Wraith Beginners Guide

[Yardracer]

Originally Posted by DudeWalker

Great thread and thanks again Harley. I first posted back on page 30 with a question and got immediate reply - awesome.

I recently pulled the trigger and got the PS RTR. Selling off the Tx/Rx and beadlocks and tires (I have all that stuff already). Keeping ESC, motor, and servo.

As far as the servo, I know it's weak and short-lived. I have read that the output spline shaft bushings are really weak. I observed this. Before I put too many miles on the servo, I decided to try to help it out. I had a dead Futaba s9351 in my box and ripped it open. Took the spline shaft bearings off it and they are a direct fit to the Axial servo. Replaced the stock white bushings with the bearings from the 9351. Perfect fit. No slop no play. Running servo at 6v Turnigy 4$ BEC. We will see how she holds up.

Thanks for all the great info

I also fixed my stocker this way, but with Airtronics bearings. It should hold me over for a bit until I get a better servo.

[gbean]

Originally Posted by Harley

Sometimes wheels and tires just don't like to work together. Sometimes it just takes patience and sometimes they just plain won't work.

I've found setting the rim on a cup that matches the diameter of the rim can give you an advantage when mounting a tire.
Seems like it takes practice regardless.

[creeping_death]

last time out, my stock steering linkage failed. the screw that connects the drag link to the tie rod stripped. should i just replace the plastic steering components or upgrade to aluminum? i feel the plastic lets it have some give so it don't trash the servo but i don't want to keep replacing the same plastic steering components either.

[Harley]

Originally Posted by creeping_death

last time out, my stock steering linkage failed. the screw that connects the drag link to the tie rod stripped. should i just replace the plastic steering components or upgrade to aluminum? i feel the plastic lets it have some give so it don't trash the servo but i don't want to keep replacing the same plastic steering components either.

You can repair that stripped rod by just using a machine screw to get you by.

Replacing the tie rod and drag link will put a lot of stress on the stock servo. You will likely need to replace it not long after replacing the steering links.

Stay away from the chinese aluminum links like Hot Racing and such. They are garbage. Find yourself a nice Ti or Stainless setup that utilizes Revo rod ends instead of 3mm stuff.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Harley

You can repair that stripped rod by just using a machine screw to get you by.

Replacing the tie rod and drag link will put a lot of stress on the stock servo. You will likely need to replace it not long after replacing the steering links.

Stay away from the chinese aluminum links like Hot Racing and such. They are garbage. Find yourself a nice Ti or Stainless setup that utilizes Revo rod ends instead of 3mm stuff.

Besides the fact that replacing it with a m3 screw holds better you can use a m3 screw that is quite a bit longer than the self tapping screw that axial suggests without hurting anything.

[creeping_death]

Originally Posted by Harley

You can repair that stripped rod by just using a machine screw to get you by.

Replacing the tie rod and drag link will put a lot of stress on the stock servo. You will likely need to replace it not long after replacing the steering links.

Stay away from the chinese aluminum links like Hot Racing and such. They are garbage. Find yourself a nice Ti or Stainless setup that utilizes Revo rod ends instead of 3mm stuff.

Originally Posted by nigels_world

Besides the fact that replacing it with a m3 screw holds better you can use a m3 screw that is quite a bit longer than the self tapping screw that axial suggests without hurting anything.

thanks for the info, exactly what i was looking for! just another example of why i love this site!

[puffntough760]

stock esc replacement? cheapest. thanks

[Harley]

Originally Posted by puffntough760

stock esc replacement? cheapest. thanks

Read the motor and ESC sticky for a ton of info. If your stock esc must be replaced you could just grab a Castle Sidewinder for cheap.

[Odd-M]

My first post here... Kit's on it's way as we speak, and this will be my first non-assembled car. Not goin' wild at first, just Vanquish steering link, brushed Novak Eiger 35t and beadlocks with weights. Hope I can have some fun crawling and trailing it without blowing too much $$$. This will not be a basher, have other cars for that. Planning on moving the battery forward and hinge the hood for easy access. I've read I-dont-know-how-many treads but do have some noob questions.

Servo, going etiher Savox 1256TG for "budget" or the more expensice Hitec 7954SH. Reading this forum I get the idea that Savox is crap and Hitec is "the shit"?
The esc/motor comes with an extra 3A 6V BEC. Will it be enough for these servos?
Will there be enough space up front for the ESC, or do I have to move it to the back? If back, best way of doing so?

[gbean]

Savöx gets a lot of crap here. So does anything else that isn't the mainstream high dollar stuff.

That said, I've been running a Savöx 1230SG (500oz/in for $75) in my heavy big-tired Wraith for at least 8 months, through Axialfest and weekly GTG's without issue. I am not certain about that 3A BEC being capable. I've been using a castle BEC.

Your choice in electronics are good. The Novak Rockstar 35T motor suits the wraith well. I run the same motor on 3S.

Get aluminum knuckles and hubs.
Reinforce the stock drive shafts with lengths of 9/32" piano wire epoxied into the hollow shaft.
do all the cheap/free mods and have fun.

[Odd-M]

Stock knuckles and hubs will do for now. Planning on upgrading when things break. Can you PM me link/pictures of that piano wire-thing? At least I'm hoping Axial has made them better that Traxxas.

[gbean]

Some people actually use Traxxas maxx shafts as a cheap drive line upgrade.
Search RCC "piano wire wraith mod" and you'll find a how to I believe.

[Odd-M]

Sorry.. Having trouble finding something good

[gbean]

Cut a length of 9/32" piano wire to fit inside the male side of the splined drive shaft.
Use a 5 minute epoxy to glue the wire inside. This will help prevent twisting and breaking the shaft.
This is really just a stop gap measure.
Getting the MIP drive shaft set is the best bet. ( MIP part #11116, street price around $60)

[Odd-M]

Will 2200 mah 3S 30C (66A) be enough for Novak Eiger/Rockstar 35t combo? Can't find any good info from Novak on this.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Odd-M

Will 2200 mah 3S 30C (66A) be enough for Novak Eiger/Rockstar 35t combo? Can't find any good info from Novak on this.

Plenty.

[simon170]

Just to check... you can still use the spur gear cover with the 87 tooth spur?

[Dostradamas]

Originally Posted by simon170

Just to check... you can still use the spur gear cover with the 87 tooth spur?

Yes you can fit a 87T 48P spur inside the stock gear cover.

[simon170]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

Yes you can fit a 87T 48P spur inside the stock gear cover.

Thanks brother.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I looked around and have not seen this asked but is there a way to mount a servo winch in the stock chassis?