MMP/Pro4 jumpy

[Dfl4000]

Ok, need some help. I am stuck at my camp with very little data to search with. Very frustrating. Now, have my new wraith built, aftermarket everything, mmp pro 4 combo. It wants to crawl slow then jumps real fast and back to slow throttle. Very difficult to control when climbing. I have tried many different adjustments on the mmp but the jump is always there. Never changes. I am finding some really cool settings and curves but nothing changes it. I have checked the sensor wire and seems to be in all the way. I have to be missing something, just not sure. I built another wraith exactly the same way a few weeks ago and does not jump, crawls perfect. Any help would be awesome. Assuming I get data service.

[vicstag]

Sounds like a muffler bearing is bad test the flux capacitor for continuity

[johnnyh66]

The sensor wire may be broken, I've gone through several... They are really fragile.
Does it make an electronic noise when you give it throttle?

[DrewHammer]

Try changing 2 wires of the motor around to change rotation of the motor and set the correct rotation in your programmer/castle link and see if this corrects it. Sensored motors are sensititve to rotation commanded vs. actual direction of rotation. If this doesn't work try running it unsensored.

[Dfl4000]

Well, it seems to cog a little at very slow speed but as far as noise all I really hear is the motor and steel gears and fan. Maybe I do have a bad sensor wire. Can I just buy the wire? Where would I get one? It runs good except for the jump. I can bash all I want but I want to crawl. T

[Dfl4000]

I didn't even think to try non sensored. I will try that first. As far as wiring, it is abc. Which two wires would I swap?

[DrewHammer]

Originally Posted by Dfl4000

I didn't even think to try non sensored. I will try that first. As far as wiring, it is abc. Which two wires would I swap?

Just as an example, if its clockwise rotation wired A to A, B to B, and C to C, then changing it to A to B, B to A and leaving C to C will change it to counter clockwise, which may be the way the esc expects to see the motor rotate. Then you will correct the rotation of the motor in the ESC itself. An ESC can tell if a motor is rotating clockwise or counterclockwise and is unhappy if it expects to see one and sees the other.

[Dfl4000]

Ok, I think I got it. I will try that tomorrow. Thanks a lot, I appreciate the help. One more little question though. Where on the castle link program is the rotation setting? I don't remember seeing it anywhere. I am using a 10 year old laptop that is extremely slow to respond. This is the only thing I use it for lol! Thanks again.

[DrewHammer]

You're welcome, I hope this helps out.

I believe the rotation direction is under the motor basic tab, possibly under the advanced. I haven't been in CastleLink in a few days and don't have access to it right now to confirm.

[Dfl4000]

Great, thanks Drew, really appreciate it. I am very new to brushless. There is definitely a learning curve. I'll get it someday.

[DrewHammer]

You're welcome. Like I stated, I hope this clears up your issue. It's hard to tell without seeing it in person but it sounds like it might fix up your problem. The learning curve is a bit interesting in this hobby, I'm just fortunate enough to spend the majority of my career working with industrial controls of induction motors and servos that are essentially 100% the same as rc brushless setups, just much higher power. Now if someone would just come out with an ESC that had more controlability I'd be super happy, but as of right now the esc's I've gotten my hands on have about 1/3 of the control options that industrial servo drives (brushless motor with rotation sensor) offer.

[evan03]

Playing with start power settings might clean the bottom end up.

I've found more power on spool up is usually smoother but not always.

Also going off castle air flight controls. Don't even know if start powers adjustable on yours

[Dfl4000]

Thanks guys, appreciate it. I am firing up my ancient pc now to check it out. I am a machinist by trade so building and custom is where I know best. But, I will learn brushless and tuning as I roll on.

[Dfl4000]

Well, switching the wires and reversing rotation was no good. Very jumpy and the wire connectors go hot within 1 minute. So I want to try sensorless but I can't find it on castle link. It's either brushed or smart sense or sensored only. Do I just put it on brushed? I am just trying to figure if it's the sensor wire. Maybe check the wire with a meter? I figured that is why they go bad, just fragile.

[benoj]

You want smart sense. That setting will run it sensorless unless it detects a sensor wire hooked up


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[Dfl4000]

Ok, so just unhook the sensor wire, got it. I checked the wire and all are good continuity. So far nothing changes it. Maybe my radio? I have a 4pl. Don't know why it would be that though. Sometimes after it jumps, it will stall and nothing happens until you move the trigger. But mostly just jumps at a certain point of acceleration. Doesn't seem rpm related but very consistently jumpy. Very strange.

[TheAxialNut]

rebind rx to tx.....

recal the esc to the 4pl

[Dfl4000]

Good idea, I will try that next. As a matter of fact, I do not recall binding the esc. Almost like it was already linked. I had to bind the first one I built but when I went to bind this one, it launched off my bench and into my face! I am going to try to rebind it tomorrow. Although I am not sure how to redo it. Just pull the trigger and plug it in? I think that is when it punched me in the face!

[johnnyh66]

It still sounds like a bad sensor wire to me. Maybe take the one from your other bl combo and try it out... or, if you don't want to risk damaging that one, order a new one... they are really cheap.

[Dfl4000]

Well, rebinding did not do it. I am guessing /hoping that it is a bad sensor wire. I can't change it with the other one I built because that one was for a friend. I am going to order some new ones, I wanted a longer one anyway. Man, that sounded bad...