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Thread: 1st build to match 1:1.

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Old 04-02-2020, 06:25 PM   #1
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Default 1st build to match 1:1.

I have a couple questions before I start my first rc build. Been building full size Jeeps for years. Currently on number 7. Iíll post pics and progress once I start. First question: I wanted matte black or flat black for top. But I ended up with typical black and hobby shop said that I need a dulling paint for topside since the plastic will maintain a sheen. Is this true? What options are best for a dull black finish?

Next, where do yíall find the 3mm tap?

Also I want to paint the fender flares to match. Any recomendations? Can I just mask the flare and use the same body paint?

This is a gift for my daughter and I canít get to all the parts right now but Iíd like to see if I bought all the right stuff considering the hobby shop picked all the stuff out for me. Motor, radio, servo, etc... once I give it to her Iíll add the parts and pieces of this build. Or return and exchange for recommendations from you all.

Thanks for any and all help.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:14 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

1. Most lexan bodies are painted on the inside and thus whatever is used will look nice and shiny from the outside.

a. You can mask off the top on the outside of the body, scuff it up to help the paint adhere better, spray your flat black, and lastly spray it with a dull clear coat to protect it better.

b. You can mask it and use the spray on Rhino Liner type of material or PlastiDip as well.

c. You may want to check out the Paint & Body section of this forum. You will find many techniques with details that may interest you or you may see something you really like and decide to go in a different direction.

2. I bought a 3mm tap from Aubuchon. Any hardware store should have these.

3. You can paint the fender flares. You will want to put a few coats of a clear to help protect the paint from chipping off. Even with this the paint will eventually chip off. You can always clean them up and paint them again if your daughter really likes it that way.

4. For the electronics I would wait and see what your local hobby shop put together for you. Once you have that let us know and we can tell you what you can expect and make better recommendations if needed. Also let us know the age of your daughter. Really young a package that keeps the speed down would be best until throttle control is learned. Most kids only know ON / OFF and may tend to smash into a brick wall at full speed.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:14 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

First, Welcome to RCC! I assume you are talking about painting the clear lexan body that comes with the SCX10 III kit. Lexan bodies are typically painted on the inside which leaves the Lexan shine on the outside. To get the flat black top, use a clear dulling paint that your LHS referred to on the outside or just paint flat black on the outside. BTW, there are hundreds of youtube videos on how to paint lexan bodies and there is a "Paint and Body" section here on RCC with loads of info.

You can find an M3 tap on Amazon just search M3 tap.

You want to paint the flares to match, what? Body color no need to mask. Top color mask and paint.

Since you did not specify what bits and parts your LHS sold you we can't say if you got stuff worth having or stuff the LHS wanted to get rid of.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:24 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

I used two coats of Tamiya PS-5 Black on the outside of the body. Then sprayed 2 coats of Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear on the black. The flat clear will make the black look like a matte finish.

I used the film on the outside of the body to mask off the hood and fender flares. The film does a nice of job of masking and leaves crisp clean lines.

Here is my PRO for an example:

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Old 04-02-2020, 09:08 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Satin black vinyl wrap off Amazon works great for fender flares and hard tops.

Paint black under the body first and apply on the outside.

When it scuffs up it looks like the proper plastic complete with Knicks and dings.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:16 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Here is a list of the parts they put together for me.

Spectrum dx5c radio
Radient rs-ms125-mg mini servo 17g two for dog and two speed
Eco power servo for steering wp110t
Horizon wp 60a fwd/rev brushed esc
Axial ax24004 27t 540 motor
Servo extension leads
Horizon prophet p1mini charger
Smc shorty battery 5500 milamp
Ps5 black paint
Ps12 silver was hoping for metallic

The store I got this from was curbside only so I couldn’t shop or compare. It was way more $$$ than I ever expected but the bug had already bit me. Thanks for the responses. I like the matte look especially for the top. I’ll have to figure out a way to post pics. Trying to find a tap locally so I can start this weekend. Again thanks.
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Old 04-02-2020, 10:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

You are going to get a lot of opinions on the electronics. There is nothing wrong with what your hobby shop put together. It is a budget set of electronics that will give you all you need to get it up and running. I'll give you some perspective here:

That ESC / Motor combo is about $60.00. You can go with the big brushless systems like Castle Mamba X ESC / Castle motor and spend over $200.00 or the Hobbywing Axe 550 system for around the same money.

They sold you an ESC and motor combo that will work. It may be a bit too fast of a motor for this type of vehicle. Now speed is OK if you like to rip these in a straight line. If you rip it and cut the wheel you are going to roll the truck. Being your first RC and your daughter using it I would go with a 35T motor and I would also possibly change the 14T pinion in the kit to a 12 maybe.

The most recommended great brushed setup you will see on this forum is:

Hobbywing 1080 ESC with a Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster motor that will run you about the same $60.00. You will also get more parameters to adjust with the Hobbywing 1080 over the Dynamite.

The servo I am not familiar with but the spec look fine for a first time owner. For the $40.00 I would keep it and as I learn and grow in the hobby upgrade it down the road if you see fit.

