SLN’s Axial Experience

[Phildirt]

There are a whole mess of them though. Why wouldn’t you upgrade to aluminum ones while you are at it? I Googled sCX10 ii hex and saw more than I could shake a stick at.

Here’s some Samix

https://www.hobbytown.com/samix-scx1...CABEgINV_D_BwE


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

There are a whole mess of them though. Why wouldn’t you upgrade to aluminum ones while you are at it? I Googled sCX10 ii hex and saw more than I could shake a stick at.

Here’s some Samix

https://www.hobbytown.com/samix-scx1...CABEgINV_D_BwE


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Because those still use a pin/grub screw. The whole point is to eliminate that and just go to 1 screw all the way through.

They did come with the set screw, just not the kind that goes all the way through like the ones I linked.




_________________
SCX10 ii

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Because those still use a pin/grub screw. The whole point is to eliminate that and just go to 1 screw all the way through.

They did come with the set screw, just not the kind that goes all the way through like the ones I linked.




_________________
SCX10 ii

Meh just tighten the screw, add a little loc-tite if you are worried about it. That's not something I'd overthink because my wheel came off once. Add it to your periodic check just like the axle pins.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

Meh just tighten the screw, add a little loc-tite if you are worried about it. That's not something I'd overthink because my wheel came off once. Add it to your periodic check just like the axle pins.

Yeah, I unfortunately don’t have any hex pins on hand that fit, so I’d have to order some, and I figured why not do it since I’m already ordering pins. Plus, Amain is out of stock on the pins.




_________________
SCX10 ii

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Yeah, I unfortunately don’t have any hex pins on hand that fit, so I’d have to order some, and I figured why not do it since I’m already ordering pins. Plus, Amain is out of stock on the pins.




_________________
SCX10 ii

Cut a piece of a wire coat hanger to get you by until the part shows up


Try RPP. Amazon has them too, like a whole pile for $8 or something like that last time I checked.

[Fricker08]

I’ve even cut a heavy duty body clip to the right size and used it in a pinch.. that led to a permanent repair


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Fricker08

I’ve even cut a heavy duty body clip to the right size and used it in a pinch.. that led to a permanent repair


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve done that for a transmission pin. Now Im glad I kept all those big cotter pins and body clips. Lol

Originally Posted by Phildirt

Cut a piece of a wire coat hanger to get you by until the part shows up


Try RPP. Amazon has them too, like a whole pile for $8 or something like that last time I checked.

I’m going to order these. I’m pretty confident they will work since they seem to be the exact same thing. And if it doesn’t work for some reason, it’s only $10 so I’ll take that chance.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-1...32018/p1049135




_________________
SCX10 ii

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Oh yeah, also found that the local ACE has a huge array of 4-40 size screws/nuts/bolts for cheap, so I’ll be buying from there since it’s super cheap and fairly close.




_________________
SCX10 ii

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Got some brass



Also got my wiring all tidy.

Weird ESC mounting location? Yes. Practical? Yes.

I did have to leave some slack in that wire to be able to pop the receiver box lid off without messing with wires. So, not the cleanest, but it works.




Oh yeah, metal shock towers are on the short list lol.





_________________
SCX10 ii

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

The grub screw I stole off the printer to put in the hex practically sheared right off. I went to unscrew it and it just fell apart lol. Got the new Losi ones in and no problems for about an hour run.




_________________
SCX10 ii
TRX4

[high plains drifter]

Hey bud- Fwiw I wouldn't go with metal/ aluminum body posts/ shock towers. They can bend pretty easily and unlike plastic, you can't just bend 'em back. I've used them before and almost all of 'em have gotten tweaked during a crash or hard flop. I really think you'd be better off replacing with the same plastic ones as needed. Sucks to spend money on aluminum parts that wind up bent up after one hard roll. Also you can pretty easily fab a brace out of metal or plastic to strengthen them. Just go thru the existing mounting holes further down the posts. Up to you. Keep up the good work.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

Hey bud- Fwiw I wouldn't go with metal/ aluminum body posts/ shock towers. They can bend pretty easily and unlike plastic, you can't just bend 'em back. I've used them before and almost all of 'em have gotten tweaked during a crash or hard flop. I really think you'd be better off replacing with the same plastic ones as needed. Sucks to spend money on aluminum parts that wind up bent up after one hard roll. Also you can pretty easily fab a brace out of metal or plastic to strengthen them. Just go thru the existing mounting holes further down the posts. Up to you. Keep up the good work.

Funny, I was just thinking about fabbing up a brace or two for them.

