Scale Wraith KOT style

[crazy81]

That hydro set up let alone the 1.55 set up is WOW! Awesome job!!!!

[BadWagon]

Very cool hydro system.

What's your opinion of the stubby bumper and winch on the wraith? I've been considering that very direction.

[T I N Y]

Does it self center?

[clubby_you]

how strong is it ? you don't seem to get much steering angle ?

[ThomasR]

Originally Posted by BadWagon

Very cool hydro system.

What's your opinion of the stubby bumper and winch on the wraith? I've been considering that very direction.

Do you mean my solution? Wel, I find it perfect. Although I have not yet field testet if it is strong enough.

Originally Posted by T I N Y

Does it self center?

Nope. Just as a real car does not either. It is now really scale by all means

Originally Posted by clubby_you

how strong is it ? you don't seem to get much steering angle ?

Well Leimbach said it is about 3kg pushing. So I'll see if it is enough. If not, I will have two special zylinder (shorter by 5mm to fit left and right) made thos will then have together 6kg pushing. Well, steering angle ist just as same as stock Ballistik axles with servo setup.

Today I can presend some minor progress. I made a rear bottom plate with mounting of the hydro pump and filter. After some experiments with different materials, I have chosen 0,8mm steel plate. Easy to work with and best heat absorbing. Because the pump will become quite hot when running. Have to recut the metal sheet at the shock section and a storage compartment will be made either of steel or styrene.

[JasonInAugusta]

I built a hydro steer rig in 2004 with two cylinders per axle because the cylinders are stronger when extending than retracting. With two per axle I had a constant force in both directions.

I used all Leimbach stuff as well.

If you need help to get it to work properly let me know. There's a really simple way to locate your mounting point (at the axle) for the hydro cylinder. Just get a compass, turn the knuckle in one direction, measure the eye to eye of the cylinder (either fully retracted or fully extended) for that direction, and set your compass to that measurement. Swing an arc on your mounting material at the axle. Repeat the process for the other direction. Where the two arcs intersect is THE point to mount your cylinder. That will give full steering with full cylinder movement. Basically setting EPA for the cylinder.

Also, keep an eye on that clear cap/window for the reservoir. I had two of those crack on my rig and the res was well protected by the cage. I think temperature played a role in the cracking.

Also, Ric Murphy at gardentrucking.com (for those of us in the US) can hook you up with a return-to-center setup for your rig if you want it. Down side is that you'll only have full left/right, not proportional control.

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by ThomasR

Nope. Just as a real car does not either. It is now really scale by all means

My hydros self center on my 1:1.In fact all of my buddies do too. I know a cars doesn't but your setup isn't like a cars. Not even close. It's more like hydro steering. That's why I was wondering if is self centered.

[ThomasR]

Originally Posted by T I N Y

My hydros self center on my 1:1.In fact all of my buddies do too. I know a cars doesn't but your setup isn't like a cars. Not even close. It's more like hydro steering. That's why I was wondering if is self centered.

Okay. But real cars only self center when driving, not while standing. Rc cars self center also while standing (servo). But basically you are right, no self centering in the Wraith. It is theoretically possible, but not nesessary for a slow crawler.

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by ThomasR

Okay. But real cars only self center when driving, not while standing. Rc cars self center also while standing (servo). But basically you are right, no self centering in the Wraith. It is theoretically possible, but not nesessary for a slow crawler.

Got ya....Your going to be going slow so no need for it....Maybe after you run it awhile you might give it a shot. I know before mine on my 1:1 did it drove me crazy constantly turning the wheel.....lol

[gbean]

Following.
Very interesting.

[ThomasR]

Originally Posted by T I N Y

Got ya....Your going to be going slow so no need for it....Maybe after you run it awhile you might give it a shot. I know before mine on my 1:1 did it drove me crazy constantly turning the wheel.....lol

Lol.... I can imagine. Problem is really the endpoints. There is no way to tell the hydro-system the actual position of the piston. For wheel loaders with articulated steering cor instance, Leimbach does have electronic to center steer. We'll see.

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by ThomasR

Lol.... I can imagine. Problem is really the endpoints. There is no way to tell the hydro-system the actual position of the piston. For wheel loaders with articulated steering cor instance, Leimbach does have electronic to center steer. We'll see.

Ours is ran be a computer type box.It has sensors inside the tube letting it know where the piston is at. But then again I'm talking about a 6,500 setup too......lol

[ThomasR]

Just a little progress. Some styrene work. I started the hydro-set compartment. Will be alot more work still. Also next step is to cut the rear floor and attache the winch and fairlead and start the rear storage compartment.

















naked

[ThomasR]

Today I was cutting the rear floor to match the shape of the rear compartment and make space for the shocks.

Just a raw cut.


After little afterwork and filing and grinding.


Fairlead for rear winch fit into rear section.




Now started with the styrenework for the rear compartment. Hope I can post some progress soon.

[crawler nut]

Looks pretty sweet. Can't wait to see what it looks like finished.

[puddin]

The hydro steering is a awesome idea. This is one of my favorite builds. I can't wait to see what else is store.

[ThomasR]

Thanks all for your positive comments. That cheers me really up!

[ThomasR]

Spent another some hours to modify the cockpit and to start the front compartment for the battery and the electronic parts. First felt like 237 times measuring and crosschecking if everything will fit as I planned. The compartment must be removeable by taking away just the three front crossmembers in one piece. First start with the base. Drawing, cutting, sanding until it fits. Made a small bend to have a nice angle towarts the nose.


Snug fit as planned.


Measured the max. hight and then cut the side walls.


Firewall installed. Will modified further.

Sidewalls glued together.


The whole box is fastened by 4 screws. I use the stock mounting points where the radio box holder is in place usually. This makes the whole construction very stiff and can take quite a load.






Cutting down the sidewalls and cut out for the crossmembers.


Also make place for the front part with the lights. Fits all perfect.


Fully compressed. Enough space to the bottom.

With the side panels.

Next I will make a battery holder and a cable duct under the battery into the cockpit and for hydraulic system and for all lighting. Also the box will be closed from all sides and final grinding for smoother look. Will be painted black. Also I decided to use the stock hood instead of the aluminum one. Doesn't like the angled look.

[TheScaleAddict]

Absolutely stellar work. Good Job!

[ThomasR]

Yesterday I've made some little progress.

- battery holder and cable duct
- firewall
- cockpit reinforcement and tranny tunnel

This is the baddery holder which also acts as a cable duct




Cut some small parts to fill the gap


Test fit - perfect.


Draw contures of the battery and cut them out and glue them in.




Reinforcement of the firewall to stand the heavy battery. The angled cross members also support the tranny tunnel.




The footwell area which closes the nasty gaps to the fire wall. Also gives more stiffness to the tranny tunnel.




Today I cut the floor plate rear section to fit the shape of rear compartment. Some additional supportplates and holder for the rear section of the cockpit ware made. Now I will start thinking about electronic components. How and where to install each.

Also at last following steps to do:
- Hoodmodification
- Safty tank which also carry a battery
- painting all the parts
- install all hydraulik and correct lenghts of tubes.
- various scale accessorie
..... and maby much more...