JIA's IFS Ultra4 build

[JasonInAugusta]

Thanks, guys.

Working on this thing tonight. Decided to use a Dean's 4R micro plug to go from the FETs to the light bars. If you look at the plug there's a groove molded into the plug. The pin outside of the groove is switch #2 then there's 3, 4, and 5 across the rest of the plug. The MadDogRC LED bars will be wired to the opposite side of this plug, which will supply + from the 850mAh 3-cell LiPo through the FETs to the LEDs. The - connection for each LED will be made at the - side of the plug where I plug the FETs into the 850mAh 3-cell LiPo. All tied together for a common ground.

There's a lot going on in first pic below, but I'll explain so maybe it will help those that get the Overkill RC switch panels. Since I'm powering four LED circuits, I have four FETS. FETs for switches 2 and 3 are labeled with Sharpie and on the left side in this pic. FETs for switches 4 and 5 are also labeled on on the right side. I labeled each FET so if I ever have a problem in the future with a circuit I can go right to the individual components for that circuit without having to trace wires/guess.

Also notice the "X" I drew on the plugs to the Overkill RC switch panel. Since I couldn't label the visible side of the plugs, I drew an "X". This way there's no guessing involved if/when I have to tear into anything under the interior pan. The single plug with no writing from the "X" on it provides power from the RX8's BEC to the 3Racing LED controller. That plug is connected to + and on the channel 2 Y-harness for the 3Racing LED controller. It's feeding power to the 3Racing controller like you would wire a BEC to a servo. Ground is connected between the three devices, + is connected between the output of the Overkill RC switch panel and the + for the channel 2 input on the 3Racing controller. Signal comes from the RX through the Y-harness.

I also used heat shrink to bundle wires and provide abrasion resistance near the Overkill RC switch board. I used 16ga stranded wire to the Dean's micro 4R plug, but used stiff wire so I could bend it to shape. If I had used Dean's 16ga Ultra Wire I'd have to worry about these wires getting near the spur gear. by going with the stiffer stuff and bundling it all with heat shrink, I've (hopefully) eliminated that possibility.

The three switches behind the plugs on the Overkill RC switch panel are (from left to right in the image) for the RX8, Castle BEC Pro, and the Castle BEC. On the black tape behind each switch I've labeled what each switch is for. Again, easy to troubleshoot in the future.

Turning on the RX8 will provide power to the RX, Overkill RC Switch panel (which gets its power through the B/C port on the Futaba RX), the AS-2 servo that shifts the AX2 2-speed, Stig's Hitec HS-35 head servo. From that point if I turn on switch 1 on the Overkill RC panel, the 3Racing LED unit for the rear light bar will also get power from the RX8's BEC.

Turning on the 2nd switch will turn on the Castle BEC Pro which is providing 7V to the front/rear Hitec 7980TH steering servos. The front servo is connected to Stig's head through a Y-harness with the + on the Y powering the Stig from the RX8 and the 7980 side of the Y getting power from the Castle BEC Pro.

The third switch turns on the Castle BEC which is plugged in along with the FETs for the Overkill RC switch panel) to the 850mAh 3-cell LiPo. This isn't a BEC Pro, just the basic blue thing set to 7V. This BEC provides power to the RC4WD wireless winch controller that controls a C.L.A.W V2 winch.

By having all of these switches I can control exactly what's on. Instead of having all of the MadDogRC lights on I can turn on only what's needed. No sense in having the winch and rock lights turned on if I'm doing high-speed stuff at night and don't need to see under the rig or winch. Another advantage is I can turn all the switches off an not have a drain on the LiPos as the rig sits with BECs connected. Much better than having to unplug every time.

Confused yet?

I still have to double-check my work with a meter to make sure I'm not having to go back and fix something later.

This pic looks fairly simple, though.


The top side is deceiving. It looks all tame and stuff but underneath...evil lurks.

