SkaldidDog's "Buck-Nasty" Wraith

[SkaldidDog]

Please see page 9 post #162.

Cheers,

J

[Sevastra]

Doh! Didnt read far enough along before posting. Hell, didnt realize there was 15 pages or so. Interested in duplicating those mounts? Could use a set for my next project.

Looks like the shocks are hindering the rear articulation a bit? Had a similar issue on mine and came up with a pretty simple solution, tho I still debate if there's any performance gain / loss.. I took a tie-rod end with a 45 degree bend and bolted it in place where the lower shocks mount to the axle housing. From there I spin the shock and bolt it to the end of the tie-rod end (where the rod usually goes) This allows more flex in the rear while retaining the shock capability.

But, as I mentioned I'm not sure if there's really a performance gain. Just allows the rear to flex that much more.

Can provide a picture if needed, just got to put mine back together.

[SkaldidDog]

Thanks for the suggestion. The rear axle articulates freely across the full range of shock travel. I'll keep your suggestion in mind if I run into problems.

J

[SkaldidDog]

Yesterday I replaced my bend front links with straight 7075 versions. I've been having trouble with rod ends popping off to the side of the pillow balls and wondered if straight links would solve the problem. After a two mile romp yesterday PM the problem is apparently gone. The only skid plate mod was a little filing and everything articulates freely.







Remarkably there has been no compromise yet with this change. New links are 0.5oz lighter for the pair, steering throw is increased with no tire-rub on the links and rod ends stay centered. It's a rare win-win change.

J

[SkaldidDog]

I'm trying losi golds on the rear and will try a couple rates up from the HPI purples in front this weekend. Still 10R/17.5F oils. Gotta improve how the suspension works.

Will advise.

J

[SkaldidDog]

I finally bent a rear axle and was tired of carrying two wheel lug sockets on the trail (HD fronts, stock rears), so I'm in the process of knocking out G5Ti 6mm rear shafts. The key to them (and all of my other axles) is the short length of thread and maximum diameter of material between the bearing seat and the hex nut. This is what resists bending.

Planning.



SLW compatible M5 nylock flange nuts.



Polished to a gently press fit.





So far so good.



The flange ends are intentionally long. I will trim them to tune their length during installation. My plan is for the two shafts to butt up tight against each other and bottom out on he sides of the locker. This will prevent lateral slop and allow sufficient material for the VP locker set screws to grab. If you've seen how the stock shafts are poorly engaged by the locker set screws due to their [shaft] short length you'll know what I mean.

Hope to finish them tonight.

J

[rockhugger]

These look freakin awesome.

I'm curious why nobody puts indents for the set screws, or just a through hole and a traxxas style drive pin, for the ultimate in no slop? Am I missing something?

Again, these look very pro.

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by rockhugger

These look freakin awesome.

I'm curious why nobody puts indents for the set screws, or just a through hole and a traxxas style drive pin, for the ultimate in no slop? Am I missing something?

Again, these look very pro.

The through pin is not a bad idea when paired with the spade but there would not be much material around the pin. The set screws from VP almost look like those Traxxas thread pins that were cut off.

Cheers,

J

[SkaldidDog]

Put another 4 hours in last night and finished up my axles. I had to drill and tap three more lockout holes to 4mm and make 6mm M4 screws from some 10mm versions. I grooved the axles for the link mounts and lockout screws. They ended up weighing very close to the stock axles with no effort to cut weight.

From this pic you can see the axles butted up against each other. There is no lateral slop and plenty of room for the VP locker grub screws.



Beef.



The key design point, thickness under the hex and short thread section.



Buttoned up and flush.



And a bead of goop all the way around both sides to keep crap out of the axle/diff and add some strength.



Time to test.

J

[ROWDY RACING]

When will the 7075 axles be used?

[SkaldidDog]

I need a V1 upgrade kit from VP in order to build them. They are doing a run of those kits right now. They'll ship the axles when they ship the kit, diff covers, carrier retainers, panhard mount and link mounts. I'm betting on 3 weeks or so.

[rob_b]

I think it's time for some 7075 lockouts...

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by rob_b

I think it's time for some 7075 lockouts...

I agree. I want lockouts that thread onto the axle housing. No damn screws.

I finally played with the MMP CHEAT settings. Man I should have done this a long time ago.

I'm at these settings now. Awesome difference in wheel speed with no impact on low speed crawling. Definitely chews up amps quicker and motor gets a little warmer. ESC does not seem to care at all. I'm never going back.



This VP setup is amazingly tough. I've put 6 miles of rocky, nasty gulley climbs on the rig in the past three nights...going up the mountain to check out the wildfires in the distance. Wow is this rig fun.

Dirty but none the worse for wear. Tire lugs are down to half depth or less and really hooking up.



Sway bar setup is doing well. Love the performance advantages.



Pumpkin belly getting thin, grease coming out.



Trailing arms not new any more.



Time for PM tonight.

J

[rob_b]

Incorporating a hex could be bitchin.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#3246a22/=rzysm1
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5c-collets/=rzytj0


Edit: FYI, my screwed on berg tube were rock solid. I used 3/8"-24 and green loctite.

[SkaldidDog]

That's a cool idea! Thanks holmz.

[twissted]

Wow I thought My 1/5 scale Short course truck was a lot of work! But yours has me beat! I guess a ground up design pays off in the end. I do brake a lot of parts, as it is apart of the hobby. You have great skill and really shows in this build. I spent of a hour reading this build and it was worth it. Thanks.

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by twissted

Wow I thought My 1/5 scale Short course truck was a lot of work! But yours has me beat! I guess a ground up design pays off in the end. I do brake a lot of parts, as it is apart of the hobby. You have great skill and really shows in this build. I spent of a hour reading this build and it was worth it. Thanks.

I appreciate your kind words Twissted. It is a fun build and just as fun to drive.

Cheers,

J

[Crucial]

I'd like to solve my torque twist problem, how's that sway bar do? I don't wanna loose any articulation, does it affect that?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by Crucial

I'd like to solve my torque twist problem, how's that sway bar do? I don't wanna loose any articulation, does it affect that?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

The sway bar solved my twist problem. The rig rides a lot more flat and puts the power down better. Crawls better too as there is load on the tires earlier in articulation. Articulation is less but who cares if it performs better across the board. It lands soft and fluffy off of jumps, assisted by the new softer foams.

Hope this helps. Get a sway bar, DLux sells them.

J

[tacocat]

This is the third time ive read this thread start to finish haha your work is badass. This build has pretty much inspired me to go to school for machining when i get out of the military in 6 months.