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Thread: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

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Old 04-21-2012, 02:41 PM   #1
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Default Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

I bought a Wraith used here, the previous owner was running lipo, I was told by just switching the connectors ro Nimh style that it would work, but I also know from factory it has a lipo option turned off.

The crawler powers up and lights turn on with Nimh, but I get no control, and thats with a new rx/tx.

What do I need to do?
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Old 04-21-2012, 03:19 PM   #2
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

I am assuming you are running the ae2 esc. It is set for lipo cut off from the factory you need to turn it off, if you have a castle link that will help if not you have to do it manually. Try recalibrating tx/rx. The type of connectors do not matter.
http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...01-ae2-esc.pdf
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Old 04-21-2012, 03:43 PM   #3
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

So from factory it comes setup to run lipo? I understood that it came with NiMH and the previous owner converted to lipo, and the esc was changed.
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Old 04-21-2012, 03:47 PM   #4
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

Lipo is a much better technology, why would you switch?
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:02 PM   #5
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

No point in running out and buying all new lipo stuff when i have perfectly fine batteries.

I followed the sync directions and still nothing.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:00 PM   #6
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

It will run fine with either type of battery. Lipo is ON from the factory and I switch between NiMh and Lipo all the time. The esc doesn't care what kind of battery is feeding it. All it cares about is the voltage it's receiving. If it won't run, you have other issues.
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:55 AM   #7
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

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Originally Posted by needtocrawl View Post
No point in running out and buying all new lipo stuff when i have perfectly fine batteries.

I followed the sync directions and still nothing.
I thought the same thing as you when I got back in to RC's. Then I tried a buddies lipo just to see. After that run I tossed my NiMh batteries in the trash and bought lipos. You get almost double the run time power with lipos of the same mAh. It's night and day, you would not be leave how much superior a lipo is in every way compared to caveman battery technology of NiMh. I'll run nothing but lipos now.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:43 AM   #8
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

I know about lipo. But that's not going to help my problem.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:58 AM   #9
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

lipo is on from the factory, would be best to turn it off to get the most out of your stick packs.

it shouldnt matter what type the battery is, but maybe its something like your nimh having a higher charge than a fresh 2s lipo so its going into lipo safety mode thinking its a run down 3s.

that is complete speculation. could be the esc is fried... or a servo.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:40 PM   #10
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Default Re: Switching from Lipo to Nimh, what needs to be done?

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Originally Posted by SkinInc69 View Post
I thought the same thing as you when I got back in to RC's. Then I tried a buddies lipo just to see. After that run I tossed my NiMh batteries in the trash and bought lipos. You get almost double the run time power with lipos of the same mAh. It's night and day, you would not be leave how much superior a lipo is in every way compared to caveman battery technology of NiMh. I'll run nothing but lipos now.
Same here. I threw all my NiMH in with an old road car I sold on eBay. Good riddance :P

But ain't no reason that you MUST switch!

LiPo batteries should not be discharged past a certain voltage, so when running LiPo batteries one should enable the cutoff voltage setting in the ESC. Beyond that, there is NO other difference in setup. You will want to disable the cutoff or it'll think your NiMHs are dead before they're really done. But if you're using the same radio, you shouldn't even need to recalibrate it.

Sounds like you've got something else going on. The tx/rx is properly bound, right? Can you test that rx/tx in a different rig to be sure? Can you try the ESC in another rig? Do you have a receiver battery pack you can power the rx and a couple servos with instead of the ESC, just for troubleshooting?
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