[k9popo]

Damn Jason, I have a hard enough time plugging shit into a controller box let alone even attempt that nastiness!!!

This build is simply amazing and keeps getting better and better!!! Cant wait to see it firing on all cylinders

[JasonInAugusta]

I'm getting anxious as well.

Messed around a bit more tonight.

Switch panel powered off the ESC's BEC. For testing I used a ESC on the bench, not the RX8. I need to wire the on/off switch for the RX8 and install power/motor cables.


Switch 1 on. This gives power to the 3Racing LED controller. The orange center lights are at 100% brightness, the tail/brake lights are at 50% here.


Brake light check. 100% brightness on the brakes now.


MadDogRC dual 4" is back in place for the final time. Tomorrow (later today) I'll tie the two ground wires together and run 3 wires under the interior pan to the front of the rig and get all the LED bars wired.

[Antisimplistic]

This thing is pure awesome. Thank you for sharing all the wiring details. I've found lots of wiring diagrams here on RCC, but not too many images of the actual implementations. Yours is, of course, over the top! Have fun with it today. I'll be following along!

[JasonInAugusta]

Thanks man. It's been a challenge to get so much tucked in without having issues. There's what...four different voltages running through this rig? Keeping them isolated is one thing, doing it somewhat neatly is where the head scratching starts.

I came out a few minutes ago and got started again. Decided to work on the wiring that passes forward/back through the rear firewall. There's Castle BEC Pro outputs, servo wires, and the BEC power tap from the Futaba RX for the Overkill RC switch running through that hole. That was fun, let me tell ya.

The two plugs between my fingers in this image are for power. The servo plug feeds the Overkill RC switch panel with 6V from the RX, which is getting it's power from the RX8's BEC circuit. The Dean's 2NB plug is a non-polarized plug that is connected to switch 1 on the Overkill RC panel. That switch is turning ground on/off for the 3Racing LED controller. The servo plug to the right of the shift servo is where Stig plugs in to the channel 1 Y-harness.


Back side of the firewall. I mounted the RX and BEC Pro so the outputs were towards the center. Easier to route everything through the grommet in the firewall. Power input for the BEC Pro is routed along the rockers, under the interior pan.

[JasonInAugusta]

Not sure why, but I looked at the MadDogRC LEDs when I powered them up.

Seeing spots now.

[JasonInAugusta]

How the bench looks right now. Running wires for the on/off switches from Radio Shack. Also running grounds through the switches for the Castle BEC and Castle BEC Pro.

[JasonInAugusta]

Last one for the night.

All switches are wired. I used another Dean's 4R for switching ground on/off for the Castle BEC and BEC Pro. Used the male side here so I couldn't accidentally plug in the 11.1V output from the FETs (the other Dean's 4R in the left of the picture) into the ground side of the BEC power inputs. Also used heat shrink to color code the wire pairs for each switch.

For the heck of it, I weighed the interior pan, just the lexan and wiring. 3.6 oz.



Time to get some rest.

[CuriousGeorge]

What a work of art! It looks like more detail went into this than most KOH 1:1s.

[JasonInAugusta]

I'm not so sure about the detail, but thanks.

Been messing around with wiring the front end tonight. I've run it on the RX8 before so I had motor/battery cables cut/soldered to what was a good length then, but things have changed ever so slightly with component placement up front from then to now so I need slightly longer motor cables. Part of shoe-horning the ESC into its final place meant I had to make a final version of the front Wraith bumper supports I was happy with. There's about a 20mm extension in each bumper support.

With the supports made and bolted in place I dropped in the RX8, RC4WD wireless winch controller, and the battery tray for the main battery. This will hold either a 7.4V or 11.1V 5300mAh Thunder Power battery. Having the battery in helps with determining final power cable length at the ESC.

While all of THAT was together I decided to grab the Dynamic Concepts Rubicon hood that I had rough trimmed for the rig and sent off for Krawler Konceptz to make skins. I had never taken the time to figure out if I wanted to cut slots in the grille for the bumper supports or what.

