JHTreyIII's 'Big Metal Bitch' Wraith Build

[joelKID984]

the body work is killer, wrapps all the way round underneath. total PROTECTION

[JHTreyIII]

Originally Posted by joelKID984

the body work is killer, wrapps all the way round underneath. total PROTECTION

Thanks man, I think I'm going to ditch the skid though, it hangs up on rocks too easily. Looks great but doesn't function very well.

[johnnyh66]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

I think I'm going to ditch the skid though, it hangs up on rocks too easily. Looks great but doesn't function very well.

No, keep it... so ya get hung up once in a while... no big deal.

hehehe, these noobs and their Wraith axles will never defeat my Melons!
Oh, wait... did I type that out loud

[JHTreyIII]

Whatever dude. I admit my wraith is a HUGE BITCH...and I sucked it up at Busse.

I'm ready to run C2 again, I can compete in that class MUCH better. My chevy is pretty solid. My wraith is a big uncoordinated lug.

[badhoopty]

Originally Posted by johnnyh66

hehehe, these noobs and their Wraith axles will never defeat my Melons!

says the newb running xors.

[badhoopty]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

Thanks man, I think I'm going to ditch the skid though, it hangs up on rocks too easily. Looks great but doesn't function very well.

yeah man, take it off or slap some ae chassis protector sheet on it.

TowerHobbies.com | 9787 Associated Chassis Protective Sheet

TowerHobbies.com | 1155 JConcepts Clear Chassis Protective Sheet (2)

the ae stuff is way beefier and thick than the jr.

[JHTreyIII]

It's gone...I don't like having to take it off every time I want to drop the motor/tranny/skid. Those little body mount screw holes are so small I'd rather not run a screw in and out of it that often. It's just a matter of time before it strips out. I'm going to stick it in the classifieds, see if I can get a couple bucks for it.

[JHTreyIII]

So the saga continues with my motor failures...burned up three so far. These are the setups for each:

1. HH Torquemaster Pro 25T with stock 48P at 20/80 - Well duh...
2. Team Brood Apocalypse 25T Type GS with 32P at 14/56 - Hmmmm...
3. Team Brood Creep 25T Type T with 32P at 12/60 - Uh, what?

I just don't get it. I can't find any binding, everything turns super free. The last one (number 3 above) I used my temp gauge and the motor never got above 135*. I've got an FXR in this thing, maybe that's the culprit. It would have been a BRXL from the get go but JRH was out of stock for months. A brand new BRXL is supposed to arrive in the mail today. I'm going to switch it out. I'm praying that solves my problem. The problem now it that I don't have any more motors to run in it...I BURNED THEM ALL UP! WTF.

[sally1800]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

So the saga continues with my motor failures...burned up three so far. These are the setups for each:

1. HH Torquemaster Pro 25T with stock 48P at 20/80 - Well duh...
2. Team Brood Apocalypse 25T Type GS with 32P at 14/56 - Hmmmm...
3. Team Brood Creep 25T Type T with 32P at 12/60 - Uh, what?

I just don't get it. I can't find any binding, everything turns super free. The last one (number 3 above) I used my temp gauge and the motor never got above 135*. I've got an FXR in this thing, maybe that's the culprit. It would have been a BRXL from the get go but JRH was out of stock for months. A brand new BRXL is supposed to arrive in the mail today. I'm going to switch it out. I'm praying that solves my problem. The problem now it that I don't have any more motors to run in it...I BURNED THEM ALL UP! WTF.

FXR will not cause you to burn up your motor. How is you pinion to spur gear mesh. To tight will burn it up really quick.

[JHTreyIII]

Originally Posted by saydee1800

FXR will not cause you to burn up your motor. How is you pinion to spur gear mesh. To tight will burn it up really quick.

Loose enough that there's a tiny amount of slop in it. I also pulled that Super Shafty setup with Metal RRP Slipper off and put a plastic spur back on.

[JHTreyIII]

I've also got a rather heavy trigger finger. I'm running it wide open down the street and through the neighbors yards (they love it). But I feel like that shouldn't matter. I need to have a setup that allows me to run wide open.