The radio is a good radio. You won't have any issues with it. You will see a lot of guys around here use the Flysky as for the price point they give you a lot of features you won't get with the Spektrum radio at that price point. You will spend a lot more to get those features in a Spektrum radio.

The charger is fine as your first. In the future you may want to get one that can charge two batteries at once and one with more Watts so that you can charge the batteries faster.
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:33 AM   #8
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Appreciate the feedback. Thanks. Think I found a 3mm tap. So all that is left is some dulling paint and I should be good to go.
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Old 04-03-2020, 09:12 AM   #9
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

For your build here are some tips from my experience and others building this kit so far.

1. Take your time and if you feel your patience running out walk away and come back later.

2. The parts are of better quality from the past and have a tight fit. When putting screws in get them all started on that part so that everything is lined up before tightening each screw down. If a part is really tight alternate tightening each screw and do not over torque them. I had clicking in my axles due to over tightening the diff covers. Same advice for the transmission. You don't want to over tighten those and have to go back and tear that beast down.

3. Take your time with the transmission. There are a few bearings that are 10mm and 11mm. They are so close in size I ended up using the 10mm in the wrong place. I was at the final gear assembly and could not fit the 10mm bearing as I used the 11mm already. I had to go backwards to find where I put that 10mm and swap it with the 11mm.

4. When assembling the dig and 2 speed part of the transmision you will have a slide fork that a shaft attaches to and exits the transmission. Best to screw on the plastic bits to this shaft before attaching the fork. If you do it after the transmission is built you will have a tough time getting those parts installed.

5. In the final steps of the transmission there is a transmission mount ear on the passenger side. You need to install this first as the screw that holds that piece in place is behind the last cover you attach. If you forget you cannot access the hole for that screw and will need to remove the cover to do so.

6. If you find trouble lining up a part with multiple screws use your 3mm tap and sink it about 2mm into the hole. This will make it easier to start the screws or at least it made it easier for me.

7. Shocks: I have never used green slime on the o-rings but many people swear by it. All four of my shocks are leaking. Ask your hobby shop if they have some. If not make sure to coat all o-rings with the shock oil before installing them.


8. People have issues with the really tiny C rings that hold the damper disc on the shock shaft. Get the first on on the shaft and put it on the table to push the shaft until the C ring snaps in. You can use your hands with this method so that if the C ring pops and goes flying it will hit your hand and hopefully land right there and not fly to some unknown black hole that you don't know is in your house.

9. Steering and suspension linkage. Pay real close attention to the orientation and shape of the link ends you screw on as well as making sure you have the right size shaft. Many times people will use an incorrect link end or incorrect link size in the wrong spot causing issues that take a bit to figure out. Just take your time and pay real close attention to detail in the instruction booklet.

10. When you go to get your 3mm tap look for a small power driver. With so many screws if you go to town on your build your hand will be fatigued. Do NOT use it on the shock towers. I suggest either setting the torque low or stop just short of the screw being fully seated and then use a hand tool to finish it up without over torquing. I use a Ryobi from Home Depot HERE

11. Get a good set of hex drivers if you do not have any. Protek and MIP are some really good quality ones. You can get ones with handles or just the bits with a long shaft that will fit right in your power driver or both. Here is a nice set of ProTek drivers HERE

12. Get zip ties!!! They are great for tidying up your wiring and keeping the wires from getting caught in places you don't want them.

13. If you do not have a soldering iron ask your hobby shop if they can make sure your electronics are all soldered and the battery / ESC connector are the same. You generally need to solder the wires from the ESC to the motor and then if the battery plug on the ESC is different from the SMC battery (which BTW is a great battery and a great company to deal with) you will need to solder on a new connector. If you have never soldered and or do not have a good solder iron ask if your shop can perform this service for you.

14. Nothing else I can think of. I just did not want to have a list of 13 items

Take your time, have fun, and post up your progress in a new build thread or use this thread to ask for any assistance if you have any questions or run into any issues.

***From your post I am assuming you are new to RC and have never built one of these before. This is why I shared my experience and tips. Some things you may have already known from past experience in other areas. I just wanted to provide some tips for things I thought you should watch out for or for things you may not know if you are entirely new to the hobby.
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Old 04-03-2020, 10:19 AM   #10
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Welcome to the site!

If you have questions there are lots of great builders right here willing to help you.

If you paint Lexan paint on the outside of the body it is automatically doing to look matte. The Tamiya Flat Clear also works.

I just bought a 3mm tap from RPP Hobby. You can also get a set of taps and drill bits from Du-Bro. Don't forget the tap handle.
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...UB372&CartID=3
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...UB633&CartID=4

If you are going to build with a power driver ensure it has a clutch that will stop in plastics. I have a Craftsman and DeWalt that will do just that.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:52 PM   #11
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Wow thanks for the warm welcome. I will definitely be back here often. I have a desalt drill motor with clutch and bit driver not sure if it has clutch. May ride to the auto parts store near my house to see what they have. I live in a small town in Mississippi. Hobby store is a good drive from my house. As is Lowe’s and Home Depot. Any other place to get that paint besides a hobby shop? Think we are going to start on it tonight. As for pics what host do y’all use to upload pics to? Wish I could just send straight from phone.
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:28 PM   #12
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

You can if you use Tapatalk.
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:37 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

10/4
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:15 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

1:1 18 jl rubicon plan for scx to follow suit.