Thanks man, I didn’t even think about that




_________________
SCX10 ii
TRX4

[smc-93]

I had the issues of the shock towers spreading on an scx10 I'm building for my dad. I bought an 10 pack of generic 60mm aluminum link rods off amazon, screwed them in between the top of the shock towers with some extra shock mounting screws. Holds everything straight and tight where it should be, with enough flex in the towers and stock rear posts, it "shouldn't" break after a hard roll.


Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Funny, I was just thinking about fabbing up a brace or two for them.

Thanks man, I didn’t even think about that







_________________
SCX10 ii
TRX4

Just don't forget if you are making braces to keep it light. Don't want to add unsprung weight up that high if you don't need to. Honestly I don't really get the shock tower thing, they don't move that much. Panhard bracket would need to be beefy but the shock towers should be fine. I would assume if they are 'spreading' there is a conflict there - at rest my shocks are loose.

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

Just don't forget if you are making braces to keep it light. Don't want to add unsprung weight up that high if you don't need to. Honestly I don't really get the shock tower thing, they don't move that much. Panhard bracket would need to be beefy but the shock towers should be fine. I would assume if they are 'spreading' there is a conflict there - at rest my shocks are loose.

My main conflict was that I drilled new holes in the frame and moved both sets of towers closer to the center of the truck. My everthing still articulates correctly, the towers just rested bent outward slightly and would flex inward during shock compression. The 60mm rod weigh essentially nothing and fixed the issue (non-issue, however you want to look at it). With building the SCX10 for my dad, who lives ~450 miles away and isn't serious about them as a hobby, I'm more concerned about it being durable above being the best performance machine it can be.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by smc-93

My main conflict was that I drilled new holes in the frame and moved both sets of towers closer to the center of the truck. My everthing still articulates correctly, the towers just rested bent outward slightly and would flex inward during shock compression. The 60mm rod weigh essentially nothing and fixed the issue (non-issue, however you want to look at it). With building the SCX10 for my dad, who lives ~450 miles away and isn't serious about them as a hobby, I'm more concerned about it being durable above being the best performance machine it can be.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

Sounds like maybe an issue with shock length, if they were bottoming out during compression then the movement would transfer to the next 'moveable' part i.e. the mounting point (tower)

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

Sounds like maybe an issue with shock length, if they were bottoming out during compression then the movement would transfer to the next 'moveable' part i.e. the mounting point (tower)

It's probably mainly due to the shock tower relocation. But I had to move the towers to fit under the body I wanted to use. As I stated before though, everything still works correctly and the aluminum links don't seem to be negativity effecting the truck, so I'm not worried about it.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

So, I tried to do something, and it almost worked.

After fitting the other Trailwalker body to this chassis, I wanted to get it super low-kinda like an LCG build, but just the looks. I’ve always liked really low slug bodies with just enough wheel clearance. I got it as low as possible, but still had a big gap between the chassis pans and the bottom of the body, around 1/2” or so. The battery was hitting the body. My first thought was to just hack it up and have the battery stick out and try to make some sort of ‘cover’ for it. My next thought was so a forward mount servo and lay the battery flat-that’s the winner!

So I got to work. Grabbed the TRX4 brass bumper/servo mount and to my surprise it fit, cool. What didn’t fit was the steering link, so I made one with all thread and two Traxxas rod ends.



Next came mounting everything. Here is where the first problem came. I had to cut the battery tray for it to clear, nothing crazy though.



Now we have the servo in. here’s the problem that isn’t solved. As you can see, the servo is full lock to the right, but the wheels are still straight-no right turn. I have tried multiple things with no solution.



Right now both endpoints are set for the stock 10.2 servo position, and I don’t know how to adjust it. I’m sure it’s something simple I’m not thinking of. If anyone knows how to change endpoints, please let me know.




_________________
SCX10 ii
TRX4

[Phildirt]

I usually like your mods brother but this one has a can of worms feel to it. Why not just find a body that fits how you want instead of re-engineering that chassis to slam that TW on it?

And why is your shock zip tied to the tower lol

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

I usually like your mods brother but this one has a can of worms feel to it. Why not just find a body that fits how you want instead of re-engineering that chassis to slam that TW on it?

And why is your shock zip tied to the tower lol

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don’t know lol, I like the body and thought this would be a lot easier. If I can figure out the EPA’s then it’s golden. This isn’t my primary body anyway, I’ll mostly run the Bronco. I’m probably going to just put this on the back burner and put it back as normal.

Oh yeah, zip tied shock is because I lost the screw that goes there so it’s like that for now until I can make it into town again lol.




_________________
SCX10 ii
TRX4