Quote:
Originally Posted by craddock35
(Post 3366996)
It has no drag brake, in my opinion it is way to fast for a Wraith and will do nothing but cog on crawling. Read the first post that Harley put up. If you Want to run brushless and do any kind of crawling it needs to be "Sensored" non sensored will just cog on low end.
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Please understand that I'm not trying to p*** in anybody's cheerios, however I realize it may seem like that. In regards to the VXL system and the relentless amounts of hate it receives,.. I am not sure exactly when it did what to who, but I love mine.
For the record it was not my first choice but it was however a free choice. I did not wear my Traxxas panties and go shopping for it. I was killing brushed motors like it was my job and a buddy said here try this. Now high above on my Traxxas soapbox I will say in the last 2 months I've stuffed at least 150 4000mah 3S packs down it's throat and it has never wimpered.
If your stuck with the VXL-3s esc then you have this silly noob feature called training mode, and it's awesome for crawling, it limits you to 50% power and doubles the resolution of your throttle. So you can crawl on noob mode with 50% of too much, then go to the front yard hit the button on the esc and have 20+mph for open spaces. It's like having a manual electric 2 speed.
On 2S with 16/87 @100% it's a little faster than a jog, I use 2S when me and the dog go to the park for trail rides, still has plenty of wheel speed for trail running and buckets of torque. Crawling @100% on any S requires pretty serious concentration, a little to much input might send it into the neighbors yard. 3S is a hoot PERIOD well til it breaks lol. lf you happen to buy too much power and have a fancy esc you could just set the % of power you'd like to have.
Sure I miss the drag brake, but you can actually train yourself to hold it there with your fingee. Yes it's more difficult but it makes some not so enjoyable trails more fun as line choice and momentum are more critical. Also my Wraith spends a good bit of time with the wheels not touching and the drag only made it fall from the sky like a turd, unless I risk landing on the throttle and donating my driveshafts to the yard. I had it disabled on the stock esc,... do I wish I could just turn it back on? yes.
Cogging... I have 0 cogging, don't believe me? watch for yourself.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/D3gLpfV2kLE" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
That's 16/87 with unweighted tires and the 3S 4000mah in the back. I actually recommend 14/87 for crawling but 16/87 is my do-all gear. There's videos of all sorts of different weights and gearing if you think I'm full of BS, watch them all! I need the views... check for cogging have a good time. Can I run 20/80 with no cogging? no, 18/87 is about the last of the crawlable gears.
Now I'm not saying for everybody to burn what the have and go buy a VXL. But if you have a buddy with one, or pick one up off ebay for 125$,.. I think it's a good buy. It's cheap, durable, waterproof, and has more than enough power. It's also rebuildable, and I have been told you can purchase a lifetime warranty on a new one from Traxxas for like 30 bucks, I don't know this for sure.
No one gearing is perfect for everything so don't be afraid to change it. Crawling takes gear reduction to reduce the strain on the driveline. If you want to have a dedicated crawler and only have a VXL, or an 8th scale buggy motor in the closet, just gear it to the moon. Start at 10/87 if that doesn't work RC4WD I think has down to a 6t pinion, couple that with a 90t spur and the 43/13 diffs and you've got silly gear reduction. The cogging is just a motor below it's designed RPM comfort zone, if you gear any non-sensored motor low enough it should eliminate cogging.
Changing the gearing is easy too, no really... you only need 4 chassis screws, I loosen the back 2 and remove the fronts. I only run the lower screw in my spur cover, all the screws can be easily reached by pulling or compressing the front suspension. I run 14/87 rocks, 16/87 rocks/mix, 18/87mix/highspeed, 20/87 for sand and parking lots, and 22/87 to clear the x-over at the track. I haven't ran all 8 screws since the beginning of October, I actually was testing gearing and forgot to put them all back in before I went to the track and broke the axle. So if I broke the axle with 4 screws and didn't hurt the chassis you guys not trying to break yours have nothing to worry about.
Bottom line... IMO If your the basher guy that's melted 100 bucks worth of engines and wants a waterproof 125$ fix and are willing to make some compromises then maybe the VXL is perfect for you.
Hope this helps somebody, and doesn't offend too many others :roll:
