SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

C1 #3 hardest!
C3 bottom of page


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I see...thanks!

[GA Dawg]

My paranoia made me tear my transmission down again instead of going to bead at 11:30 last night. Every E-clip in the instructions was installed. Whoever put that extra clip in the bag has cost me sleep, but made me somewhat an expert on this trans.

I do kind of miss the simplicity of the 3 gear trans that I could tear down and build back with my eyes closed.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

My paranoia made me tear my transmission down again instead of going to bead at 11:30 last night. Every E-clip in the instructions was installed. Whoever put that extra clip in the bag has cost me sleep, but made me somewhat an expert on this trans.

I do kind of miss the simplicity of the 3 gear trans that I could tear down and build back with my eyes closed.

So...if any of us has problems with building the trans, do that mean we can send them to you?

J/K

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[mikemcE]

Heads up on the driveshafts, Rich noted the typo, What bothers me is the pin screws for the caps are in two bags , as they get installed separately.
The other two are in parts bag F, used in F8 and F10




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[Ambis]

Originally Posted by txbart

Is anyone else having issues with the shock tower mounting holes lining up?

I did have problems. While the other end was lined up perfectly, this is what all my shock towers looked like on the other end:



I had to take my hobby knife to the holes and widen them towards each other. The countersunk screws don't quite line up with the hole, but that's only a tiny cosmetic booboo.

Did anyone else have this?

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Ambis

I did have problems. While the other end was lined up perfectly, this is what all my shock towers looked like on the other end:



I had to take my hobby knife to the holes and widen them towards each other. The countersunk screws don't quite line up with the hole, but that's only a tiny cosmetic booboo.

Did anyone else have this?

Pinch the legs when running the screw in. The first side fought me, so all screws got started, and gradually tightened until all was flush. Once done the second side jumped on.


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[Topher Builds]

Hey Rich. Minor typo in the parts explosion on page 56. The part number for the hood vents should be AXI230022.

For others: there are 4 black decals that you may be left over with on your sticker sheet when you’re all done. These wrap around the rear tail light lenses and are easier to apply before bolting them into the body. If you look carefully there’s a bit of an outline on the lens for the one that wraps vertically.

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

My paranoia made me tear my transmission down again instead of going to bed at 11:30 last night. Every E-clip in the instructions was installed. Whoever put that extra clip in the bag has cost me sleep, but made me somewhat an expert on this trans.

I'm not even going to mess with you anymore now that it's progressed to sleep depriving obsession... Anyone who's ever installed ohshit clips knows spares are to be applauded...just nice to know there may be spares up front.

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Heads up on the driveshafts, Rich noted the typo, What bothers me is the pin screws for the caps are in two bags , as they get installed separately.
The other two are in parts bag F, used in F8 and F10

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

Hey Rich. Minor typo in the parts explosion on page 56. The part number for the hood vents should be AXI230022.

For others: there are 4 black decals that you may be left over with on your sticker sheet when you’re all done. These wrap around the rear tail light lenses and are easier to apply before bolting them into the body. If you look carefully there’s a bit of an outline on the lens for the one that wraps vertically.

Thanks for adds!

[GA Dawg]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

For others: there are 4 black decals that you may be left over with on your sticker sheet when you’re all done. These wrap around the rear tail light lenses and are easier to apply before bolting them into the body. If you look carefully there’s a bit of an outline on the lens for the one that wraps vertically.

Thank you! I was looking at those last night wondering where they went.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by txbart

Is anyone else having issues with the shock tower mounting holes lining up?
Edit: I just found the extra pan hard mount in the body mount bag, I take it if I used this one I would have had less trouble on that part of the build?

Edit 2: Never mind, the extra pan hard mount looks like it’s for a different build version.

Originally Posted by Ambis

I did have problems. While the other end was lined up perfectly, this is what all my shock towers looked like on the other end:
I had to take my hobby knife to the holes and widen them towards each other. The countersunk screws don't quite line up with the hole, but that's only a tiny cosmetic booboo.

Did anyone else have this?

