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Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: australia
Posts: 60
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Hey all. Been outta the rc game for about 10years. Use to have a xr10 i use to comp with. Looking for something fun now to have a play with. So i bought a umg10. What upgrades are worth doing in the build? New to shaftys lol. Im gunna do the wheelbase stretch and not sure what else yet.. open 2 all advice on everything. Alots probly changed in 10 years with electronics etc Cheers jeremy |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Toms River, NJ
Posts: 65
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1. Vanquish Top Shaft for the transmission 2. SSD Brass Heavy Steering Knuckles for the AR44 axles 3. Scalerfab Double Tube Rock Sliders w/Skids to keep the bodywork nice and protected That's where I would start. After that I would go with tires and wheels. Then I'd probably go with swapping shocks for something less leaky. Last edited by DirtBug; 05-01-2021 at 09:52 PM. |
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Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 659
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Anyway, I haven't messed with the suspension at all yet, but I've already ditched the rear fender plastics because of rubbing issues with 4.7" Krawler tires and metal beadlocks I got. I don't think it looks bad at all, and now there's enough room to kick the axle back ~1-1/4" before the tires would start rubbing the cage. I've also got rubbing issues in the front, but I'm gonna wait on hacking the fenders until I get a scalerfab low profile bumper, to make it match up as clean as possible. Electronics-wise, I went with the following: Hobbywing 1080 ESC Radon Reedy Crawler 16T 5-slot motor Savox 1230sg Servo Spektrum DX5 rugged radio w/5 channel servo Gens ace 4400mah 50C 3s Lipo batteries Very happy with all electronics, except the servo is super loud and annoying. I'll be swapping that into the rock rey I just got, and putting something else in its place (ProModeler DS630 maybe?). I also got a 2200mah 45c 2s Battery, just to see the difference, and it's got plenty of power. My big batteries are overkill for sure. The only other significant mod I've done was the battery/servo relocation mounts to lower the center of gravity, which I picked up on eBay. I put those in at the same time as some Benedict Harry brass internal wheel weights, and I noticed a significant difference in stability. The only issue with the servo relocation is that the servo horn needs to be pointed forward for the stock steering arm to work properly. It steers great, but it looks stupid with the arm angled forward, and the nut on the servo horn wants to catch on everything on approach. I need to figure out a shortened steering arm, so I can flip the horn around 180 degrees and out of the way. Parts waiting to go in are the Vanquish rear underdrive gears and the vanquish top shaft for the transmission. The top shaft doesn't seem to be any kind of emergency, but I can see the slop in the stock one wearing things out eventually. I've also got some brass diff covers and knuckles, along with some longer desert lizard shocks and shock relocation mounts to play around with eventually. Hope that helps a little, and I'm looking forward to reading comments from the others with much more experience than me! -Dustin | |
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