[thzero]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

I've also got a rather heavy trigger finger. I'm running it wide open down the street and through the neighbors yards (they love it). But I feel like that shouldn't matter. I need to have a setup that allows me to run wide open.

Well that could be it; you are probably undergeared is you are wide open most of the time. Is the battery hot or the esc hot?

General rule of thumb that I've seen people mention is the following...

Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries = undergeared
Cool motor, hot controller, hot batteries = overgeared
Warm motor, warm controller, warm batteries = happy components

Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more

[JHTreyIII]

The motor was around 130F the battery was warm but I would guess around 100F or less the ESC has been around ambient temp, maybe a little over. Again, I'm at 12/60. That seems pretty conservative on the gearing. I see people running 14/56 all the time with 3S.

[thzero]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

The motor was around 130F the battery was warm but I would guess around 100F or less the ESC has been around ambient temp, maybe a little over. Again, I'm at 12/60. That seems pretty conservative on the gearing. I see people running 14/56 all the time with 3S.

Wide open at 14/56? Mine is 20/80, but I hardly run it wide open because its way too slow compared to my 'wide open' cars.

What batteries are you running?

[JHTreyIII]

Originally Posted by thzero

Wide open at 14/56? Mine is 20/80, but I hardly run it wide open because its way too slow compared to my 'wide open' cars.

What batteries are you running?

Well I just assume people are running wide open. It seems like you'd want the ability to anyway. I'm running some G Force 3S 3300 mAh 30C batteries from valuehobby.com.

[thzero]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

Well I just assume people are running wide open. It seems like you'd want the ability to anyway. I'm running some G Force 3S 3300 mAh 30C batteries from valuehobby.com.

30C should be fine; the C rating is always questionable from just about everyone since it seems to be measured differently.

When you say 'burned up' what do you mean exactly? Have you replaced the brushes? Perhaps since you are doing a lot of wide open, you need to go with harder brushes that don't wear as fast?

[sally1800]

Originally Posted by JHTreyIII

I've also got a rather heavy trigger finger. I'm running it wide open down the street and through the neighbors yards (they love it). But I feel like that shouldn't matter. I need to have a setup that allows me to run wide open.

That is why I have switch most of my truck to Brushless. More power and not much maintenance.

If I had the money every one would be brushless.

[sally1800]

Originally Posted by thzero

30C should be fine; the C rating is always questionable from just about everyone since it seems to be measured differently.

When you say 'burned up' what do you mean exactly? Have you replaced the brushes? Perhaps since you are doing a lot of wide open, you need to go with harder brushes that don't wear as fast?

Brushes where much fast than you think. I had to change mine every month.

[JHTreyIII]

Originally Posted by thzero

When you say 'burned up' what do you mean exactly? Have you replaced the brushes? Perhaps since you are doing a lot of wide open, you need to go with harder brushes that don't wear as fast?

I just mean it quit like the other two did. I haven't pulled it apart yet but I can see from the side of it that there is still the majority of the brushes left. I'll pull it apart, maybe tomorrow, and clean it. I'm also going to put the BRXL in it tomorrow. We'll see what it looks like. I've already warned EddieO at Brood its coming back. He said my last one was massively over geared. Maybe it still is, maybe it's just heavy enough that it needs to be geared way low.

[JHTreyIII]

Okay so I pull this thing apart today and put in the BRXL. Then I cleaned the motor and all kinds of black sh!t came out. Now it's running again, seems to be doing fine. I ran it around in the street to see how hot I could get it. I got it up to 161F at one time so I think if I ran this thing wide open I could still cook it. I just need to be conscious of that. I'm going to run it tomorrow at Foster, we'll see how she does. Maybe it just got so coated with crap that it wasn't making good enough contact between the comm and the brushes. Who knows? I can tell you I'm tired of screwing with it though, I just want to drive!

Man I can't say enough about these new IROK's either. At first I was skeptical that they'd be able to keep up with my 1.9 pit bulls. They're not quite as soft. But they're giving it the old college try. 100% better than my Proline TSL's. They fit the truck better too. I don't have mine lowered like everyone else and I felt the TSL's were a little short looking. These things really look nice. I'll be sure to get some better photos when I take her out tomorrow.