The Panhard mount shock tower also didn't line up with the holes in my frame. Part of that was because the rear hole was undersized. I had to drill it open. But I will had to squeeze the hell out of the tower to get it to line up with the hole. When you mold parts out of granite, they need to be perfect. Either the shock tower is off or it's the hole in the frame that needs to be moved. Mine was off about 3/4 of the hole. Every other tower lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame.

[Ambis]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

there are 4 black decals that you may be left over with on your sticker sheet when you’re all done. These wrap around the rear tail light lenses and are easier to apply before bolting them into the body. If you look carefully there’s a bit of an outline on the lens for the one that wraps vertically.

Nice thanks! Also the silver blocks are inserts for the reverse light in the middle of the rear lens.

How about the rear view mirrors? They call out 2.5x6mm button head, but image displays countersunk?

[Ambis]

Originally Posted by Ambis

How about the rear view mirrors? They call out 2.5x6mm button head, but image displays countersunk?

Now that I got the truck assembled, there was this weird small bag with three of these proper screws. I just used them for the mirrors.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Ambis

How about the rear view mirrors? They call out 2.5x6mm button head, but image displays countersunk?

You use the cs, the spacers are for countersunk also the button heads are used to hold the wipers on


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[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by VR6 BeelzeDub

Anyone know/has link to US supplier that sells these? I found a few on eBay but all they say is “M3”

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Ace hardware carries 3mm taps and dies


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[johnrennainc]

This is my first kit build. When I bought the kit online it listed needed parts (servos) also optional accessories. Are these bearings needed or are they extra?

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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by johnrennainc

This is my first kit build. When I bought the kit online it listed needed parts (servos) also optional accessories. Are these bearings needed or are they extra?

Welcome to the site and congrats on getting this kit! Post up a thread and build photos.

All required bearings are included in the kit. Those are just replacement bearings.

[2mtech]

@Rich Trujillo: Part # & spec misidentification on the pinion gear in the kit.

Page 19 in the build section of the manual shows the pinion part #AX30569. Parts list on page 58 also lists part #AX30569 and identifies it as a 48p 14t gear.

It's actually a 32p 14t gear of course. I matched the kit pinion gear with a 32p 14t Axial gear I had in stock part #AX30725 and it matches.

[Fishcharger]

Wanting to steal my VP Rock Jocks off my 10.2, and put on my 10.3. Possible? If so, would it be by utilizing all links from 10.2, or using the 10.3 links?


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[johnrennainc]

Day 1 of my first build down. The biggest headache so far was the E clamps of the shocks. To start off I thought I was shorted one and went crazy looking for it. I finally found it stuck to the bottom of one of the stainless pivot ball for the top of the shock. Once I found it, I lost it again when it shot out of my hand and pliers while trying to put it in place. It cleared about 12 feet from where i was. Thankfully I was able to find it again and get it together.
The transmission was interesting. One suggestion for the newer builders is maybe have some color or making indicator to separate the bearing sizes. A few were so close I had to pull the transmission apart a couple of times. Can't wait to start day 2..

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by johnrennainc

Day 1 of my first build down. The biggest headache so far was the E clamps of the shocks. To start off I thought I was shorted one and went crazy looking for it. I finally found it stuck to the bottom of one of the stainless pivot ball for the top of the shock. Once I found it, I lost it again when it shot out of my hand and pliers while trying to put it in place. It cleared about 12 feet from where i was. Thankfully I was able to find it again and get it together.
The transmission was interesting. One suggestion for the newer builders is maybe have some color or making indicator to separate the bearing sizes. A few were so close I had to pull the transmission apart a couple of times. Can't wait to start day 2..

Welcome to the site! Post up a build thread with photos.

E-clips are tricky. I wish spares of those were always included. It's a spare part that I should keep on hand and I always forget about it.

I always have a micrometer on hand when building to ensure I'm using the correct size bearings, hardware, etc if it's not obvious. This manual did have these items drawn 1:1 for reference which was nice.

I use the one from Harbor Freight and I highly recommend it. Never pay full price. It goes on sale often. If not, check the HFQPDB website for coupons.