Wraith Kit - 1st build - what would you upgrade from the gate?

[IPT]

I am new to RC but have decided to build a Wraith. I plan to use a MMP ESC. Undecided on the motor yet, but I plan to go Brushless (thinking hobbywing 3656sd 3400kv). I know I need a good servo (what would you choose?).

I read Harley's bombproof thread. A TON of info but the bullets were from 2 years ago. As of today, if you were building one what would be the must have upgrades from the get-go? My plan really is to upgrade as it breaks, if it breaks - but I don't mind addressing a real weak link or two before I even get started. I plan to crawl, but also would like a little speed for low level bashing. For serious bashing I have a Stampede.

I'm really excited about this. Crazy it's hard to even find one in stock now so I can start with buying a few "parts" instead. The "lockers" intrigue me, but it doesn't have them stock??

[allanon1965]

the stock lockers are sloppy but still usable, the first upgrade out of the box should be the servo, followed by the steering linkage. as you are going brushless, change the spur gear to a 32 pitch setup, 56t spur and a 11t pinion and see how it goes from there..then upgrade as things break..

[87yota]

Upgrade all your links for suspension and chubs knuckles and rear lockouts w vanquish or blue monkey Rc ... And also ditch stock axle shafts w axial cv's.... Pretty much swap all moving plastic parts w aluminum...lol,,,, if I had to do it all over again I wouldn't buy the kit just buy the chassis and build your own suspension and drivetrain ... Axial really could've done a little better with their choice of parts when they made the wraith...

[Cmarcan167]

The hobbywing 3400kv is a beast. Upgrade transmission parts and get the RRP slash slipper. I have mine geared for crawling and trail running at 56/11.

[OhioSuperSport]

I would suggest a machine thread screw kit. Tonys screws has an awesome kit.

[DrDiff952]

This is not a part suggestion, but get your sel a GOOD set of hardened tip allen drivers every screw on the wraith is a allen head and the cheep wrenches love to destroy the 1.5 mm cap head screws!

Another suggestion is a set of true bead lock rims. Even is you have a poison spider, replace those rims!

[Calderwood]

My 3656sd has required: 32p spur/pinion, steel transmission gears, MIP shafts (it laughed at junfacs), HD ring and pinions (I run od/ud), lockers, wheels, and it doesn't treat shafts well either. You will need aluminum Cs and knuckles at a minimum and upgrading the links will keep things straight.

[Wilson]

I would change the servo, draglink, steeringlink, gearbox gears and under driv the real axle or overdrive the front.

[DrDiff952]

I used a Savöx 1231SG. But anything over 400 ounce inches of torque at 6 volts. I have a Castle Creation 10 amp BEC and it feeds my servo 7.2 volts.

You need a separate BEC!

[Nemo]

Originally Posted by DrDiff952

I used a Savöx 1231SG. But anything over 400 ounce inches of torque at 6 volts. I have a Castle Creation 10 amp BEC and it feeds my servo 7.2 volts.

You need a separate BEC!

yeah this servo forsure and same bec with aluminum strc or vanquish steering arms with aluminum chubs and knuckles would be my first upgrade along with lowering it a little by flipping the shock mounts. or going with Traxxas Big bore shocks and soft white losi springs.

[IPT]

looks like the steering, chubs and knuckles take top honors. Next Tranny and probably lockers. That servo looks good, thanks for the info. Was there something I read about a specific way to mount it differently or protect it somehow? I've been reading so much lately some of it has blurred together.

[Jus]

Originally Posted by IPT

looks like the steering, chubs and knuckles take top honors. Next Tranny and probably lockers. That servo looks good, thanks for the info. Was there something I read about a specific way to mount it differently or protect it somehow? I've been reading so much lately some of it has blurred together.

To start off with, I would go with steel tranny gears, a good servo, machine thread screws on chubs, knuckles, and rear lockouts, and aluminum/steel suspension and steering links. From there, I'd just drive it and then figure out what it needs from YOUR driving style and terrain. Unless you just want to throw money at it. In that case, go crazy with it.

