Vanquish Incision Driveshafts... RTR only!?

[DRED805]

I want to put vanquish 12.3" links and driveshafts on my UMG10 Kit to kick the rear axle out farther.

The vanquish site specifies that the driveshafts are for the RTR version only.

I've been searching for other options for like 2 hours, and I've come across multiple SCX10 II Kit builds on this site that include vanquish driveshafts in the parts list.

Are they close enough to work on a kit as long as it has a 12.3 wheelbase?

If I drop the coin on nice links, I want nicer driveshafts. What are my options!?

Thanks!

-Dustin

[Sniper4370]

I'm no expert but, I think you'll be fine. The driveshafts have been out a while and it is probably an old description from when the RTR 10.2 was all that was available.

[ToCrawl]

I have s pair of driveshafts. How long should be your distance pin to pin?

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[DRED805]

Originally Posted by ToCrawl

I have s pair of driveshafts. How long should be your distance pin to pin?

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I'm not sure. I was hoping to buy the driveshafts and new longer links at the same time and do it all at once, but I guess I could do the links first to figure out my exact driveshaft length. Thanks!

[Fishcharger]

“RTR version” is in reference to the transmission. RTR’s have the 3 gear transmission. The kit version comes with the 2-speed transmission. I actually use Incision driveshafts on my UMG10 build. I simply bought the 3 gear trans. VP makes a badass 3 gear trans. Wish it was available at the time of my build.


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[DRED805]

Originally Posted by Fishcharger

“RTR version” is in reference to the transmission. RTR’s have the 3 gear transmission. The kit version comes with the 2-speed transmission. I actually use Incision driveshafts on my UMG10 build. I simply bought the 3 gear trans. VP makes a badass 3 gear trans. Wish it was available at the time of my build.


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My umg10 kit does not have a 2 speed trans, but it is an option. Without the 2 speed, these shafts should fit, right?

Thanks!

[Fishcharger]

Not sure. I’m guessing it might rub on the trans. There’s got to be a reason why they advertise as RTR only.


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[Fricker08]

I’ve seen the 12.3 incision driveshafts installed on a lot of rigs, including a Capra and an scx10.3 I’m sure you’ll be fine


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[Battleborn7]

I just used these on my build(not umg) but I have almost an inch of driveshaft adjustability on the rear in either direction. If you measure the front, I can compare that to the front on mine later tonight. My assumption was that the UMG kit placed the transfer case fairly close to where the 3 gear trans mounts to in regards to driveshaft lengths.

[DRED805]

Cool, thanks for the help, everyone. I’ll order them tonight and hope for the best!

[DRED805]

Just in case anyone can use this information....


Yes, the Incision 12.3" wheelbase links and driveshafts WILL work on the SCX10 II UMG10 KIT, but barely!

There's maybe 1mm of travel left in the front driveshaft at full compression. In the rear, the male end is exposed quite a bit (just the tip ). It seems fine, though.

First problem I noticed was the u-joints rubbing the rear lower link screws at the chassis side. Swapped the 20mm screws for 16mm screws.

Next, since the shocks are at an angle with the axle moved back, the top of the (stock) shock binds with the shock hoop. Adding a standout makes the top of the shock bind against the body cage. I used a few M3 washers as a spacer and the shock was free to move again.

I've had the Vanquish Rear Underdrive sitting here for weeks, so I installed it at the same time last night.

I went up to Lizards Mouth today to test it, and I'm stoked. Obviously it gets high centered easier, but the long wheelbase/rear underdrive combo makes it climb like crazy. Made a much bigger difference than I anticipated.

Thanks again for the input, everyone.

[CruisinE2W]

Same thing happened with the rear shocks on my Honcho when I did the shock tower side-to-side swap. Couple small spacers and everything was good to go.

Digging the long arm look on the new setup.

[500swmag]

looks good.

you might want to swap around that rear drive shaft.

[DRED805]

Originally Posted by CruisinE2W

Digging the long arm look on the new setup.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by 500swmag

looks good.

you might want to swap around that rear drive shaft.

Thanks!

Why flip the driveshaft? I asked Josh (Harley Designs) about that on a live-stream and he said he puts the female driveshaft end on the front side both front and rear. That way there is less chance of them getting hung up on something while driving forward. Made sense to me. I dunno.

[500swmag]

If it works do it.
He's got way more comp time than I do.
I run it tube to axle, I'd rather scrape up the tube especially if the spline is partially exposed.
Have fun.

[DRED805]

Originally Posted by 500swmag

If it works do it.
He's got way more comp time than I do.
I run it tube to axle, I'd rather scrape up the tube especially if the spline is partially exposed.
Have fun.

Damn, that's a very good point that I wouldn't have thought about.

I'll keep an eye on the spline and flip it if I start seeing any damage.

Thanks for the heads up!

[boldfin]

Glad you got the Incision driveshafts to work. I find them to be very versatile. I have used them on three 11.4" WB SCX10-II builds, so they certainly aren't too long for a short wheelbase rig. One of those 11.4" WB rigs has the "kit" transmission like your UMG10, but I flipped the trans around using the Bowhouse RC forward mount transmission cradle. Incision driveshafts worked just fine on that setup, with no interference with anything. The rear driveshaft is short in that configuration, but not too short. There's plenty of room for full compression. The front needs the longer shaft, but there's plenty of spline coverage. I think there's only like 4mm of spline showing, and it isn't likely to make any contact with anything up there.

[DRED805]

Originally Posted by boldfin

Glad you got the Incision driveshafts to work. I find them to be very versatile. I have used them on three 11.4" WB SCX10-II builds, so they certainly aren't too long for a short wheelbase rig. One of those 11.4" WB rigs has the "kit" transmission like your UMG10, but I flipped the trans around using the Bowhouse RC forward mount transmission cradle. Incision driveshafts worked just fine on that setup, with no interference with anything. The rear driveshaft is short in that configuration, but not too short. There's plenty of room for full compression. The front needs the longer shaft, but there's plenty of spline coverage. I think there's only like 4mm of spline showing, and it isn't likely to make any contact with anything up there.

I was unaware of a transmission flip mount. I'll look into that, because I'm not happy with so much of the spline is exposed in the rear. It even makes a clicking noise if I'm going any faster than a crawl. I'm afraid it won't work with my servo and battery relocation mounts, but we'll see.

Any chance you can post a picture of your kit transmission with that bowhouse mount, so I can try to eyeball if it'll work for me?

Thanks!

[ToCrawl]

I wouldn't be that worried about damaging the spline. That steel should stand a lot of rock contact. You're talking about clicking noise. Did you check the right oriantation of both parners within one drive shaft? If the don't line up propperly you get a load in axial direction that causes not only noise.

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[boldfin]

There are a few pix of the trans flip setup in my post on my SCX10-II Mojave build in this section. Just need to scroll down a bit to see them.

Desert Barn Find Yota

This was before I swapped out the stock Axial WBHD shafts for Incisions.

You'll find a very detailed post about the BowhouseRC forward transmission cradle in this section from new2rocks:

BowHouse RC Forward Mount Tranmission Cradle