Welded up my first Wraith Chassis

[rngrchad]

Just wanted to share my first ever chassis build. Started this this morning and tinkered around on it all day. I had a blast and it's gone real smooth. I used Harleys front hood frame and his rear frame of the ibex build but I shrank my upper cage to keep the cog lower than the traditional ibex rigs. Pretty stoked. Welded it all up with way way less than ideal setup. Wire feeding .030 straight Flux is a f'n mess and a bit of a pita at times but the old Lincoln wire feeder got her almost done. Can't wait to see how the wraith fits into this!!!

[rngrchad]

GotGot it close to roller status:


free photo upload
I changed the lower cab frame design as the regular square-framework interfered with the upper links during suspension travel.

[rngrchad]

I've run into a hangup with rear shock mounting. I should have made my rear a little narrower or a smidgen wider so the shock Springs wouldn't rub the frame. . . I think I'm going to have to outboard the shocks or in board them so they are only attached to one ear of the shock mount on the axle. I was contemplating simply redesigning the entire rear end of the frame above the axle but I'm afraid that tying back into the back of the cab tubes would be sketchy from all the weld joints meeting there(four tubes tie into the lower cab corners). So I'm open to ideas.
Here is what I'm dealing with:

image ru

image ru

Fortunately the Front shock mounts will be a breeze.
free pic

[TacoCrawler]

Mount the lower end of the shock(s) on the outside of the lower mount(s)
...instead of being on the inside.
This will move the lower shock ends outward more.

You can even add a longer bolt and spacer(s)
to extend the lower mounting width more
(but too much leverage/twist using the plastic mount could be of issue)

I spaced inside the mount(s) as well so it can't collapse when the bolt is tightened.
This will strengthen the lower mount 'cuz the shock's bolt still goes thru both ear tabs.

ie:

[rngrchad]

Ok it is official rolling chassis. Shocks are set to where I want the bouncer to be once finished. It achieves full droop to the bump stops without any interference! Flexes great in all angles as well. Latest pic now that I've got the shock locations finished.

I still have alot of cross bracing and cleanup to do yet but I'm itching to get my HH 2200KV pushing them swampers around on 4s.

[Billy D]

Oh man that thing will be fun on 4s. Nice build so far!!!!

[TacoCrawler]

might need to add a little more triangulation to that roof
if ya expect it to survive some rolls or tumbles.

You could sheet the top of the roof and add strength.
while still retaining the ability to place a driver/passenger inside more easily.

Just depends on how abusive yer going to be.



I say rock 6s

[rngrchad]

Thanks BillyD. Taco Crawler, I might get me a little 6s battery and see how she bounces with that ! Your cross bracing looks about what I planned on doing. Thanks for the blue inlays....gives me some good ideas.

On a side not; i went to pull my MIP driveshaft off the transmission and the damn set screw is rounded out! Argh!!!!! Can't get it off. I really don't want to drill it out.

[kgb424]

I had to use a grinding wheel on my Dremel to get the Mips connector off the output shaft on my SCX10 transmission

Got it off, and ended up ruining both the Mips connector and the output shaft on the transmission

Tried to cut a slot in the set screw and use a bladed screwdriver and it didn't work

Had to buy new outputs for the transmission and new Mips connector

It was not cheap a fix

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by kgb424

I had to use a grinding wheel on my Dremel to get the Mips connector off the output shaft on my SCX10 transmission

Got it off, and ended up ruining both the Mips connector and the output shaft on the transmission

Tried to cut a slot in the set screw and use a bladed screwdriver and it didn't work

Had to buy new outputs for the transmission and new Mips connector

It was not cheap a fix

Kgb, I'm not really looking forward to messing with it right now. All I want to do is get this chassis done and give it hell, not mess with darn 1.5mm stripped mip screw! I've rounded out a few 1.5mm screws but never had one so locked on like this. I'm guessing whatever dab of "blue" loctite that came in that little MIP plastic container is stronger stuff than my traditional blue LocTite brand. Smh. Anyhow, I'm plugging away at this thing tonight. It's coming along nicely. I'm pretty excited about how the cross bracing is really giving it the finishing touches. I'll get some pics up soon as my wife gets home. My little girl is being a wonderful handful tonight.

[E. Bryant]

When dealing with thread locker on small screws, I've found that heat is helpful in avoiding damage. A soldering iron works great; apply the tip directly to the screw head for 20-30 seconds or so and it'll usually soften the thread locker. I won't claim 100% success, but it's saved my bacon a few times.

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by E. Bryant

When dealing with thread locker on small screws, I've found that heat is helpful in avoiding damage. A soldering iron works great; apply the tip directly to the screw head for 20-30 seconds or so and it'll usually soften the thread locker. I won't claim 100% success, but it's saved my bacon a few times.

