]

Can't upload pictures here, sent you an email.

[kingothecave]

Fixed my issue with new setup and adjustable panhard andalong with some jamb nuts for slight adjustment on upper link in front havent tested with a drive but manual articulation of the front end is immensely improved other than panhard all links are scx10ii appreciate the help from extra eyes and ideas will let you know how first drive goes in a couple days

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[kingothecave]

So my issues are for sure worked out did a little testing and its definitely articulating as should be expected maybe even a little better only took two pics

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[meatmonkey]

Just here to say I'm a fan of junkyard parts crawling and old school 2.2 R35 Ripsaws. So thanks for posting.