Tonight I eye-balled where the bumper supports would pass through the grille, marked centers, and broke out the body reamer. Luckily I got it right.

With the front of the hood locked in place by the bumper supports I decided to mark the two rear holes in the hood to bolt it to the Wraith chassis.

Now I don't want to take it apart.

[Antisimplistic]

Obligatory comment: Looks amazing.
Why switch ground instead of power?
Also, you mentioned earlier in the thread hooking up FPS on your flyer. Is there a build thread for that somewhere? I'm thinking of doing a quadracopter myself this year.

[JasonInAugusta]

Originally Posted by Antisimplistic

Obligatory comment: Looks amazing.
Why switch ground instead of power?
Also, you mentioned earlier in the thread hooking up FPS on your flyer. Is there a build thread for that somewhere? I'm thinking of doing a quadracopter myself this year.

I'm switching ground because that's what the Overkill RC panel does. It operates at 6V and I'm running 11.1V to the LEDs. With the voltage and current I'm running I had to use the FETS (too much voltage and current for the Overkill panel) so I'm switching ground on/off for the FETs. That keeps the switch panel operating at 6V but allows it to control the 11.1V for the LEDs.

Thread for that is here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/non-c...-fpv-quad.html

The EagleTree OSD system is overkill, but is the most adaptable system out there when it comes to add-ons and such. I also love the info shown in the display. As soon as I get the flight controller for it it'll go in the air.

[Jayzrc]

So, for those of us still in the learning phase, the FETS and the switch panel are acting like a relay? The switch is simply turning on the higher volt circuit? Or am I confusing myself.

[Antisimplistic]

Originally Posted by JasonInAugusta

I'm switching ground because that's what the Overkill RC panel does. It operates at 6V at I'm running 11.1V to the LEDs. With the voltage and current I'm running I had to use the FETS (too much voltage and current for the Overkill panel) so I'm switching ground on/off for the FETs. That keeps the switch panel operating at 6V but allows it to control the 11.1V for the LEDs.

Thread for that is here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/non-c...-fpv-quad.html

The EagleTree OSD system is overkill, but is the most adaptable system out there when it comes to add-ons and such. I also love the info shown in the display. As soon as I get the flight controller for it it'll go in the air.

Thanks for the clarification on switching ground. Makes perfect sense!

That quad is exactly the same chassis I was planning to build. Great minds!

[JasonInAugusta]

Yup. Just need to get the DJI NAZA with GPS.

[Antisimplistic]

Was planning the same. Thanks for being a test mule! Looking forward to the video, and the rest of this build, whose thread I'll stop hijacking now...

[JasonInAugusta]

No worries.

I plan on getting ALL of the wiring done tonight. If I do I'll have to shoot a lil' video of it 100% functional.

Eager to get it wrapped up.

[JasonInAugusta]

Had to make a run for more heat shrink. Ran out of 3/16".

While at Home Depot I started roaming the aisles.

I remembered someone posted some fiberglass window screen that they used for window nets in the Twin Hammers forum so I hit up the door section to see what they had.

Found some stuff called "Pet Screen" made by Phifer. Packaging says it's designed to put up with dogs jumping on the door, made of vinyl-coated polyester, and is seven times stronger than regular insect screening. 36"x84" roll of black was $20. It looked about right for a window net so I picked up the roll so there's plenty to go around.

I cut out a section to see how it looks on the rig. Looks nice




It's strong, too. I tried pulling/ripping apart this section of scrap from trimming a window net. It won't come apart.


Not sure if I'll just use some small screws to bolt this to the cage from the inside or if I'll make a upper and lower bar from some small steel rod.

Guess it depends on how much effort I want to put into it.

[JasonInAugusta]

Chuggin' along.

[Farmer]

I work with pet screen all the time!!! Man I feel like a ass for never using it this way Especially since I literally have thousands of feet. Looking sick as usual sir
Later,
Farmer