Thats a great idea and I actually tried the soldering iron trick to heat the screw but there is so much surface area of metal on that shaft that it didn't hardly even get the screw warm. Maybe if I had a heavy duty iron but now I've already mucked up the screw.

Got alot done tonight in a few hours. Lots of bracing is done now although I still need 6 more pieces of rod to finish. Here's where it stands now. It's just tacked, I need to go back through and lay more wire on the joints. Interesting, I was complaining about the lack of quality welds on this and my friend asked me how much electrode tip I am starting my arcs with and how much stick out I'm using. He said "it's not mig man, you really need 1/2" of stick out on Flux Core, you can't run the gun like you do with 75/25 gmaw!" This whole time I've been arcing at 1/4" stick out. Just like on mig. Switched to 1/2" electrode stick out and it's alot better. Kinda embarrassed I didn't know that before.


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[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by rngrchad

I've rounded out a few 1.5mm screws but never had one so locked on like this.

what driver are you using ?

Don't say ball driver...
because those strip set screws like butter.

Both the ball driver and set screw are soft steel
and the tolerances of both fitted together isn't very precise.

Did ya try using an easy-out extractor for removal
before trying more desperate measures ?

Yer using blue locktite and not red... right ?

If you get it out...

might want to look for stainless steel set screws to replace.
those will be harder and will deform less with pressure applied during removal.

[rngrchad]

Hey Taco, no ball drivers for me. I use Dynamite drivers and I replace the tips often. Never had much problem on anything and I'm always wrenching on my rigs. I'll have to see if I can find a tiny EZOUT. Pretty annoyed that these heavy duty shafts have 1.5mm whereas the wb8's have 2mm.

Edit. Found one. Here goes...


GOOD NEWS. I miraculously drilled the shaft pin out with a 1/16 bit followed by a metric #40 bit, with no damage to the threads on the drive shaft coupler. Very happy about this. The ez out split the head of the set screw and spun....so the drill was the only option. Glad I had the proper size drill bits to do this.

f

[kgb424]

Lucky

That never works for me

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by kgb424

Lucky

That never works for me

Hehehe. I've drilled alot of bolt heads out in my time, but in my line of work I Usually end up breaking or snapping the bolt heads off, and having to re-weld nuts onto studs to remove the stubborn ones.

Originally Posted by Disco Stu III

Same here. I have trouble with full size bolts and studs, to me that's an insane result!

Yeh, I was really happy to have some new good quality drill bits to use. I don't mess with little stuff like this much, usually wrenching on 20+ton machines haha. .

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by rngrchad

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Looking good

6s will be fun

tig welding works best.

So let's find out if gasless welds are good enough !?

I do all my welding with a Lincoln 180 MIG 75/25
and I'll haft'a say... way cleaner then the splatter flux core welds make

might think to reinforce that uh... um back window span - opening ?
Maybe just a single diagonal support tube(rod) would do.
Or maybe mirror the front windscreen supports.

Looking forward to seeing how your construct holds up to the rigors

[rngrchad]

IT LIVES! Peppy SOB on 4s, and the battery went into lipo-cutoff soon as I shut the video down. Initial impression is really good. I wanted some weight bias towards the rear to keep the front end up. But I'm thinking of ditching the monster 4300mah 4s SMC in favor of something in the 1300MAH range with a small footprint.

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Looking good

6s will be fun

tig welding works best.

So let's find out if gasless welds are good enough !?

I do all my welding with a Lincoln 180 MIG 75/25
and I'll haft'a say... way cleaner then the splatter flux core welds make

might think to reinforce that uh... um back window span - opening ?
Maybe just a single diagonal support tube(rod) would do.
Or maybe mirror the front windscreen supports.

Looking forward to seeing how your construct holds up to the rigors

Right O' Taco. A #3 Bottle costs me 300 dollars, pluse 47 to get it filled with 75/25. Thankfullly I've already got a regulator so that'll save me 90 bucks. I'll still need to get a new wire roller for .023, a few more tips for the mig gun as well and of course some .023 Mig Wire. Pretty sure the next chassis I do will be with gas. Flux core is totally do-able if one is careful, but man, MIG would be sooooo much easier far as mess, cleanup and not frying shit all around you with bouncing rolling tiny bb's of molten hot slag Love FCAW at work, but not at home ya know?

I picked up some steel sheet and plan on doing a little more stuff to it to try and give it a finished look. When I'm doing that I'll tack in a rear "window" support brace

[dittohead]

You could always just tack the pieces together and then silver solder the joints after. I use this method and it works really well for me. A silver soldering rig is cheap under $100 for everything you need.