Opinions are just that, but I have found that aluminum chubs and knuckles are completely unnecessary unless you're really going to beat on it. I drove mine for over a year on 3s with 5.75" tires and they held up just fine. It's a nice upgrade to have but for a lot of people it's completely overkill.

[Odd-M]

I would basically do the same thing I've done my self:
1. 35t brushed on 3S
2. A strong servo, such as Hitec 7954SH
3. Steering links
4. Toss the shitty dampers and mount Traxxas Bigbores or other goodies
5. Lower it, either shorter shocks or droop kit
6. Hinged hood and battery up front
7. Beadlocks with some weight up front
8. Drive

[Ohioskills]

dont waste ur money on savox an hitech go with this its solar d772 great servo

Solar Servo D772 High Voltage 0.17sec@7.4v 64g Digital Metal Gear

[Nemo]

yeah my stock tranny gears stripped pretty quickly... i would definatly replace them with a metal alternative. the stock motor also will burn out from crawling so i would go for a high torque motor if you want to crawl or trail ride. those two upgrades were the first two things to break on my wraith

[IPT]

Originally Posted by Ohioskills

dont waste ur money on savox an hitech go with this its solar d772 great servo

Solar Servo D772 High Voltage 0.17sec@7.4v 64g Digital Metal Gear

Originally Posted by Odd-M

I would basically do the same thing I've done my self:
2. A strong servo, such as Hitec 7954SH

Originally Posted by DrDiff952

I used a Savöx 1231SG.

So HUGE price difference between the first servo and the other two. I will not be doing competitions so wonder if my $50 is better spent elsewhere vs getting the crem de la crem? Is the first one a few steps up from stock (like the RTR) or would I really just be setting myself up for a rapid breakdown?

Originally Posted by Jus

To start off with, I would go with steel tranny gears

Where can I find these? Excuse my newbie lack of knowledge, but would the "spur" gear be a part of this? Apparently 32 pitch is the way to go and and a gearing of 56/13 (is the 56T Spur and 13T pinion?) is a good place for well rounded performance?

Man, I wish I had the kit already so i could tear into it and see what was what. Waiting to hear from the LHS if they have one buried somewhere. Online is going to be a while from what I am seeing.

Oh, and thanks for helping a newbie out!!

[Odd-M]

A weak servo will not last in these rigs. I can't tell if more expensive servos are worth it, but it sure doesn't hurt any. Hitec is highly reputed. Savox is also very good. Futaba has great alternatives, but even more expensive. Don't know much about Solar other than what I've read on this forum, some recommend them because of their price.

Spur gear is placed outside on top of the tranny, driven by the pinion gear on the motor. 32 pitch is not needed on brushed motors in my opinion. I run stock plastic tranny gears without issues, but again with a brushed motor.

If I ever go brushless I would replace the following:
1. Tranny gears to steel gears. Robinson Racing
2. Pinion and spur to 32 pitch. Robinson Racing
3. Bevel gears to steel gears. Axial hardened
4. Drive shafts to splined steel. MIP.

It suddenly becomes a lot more expensive than just a slightly more expensive motor/esc, so I've not made the move yet. Brushed works for me and will also do better in water if you run in such situations.

[Jus]

Hot Racing Axial SCX10 AX10 Wraith hard steel center gears set

I run those in all my Axial trucks. Unfortunately RPP is out right now.. I'm sure they could be found elsewhere.

I like to stick to plastic spur gears. Whether 32p or stock 48p. Most that run brushless tend to use 32p gears.

I'd also like to chime in on the servo. I've found that 400oz is a minimum for the Wraith. I do a lot of crawling with mine though. I've got a Hitec 7950 and absolutely love it. You'd definitely need an external BEC but you should use one no matter what servo you use.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Odd-M

Brushed works for me and will also do better in water if you run in such situations.

I strongly disagree. While its true that you can use a brushes motor in the water and mud the comm and brushes take a beating. A brushless motor doesn't have these issues making them far superior in the water and mud. Mine get completely submerged regularly with virtually zero maintenance.

[Odd-M]

I guess you've done some "waterproofing" on the sensor thingy then?