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Old 04-03-2020, 06:17 PM   #15
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:36 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbjeep View Post
Hobby store is a good drive from my house. As is Lowe’s and Home Depot. Any other place to get that paint besides a hobby shop?.
Hmmmmm good question. Other than a hobby shop I have seen craft stores that carry Tamiya PS paint like Michaels. With the pandemic however I doubt a craft store would be open if your state is on lockdown.

Here is another option though if you cannot get your hands on paint locally.

Go to Amazon and look for another basic body. At the same time order up your paint. It will get to you before you finish the build hopefully.

My reasoning for this is the plan I have. The Jeep JL body is so nice I really want to take my time with it. I plan to buy the 67 Chevy body from Axial and do a simple one color paint job and use it as a basher body that I don't care about. This way when I work on that nice Jeep JL body I will take my time and not try to rush to play with it.

Also I believe this will be your first body to paint. This will give you a practice run where you can get a bit of experience and as all of us learn a lot from the first time. You then can take more time on the JL body and have at least some experience painting. Buy extra paint and paint the bed of a truck with the flat black. This way any mistakes are not a big deal and you will probably do a better job the second time around.

Yes everyone here is great at spending everyone else's $$$$

***Just saw your recent post. Nice rig! I have an 18' JL Sahara with premium soft top only and Punkin Orange.

***Oh one more thing. Not sure if you are aware, make sure the paint you buy is for Polycarbonate. Tamiya lists these paint codes with PS. That paint sort of etches itself and bonds with the poly body. Other paints will not adhere and not stick well. They will flake and chip off unless you were to seal them with a clear. Just another tip so you don't waste money on paint that will not give great results.

Last edited by $uicide $hift; 04-03-2020 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 04-07-2020, 10:14 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

The build has begun. I feel like Iíve been wrenching on the real thing. Detail is crazy. Hands hurt. Eyes are crossed. Missing a few parts in hardware bag. Like the special 18mm screw for driver side upper shock mount. M3x18. Had to trim the receiver box to fit the one that comes with radio above.

Also the micro servers I listed above do not come with the proper piece to hook them up. Forgot to tap track bar bracket hole. Little bastard is not coming out. Noticed there is a mount in the spare parts bag though.

Corona has this project on pins and needles. HobbyTown is closed. Been wanting to get the bits for electric screwdriver and exchange these micro servers. Daughter turns 10 tomorrow and she has been right there the whole time.

Other than those things Iím hooked. Got to mount tires, paint body/interior, assemble body.

Can I run the jeep without the micros as long as I have the shift levers ty wrapped in place?


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Old 04-08-2020, 07:36 AM   #18
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbjeep View Post
Can I run the jeep without the micros as long as I have the shift levers ty wrapped in place?
Somebody else did this with rubber bands and it worked. As long as when they are set in place the gears in the transmission are meshed and it stays in place you should be good until the shift servos are installed.
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Old 04-08-2020, 11:55 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Well Iím scratching my head. As soon as I connect battery motor is wide open forward. Everything else is off. Transmitter as no power. It did but know steering and throttle are dead channels.

Paint went well but ran out of silver. So Iím kinda stuck right now these electronics have me scratching head Iím not gonna lie. Esc has power. But as soon as I connect battery the SOB takes off. Help a newb out. Lol


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Old 04-09-2020, 07:32 AM   #20
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Default Re: 1st build to match 1:1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbjeep View Post
Well I’m scratching my head. As soon as I connect battery motor is wide open forward. Everything else is off. Transmitter as no power. It did but know steering and throttle are dead channels.

Paint went well but ran out of silver. So I’m kinda stuck right now these electronics have me scratching head I’m not gonna lie. Esc has power. But as soon as I connect battery the SOB takes off. Help a newb out. Lol


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Your transmitter was off? You want your transmitter on first always. This way if the ESC was stuck when powered off with throttle forward the vehicle won't go flying when you turn it on as it will see the transmitter first and that it is in a neutral position.

Have you gone through the instructions to calibrate your ESC?


I believe this is the ESC you are using here: https://www.horizonhobby.com/DYNS221...AaAs9tEALw_wcB


ESC Calibration Procedure

Ensure proper ESC function by calibrating the ESC to your transmitter
inputs.


1. Power OFF the ESC.
2. Ensure your transmitter is powered ON, the throttle is not
reversed, the throttle trim is neutral and the throttle travel range is
at 100%. Disable any special functions such as ABS, etc.
3. Keep the throttle at neutral and power ON the ESC.
4. The ESC automatically calibrates the throttle range after 3
seconds.
5. One long beep will sound when the ESC is ready to run.
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