SkaldidDog's "Buck-Nasty" Wraith

[SkaldidDog]

[QUOTE=sic1to;4922481]

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

Got one. Weighs a ton. It's collecting dust...in a drawer. Revo unit is less than half the weight, half the cost, overkill strong and a lot more quiet with some fail built in. Should have never bought the RRP unit.

Got two as of now sittin aside goin to be for sale 54t & 56t rr slipper units!!!
Too loud & eats pinions plus need a fuse link already broke 2 female mip'sspur is cheaper!

Pic shows boat anchor & SS top shaft,which locked up rc shaft has equal beef!!!

That's the anchor in question. I also use the aluminum slipper pads for extra bite on the disk...for now. Gotta make a slipper lockout.

J

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

Not the best photo but you can see I lathed the slipper plate fins almost to nothing. I need to toss all of this and make a locked unit too.

Upping to 16/56 added much zip. Much fun.

J

Axial AX30197 locked topshaft is what I used for my SCX, will you start with that or make your own from scratch?

http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax30197

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Axial AX30197 locked topshaft is what I used for my SCX, will you start with that or make your own from scratch?

Axial Racing - Drive gear Shaft 5x43.5

You know me. I'll use the existing SS top shaft and make a plate that rides the pin/shaft that also has threaded holes to accept the three screws from the spur that would normally mount to the clutch pad(s) holder.

[rob_b]

A real man would start with 2" 7075 bar stock!

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by rob_b

A real man would start with 2" 7075 bar stock!

Quite correct my friend.

J

[SkaldidDog]

It's always annoyed me slightly that my SLW's outer bead don't hold my VooDoo U4's as snugly as I'd like. The inner beadlocks never see the lateral stress that the outers do so they are not a problem. So, I spun off 0.010" on the outer attachment surface to increase the bite the beadlock has on the tire. After a many mile jaunt all is well in the Land of Canaan.




Man this rig is a blast. I feel sorry for the tires...sorta.
J

[SDheavymetal]

Joel do you run the same gears front and rear? Or under drive the rear?

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by SDheavymetal

Joel do you run the same gears front and rear? Or under drive the rear?

Same gearing on both ends...low gear.

[SkaldidDog]

Finally got to deleting my Revo slipper and upgrading my Super Shafty top shaft. Made the spur lockout out of 7075 and the top shaft out of G5 Ti with monster M6 threads just for coolness. Overall weight savings was ~20g. Shortened the motor plate spacers by 0.095".

















Backup motor for tomorrow.



Glory dirt testing.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by rob_b

A real man would start with 2" 7075 bar stock!

I have it on my Unimog now, we will see how well it holds up to weight.

[SkaldidDog]

Guess my 1.5" stock falls just shy of manhood.

[rob_b]

Holy overkill Joel, I like! Man I was starting to think that you lost the keys to your garage

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by rob_b

Holy overkill Joel, I like! Man I was starting to think that you lost the keys to your garage

I had some serious manual labor to put in over the holiday. It felt good to crank out some functional bling. I was worried that a 7075 shaft would fail so I went with Ti. I could be dead wrong.

Gotta sort out some electrical bugs now. ESC switches from sensors to sensor less after it warms up. Motor and sensor wire were not the problem.

J

[SDheavymetal]

Nice work again Joel.

House work can be draining.

[SkaldidDog]

Originally Posted by SDheavymetal

House work can be draining.

[SkaldidDog]

Finally a new brain.



Man I hope this and the new motor solves my glitching problem.

J

[SkaldidDog]

Well that new brain was a pain. Turns out that it had a bad component on the board. After much troubleshooting I eliminated all other possibilities and they quick shipped me a new, new one. One thing I did (re)learn was that cooling is king. My previous MMP was fan-less. Fan died and I chopped it off. I became very familiar with how far a given battery could go under specific driving conditions. With this new-new ESC, I left the fan on. Yes it makes noise, but the drive time is significantly improved per pack. I'll never run a MMP without a functioning fan again. All of this harps back to my comp crawler and the need to cool my ESCs for optimum conversion of volts and amps into wheel-speed.

Quick mod: after snapping the head off of a motor screw and causing much work, I decided to use only socket cap screws (SCS) for motor attachment. There is a lot more beef around the base of the driver hole in a standard SCS than a big, flat cap traditional motor screw. The driver hole is deeper in a SCS than the traditional screw as well. But I need that big, flat cap...of 0.325" 7075.







This should hold up.

J

[Szczerba]

Making an awesome rig better.

What voltage battery you run?

[SkaldidDog]

12.6 (3S MaxAmps 3300 150C). 16/56 gearing with under-drive (13/43?) in both ends.

[o0wiz0o]

All my Axial rigs have come with socket cap screws (SCS) for the motor attachment. I guess Axial agrees with you.